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tangomegadeath
25-10-2007, 15:28
Please note the title.
Fluff Nazis please look away now as I can't be bothered to go the whole hog right now!!

Anyway, after recently rediscovering this joyous hobby I've decided to throw together a force of Salamanders.

Not just any Salamanders...

THE WHOLE OF THE FIREDRAKES!!!

Oh, and preheresy.

So, armed with greenstuff (which I've never used) and a shed load of Terminators (which i've never owned before) I set to work.

This is what I've come up with:

(very WIP and I apologise in advance for the poor picture quality)

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff225/tangomegadeath/sali1.jpg
The main feature I want to get across here is the scaled loin cloth. Firedrake veterans are supposed to kill a Firedrake Salamander as part of their initiation.
I thought I could represent this with the scaled cloth. I'm considering adding more scales over the rest of the model. I know the crux-terminus wouldn't have been there pre-heresy, I just haven't cut it off yet.

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff225/tangomegadeath/sali2-1.jpg
I'm still looking at ways to do the shoulder armour but these two pics are probably as good as I'm going to get. I need to lightly sand them when the green stuff has cured fully.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff225/tangomegadeath/sail3-1.jpg

So, what do you think???

Any and all comments, critisism and advise are more than welcome.

Thanks

Dave Megadeath.

Light of the Emperor
25-10-2007, 16:25
It's a really good start!

You can add some leather strapping hanging down from the top shoulder armor which will disguise the newer shoulder pad armor a bit more.
I like the scales on the tabbard. It's a good way to incorporate the fluff. It seems you have a handle on greenstuff so you could maybe sculpt a drake head mounted on the squad leaders shoulder pad. A fantasy dragon head could work too.

Don't forget to drill out the bolter and get rid of moldlines!

Mrlemonjelly
25-10-2007, 22:29
That looks pretty damn cool.

Esinhorn
25-10-2007, 23:01
Wow Pre-Heresy Salies great.
Like someone said add the leather straps coming off the shoulders.
The loincloth is aces.

tangomegadeath
26-10-2007, 15:17
Thanks for your feedback peeps!

The leather straps could be a winner - I'll have to try that out soon.
As for sculpting a whole drake head, mmm. It would look great but I'm not sure I'm up to it.

I've cleaned the mould lines and drilled the barrels.
I've also added a pre-heresy(ish) head but I'm not too sure about the look of it. The 'holes' seem a bit pants.

Upto date pics: (again apologies for the pic quality):

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff225/tangomegadeath/sali6.jpg

The apparent mouldlines aren't actually there - for some reason my camera added them.

Anyway this is just a throwawayable test model - I've got 59 terminators and 7 dreads in the shed!!!

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff225/tangomegadeath/sali7.jpg

Rabid Bunny 666
26-10-2007, 15:53
Thats bloody good for your first attempt at greenstuff.

crandall87
26-10-2007, 16:08
59 Termis and 7 Dreads in your shed? Nice. If they all look like this guy you will have one sweet looking army.

Dragonlover
26-10-2007, 18:13
How did you do the loincloth? I'm looking to do something similar but haven't really worked out a method for it.

Dragonlover

tangomegadeath
27-10-2007, 19:26
Wow, thanks for the posative feedback.

Sadly no update on the termi yet - decorating comes first!!
I hope to have made further progress soon and I've got 2 weeks off work very soon!

Handy, with E-Bay purchases being delivered soon (another 30 Terms and 4 dreads).:D

I find that green-stuff isn't too bad to work with - you just need to know what shape you want in advance - ie the curve of the shoulder guards.

As for making the scales, I found the easiest way was to press a blob of GS to about 1/2mm thickness and cut out some squares roughly 2-3mm square. These were then randomly hacked at to produce pent or hex-agonal (ish) scales).
I think that these are best having a non-uniform look.
I pressed these into a 1mm sheet of GS (with about 1/2mm gap between them) and then, when no longer exceptionally soft (50min) cut to shape and fixed to the model.

Oh, and I've found that a thin layer of Vasoline or similar on tools and work surfaces keeps GS from sticking!

Hope this helps and I'll try to update soon.

Dave K.

Colonel Stagler
28-10-2007, 20:49
you need some leather straps