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cuda1179
10-04-2009, 04:05
I have a VERY extensive 40k collection. As I live in a small town, I have only three opponents (One friend that rarely plays and two 14 year olds with small collections I have been teaching for a while). As a result I have never built a "proper" board.
Now that the other players are getting their collections to a decent size, I am considering making a table and some terrain. What are some good things to have or avoid? I know large hills with sloped sides are rather hard to keep models on.
Has anyone ever tried to add more of a three dimensional feel with towers with catwalks, multi-level parking structures, or tall bridges? I was thining of making a collapsed suspension bridge. Basically wide enough to drive a tank up, but a dead-end.

Finn
10-04-2009, 04:14
Has anyone ever tried to add more of a three dimensional feel with towers with catwalks, multi-level parking structures, or tall bridges?

I would love to do this in the future, and have begun my own modular project, but I suspect it will take me years to finish even one 4x6 table's worth. It seems like a very cool game mechanic, so long as there are ways for assault-y armies to close the distance (the 5th edition vertical distance measurements didn't help here).

Tommygun
10-04-2009, 04:32
Have you seen Litko's Industrial Tower System?

http://www.litkoaero.com/page/LAI/CTGY/ITS

JCOLL
10-04-2009, 04:40
Probably not the best place for this question....I'd head over to the project logs and check out the terrain boards that others have going on. Tons of inspiration there.

EVIL INC
10-04-2009, 04:48
I would get together with the others you play with and come up with a set of different themes. This way, you can mix and match or set up the board with a single theme. This way, you can make it look nice and make for fun scenarios. Would be a good idea to use a comman set of supplies you all pitch in the get and everyone make different parts within each theme.

Craignum2
10-04-2009, 05:00
Have you seen Litko's Industrial Tower System?

http://www.litkoaero.com/page/LAI/CTGY/ITS

Yeah, I also found a company that makes industrial themed tower terrain. See here (http://warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192673)

- C2

Arcadian
10-04-2009, 05:09
um.. same place...

You may consider doing modular two foot by two foot sections, you can even make them two sided.

Bodysnatcher
10-04-2009, 10:34
What sort of board are you aiming for? A dense city type board, or a sparser 'suburban' type board?

Satan
10-04-2009, 10:45
This company has some fantastic options for gaming boards: http://www.ct-scenery.com/
What's you spending limit? Myself I'd probably go for a GW realm of battle board. I've built my own before and think they're a real hassle unless you've got somewhere where you can have a permanent set-up.

InquisitorPalpatine
10-04-2009, 13:31
I have been working on(not very hard mind you) a modular design for a city fight themed board. I've only built a couple of buildings so far, but I've used MDF boards cut into 1' squares (larger buildings could be put on 1'x2' or even 2'x2' boards) to put them on. The idea is that using these buildings on 1' squares that I could use 24 of them to make up a 4'x6' table, or 32 for a 4'x8' table. When doing it this way you have to leave room for the road on the board as well, so building size and position on the board is important. The two I've done so far are designed in a way that they could sit side by side, face each other, or even fit back to back and make what looks like one larger destroyed building. One other plus by building this style of modular board is that if you have the floor room you could set them up on the floor and make it as large as you want for Appoc games, and with the boards you wouldn't have to make them with buildings, you could put any type of terrain you wanted and with some planning they could be moved arround each game so you have a different board each time.

SPYDER68
10-04-2009, 14:22
the GW Buildings and craters are really nice.

Crazy Harborc
10-04-2009, 19:43
Plenty of table building ideas at the Public Library and or "google" it. Full service hobby shops/model railroading shops will likely have several for sale reference magazine/books.

40 plus years of wargaming has taught me and my regular opponents to use multi-tiered hills. Buildings without interior walled rooms, with removeable roofs are a good idea. Cut to shape nature coloured felt to go under trees. Cheap latex house paint (half gallon or gallon sized) works VERY well on styrofoam (paint part of a hill, sprinkle on the flock while the paint is still wet).

The first time is the hardest, it does get easier. Experience is acquired by doing.

gojira316
10-04-2009, 19:51
With Planet Strike coming this summer GW is planning on releasing more buildings. I've heard that they'll be larger than the CoD buildings released a few years ago.

Boss Kopstud
13-04-2009, 13:27
Over the years, I've built a fair number of tables for myself, friends and my old FLGS. I'd recommend starting with fairly basic table, rather than going all out on the "sculpted, modular, bells-n-whistles" kind of thing. They are nice, but I've found that they kind of limit you. If all your hills, craters, water, trenches, etc. are all modeled on already, it limits what you can put where in terms of terrain pieces. It's also kind of daunting fomr a building perspective.
For a basic table, grab a sheet of 4'x8' 3/8" plywood. Make a frame of 2"X6", then screw the plywood on top. Use 2"x6" for the legs screwed into the frame, cut to whatever length you want (@36" is good for standing up gaming). Get some felt from a fabric store in a few different colors (3 yards long, should be about 5-6 feet in width) and your good to go. All in all, as long as you already have the tools (circular saw, electric drill with countersink and screwdriver bits), you are in business at well under $100 USD and maybe 2-3 hours work.

edward3h
13-04-2009, 13:51
Keep it simple, especially the first time. Think about where it's going to be stored, and how hard-wearing it needs to be. Our games club has tables and terrain that are used by a lot of different people, and it gets a battering, so the best pieces are pretty solid.

Bunnahabhain
13-04-2009, 14:22
How much space do you have?

Size:
I'd suggest 6x4 tables, as they a reasonable size, and if you want bigger than that, you can easily put them side by side for 8/12 x6. If you start with 8x4, then you end up with 8x8 or 12 x8 tables when put together , which are impossible to reach into the middle of...

you can either do boards, which go on trestles , or build fixed tables if you have the space.

Terrain.
Don't model any into or onto the table, it will limit you. Instead, invest in a few sheets of fabric, for snow, desert, grassland and city type tables.

Then build modular terrain, as it's much more useful. If you want trenchworks or such like, try large, single height hills with the trenches cut into them. Polystyrene sheet insulation glued to some thin board for strength, and carved out works best for this, as most other large hills end up weighing a ton...

In fact almost, all terrain is better on thin board: 6mm or 1/4" ply/mdf is cheap and sturdy, and it means your terrain looks better, and lasts much longer.

Raven1
13-04-2009, 14:38
On thing I've learned from experience and watching blogs on websites like warseer is KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). Since it will be your first table, keep it simple. No fancy smacy crap or it will probably never be finished. GW makes some good stuff, and as do other companies, and often at a fraction of the price. As for GW since this is a 40K website I will plug their stuff

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat390003&rootCatGameStyle=wh40k

its a link to their scenery section. If you wanted to go a bit further you can make rivers or death lava, there is lots of products that make water, but solidify clear for you to paint how you wish. If you wanted a city there is also road like stuff similar to the fake water.

oh yeah about the hills, yes a straight angle is hard to keep models on, that;s why you layer hilss and the like.


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Like that so the effect exists and you can put models on it