View Full Version : Phale's Krieggers:: A DKoK plog :D

26-08-2010, 10:22
Hi, I'm Dan, or call me Phale,

Been lurking these forums a while as I have rediscovered my Gamesworkshop hobby addiction through the awesome power of the forgeworld. After about 4 years on hiatus, the DKoK models looked too good to pass by, and the army's tactical feel is something I was drawn too instantly when reading the forgeworld rules... hope they'll hold up when I try to play. oh god, so much artillery support... INCOMING!!!!!!!

Always played guard, and then modified my army to fit into a Lost and Damned army. Basically enough guardsman fragmeat to be able to then field the rest of an army as chaos marines and imperial armor.

But now these krieg look and feel so increadible, imho a pure infantry/artillary army is the way to go. why waste points on wheels when my big gun can hit everything on the board sitting still??? :D

So after some lurking and research, I decided to go with a scheme as close as possible to the book art for the DKoK; that kind of German field grey overcoat with gunmetal plating. I think the models suit the whole "western front" kind of muddy, earthy look that comes with life in the trenches; and full respect to the men who fought in those kinds of conditions during the world wars. grueling...

So after much stalling, and now for further waiting as overseas orders come through, I present my take on DKoK.

Hope you enjoy this thread, and hope it keeps me accountable to these incredible models. kudos forgeworld, kudos:




ps: I don't know if the links will work; heres to hoping.

26-08-2010, 14:49
Intersting idea using the rust effect on them, it has been well executed and looks good on the models. I really like the blue/grey of the uniforms aswell.


26-08-2010, 15:52
Loving the rust, these guys look like they've gone through a lot!
bases are look great also

keep 'em coming

Brother Captain Lucian
26-08-2010, 18:29
Looks very good! Only think i would say: is that i think the rust is abit overdone, but thats just personal taste i guess :)

26-08-2010, 18:33
I like them. I think the rust effect will come down a lot once you hit it with some matte varnish.

Brother Alexos
26-08-2010, 23:08
Dkok hmm? I like the way you modeled the bolter, how do you do your rust?

27-08-2010, 13:28
Haha a lot of feedback on the rust; I love it, thanks. Keep it coming :D

thanks. I tried to find the right mixes for a pallete as close to the artwork as possible.


Odly enough its actually a dull green mix. I love how the eye works on subtle grey tones.

Cheers, its a hard balance to try get all their detail to show and still give them a battered feel. And thanks about the bases; its a b*tch working with plaster :D

I'll be trying to maintain this thread as more dkok arrive here.

@Brother Captain Lucian:
Appreciate the opinion. I agree, its definitely overboard rust, especially around the wheels. Some of that is also dirt weathering though I've tried to use it in a uniform way as well as to give definition to the army green plating. I'm on a risk here though painting an entire army fully rusted. I'll be sure to review it before the next batch; maybe tone it back a bit.

@Prime Minister Sinister:
matte varnish? :S . is that the purity seal stuff GW sell? i dont think i've ever matte varnished a model hahaha. have to look into it, especially with resin's tendency to chip paint.

@Brother Alexos:
thanks. its actually really easy; a technique I picked up when doing my ogre kingdoms army.
1. paint your surface base coat (or apply the rust directly to finished surface)

2. water down (like, 6:1? Basically brown water on your pallete) some Vermin brown.
-paint only in the crevices.
-try to get it to pool where you want heavy "water damaged" effects. the pigment will settled once dry, but look very dark.

3. water down (slightly less, ~5:1?) some Firey Orange.
-paint over the vermin brown rust, aiming to get most of it in the crevices.
-try leave some brown on the edges

4. if it looks right, your done. if it feels too dull, reapply the firey orange. be careful not to overdo it though; a middle ground feels grungy enough

Hope that helps. I don't think its a huge secret. I picked it up from a white dwarf on ogre kingdoms. used tactically, it can look very effective, such as running it down bolts or rivets, combined with sand + pva to look like corrosion has occurred etc, or over some watered down jade green (or toady's equivilant) for a good tarnished effect.
In the end its all about the orange :D

Again, thanks for the feedback. I'd love more as I add to the thread.

14-09-2010, 16:25
WIP of the base for the heavy bolter team


Updated Heavy bolter team:
Added extra mud to the wheels, coats etc. Updated barded wire with a better version.



hope these links work.

14-09-2010, 17:22
I love this. Well done. Sub'd.


Brother Captain Lucian
14-09-2010, 17:44
Looking goodie, whats the base made of? ;)

15-09-2010, 06:18
Looking goodie, whats the base made of? ;)

they're made from some craft plaster i have lying around I used to use to seal polyfoam scenery. It's easier to get damaged and chipped than say an epoxy, but its a lot cheaper and can give some interesting results, and if you seal it afterwards with a pva coat or ardcoat it holds up pretty well. I was going to do a tute anyway, so I'll run through the process.

You will need:
2 cups of water {1 for washing 1 for painting}
some craft plaster
2 plastic spoons {1 for plaster 1 for water}
some square toothpicks
2 crappy brushes {1 for plaster 1 for painting
mixing container for plaster
GW dark flesh
GW vermin brown
GW flesh wash (idk what the new version is called)
GW graveyard earth
GW kommando khaki
GW devlin mud]
GW ardcoat

firstly prepare some duck boards. Duckboards were used in trenches to give a surafce to move on above the sinking mud. Check WW1 photos for more reference


Snap some square toothpicks to appropriate legnth, leaving tattered egdes.


Next, split these down the middle with a knife to get the thickness down. insert obvious "be careful with your fingers" warning. no seriously, don't let your 6 year old do this without supervision.




the more textured grain the better they'll look down the track.

part 2 inc

15-09-2010, 06:19
Now, prepare some plaster. about half a tablespoon will do 2-3 bases, depending how quickly you work. mix in slightly less than equal parts water, and try get a gluggy consistency. If its too wet, you have to wait for it to get tacky before you can achieve the right texture.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_xbree8tj5bY/TJBZhxTRAeI/AAAAAAAAAFM/ia5Kia1lJxU/s720/DSCN2138.JPG how it looks after 10 bases

The plaster WILL dry pretty quick, so try work fast, but avoid mess. i can get about 3 bases plastered without needing to prepare more plaster. working with smaller amounts aslo lowers wasted plaster. There will be wasted plaster.

this is a little too watery, but i anticipated delays taking the photos.

To apply to a base, use a designated brush that you have little to no emotional attachment. this brush should not see a model again. you'll want to scoop a clump of tacky plaster onto it, and spread it over the base.


Working quickly, dab at the plaster on the base to get the kind of textured look you're after.

While the plaster is still wet, push some of those duck boards into it, keeping to a kind of track direction, like they're in the trenches. Don't overdo it though, 3-4 is enough for standard bases.


To seal the deal, go back over the boards with some extra tacky plaster. In fact, give the whole base another texture attack.


now, you could glue the boards down before applying the plaster, but i found that they feel too static. by pushing them into the plaster, they vary more on depth and level, and really feel like they're sinking into the mud.

Once you're happy with the result, put the base aside to dry.

This is important; it can mean the difference between a headache painting and a walk in the park:

LEAVE TO DRY AT LEAST 24 HOURS. I can't stress enough how annoying painting damp or soft plaster is. Make sure its like a rock before you touch it again.

part 3: painting coming later

15-09-2010, 07:42
Loving the army so far mate, the basing and the weathering effects are spot on for the trench warfare they are supposed to be taking part in, I look forward to more from you.



18-09-2010, 05:02
part 3 - painting prep

after a good day of drying, the plaster can be painted. but first, clean up the edges and scrape off the spilled plaster



prepare the paints you'll need.

need these for the mud part

need these for the wood sections

18-09-2010, 05:10
paint on a heavy layer of dark flesh


once its dry, ink with straight Flesh Wash (or the equivalent)


once the ink is try, lightly drybrush with dark flesh again over the ink


next, lightly drybrush with vermin brown


If during the painting process some plaster chips or comes off with the brush, just dab on some paint over the damage. Once the plaster is sealed over with varnish, it should be a lot stronger.

for the wood, base layer with Graveyard earth, then a[pply a straight brown ink (devlin mud?). once dry, drybrush graveyard earth and highlight drybrush kommando khaki.


finally, throw on an 'ardcoat varnish over the mud and thats a wrap.


19-09-2010, 16:50
Here's some early command squad wip shots. They're almost done.






19-09-2010, 17:00
and some more cmd squad...





I need some ideas for the power sword for the cptn. The plasma pistol glow is orange, but idk how that will go on the sword. Theory would say go a blue, but i'm on the fence on this one. Any thoughts???

And now to watch some of the little nfl we get in australia. 3am to 3pm... best

enjoy, i'll put up more pics later.

Brother Captain Lucian
19-09-2010, 18:07
I always leave my Power Swords as bare metal. Going by the idea that it would run out of power if he kept it on all the time :P

Anyway green or blue washes would work.

Also quite clever to paint them beforde removing them from the sprues :o

19-09-2010, 21:15
Thank you for the tutorial! Will save this for future reference.


Lord Crag
19-09-2010, 23:33
Very nice !~ Thanks for sharing!!

20-09-2010, 04:58
I always leave my Power Swords as bare metal. Going by the idea that it would run out of power if he kept it on all the time :P

Anyway green or blue washes would work.

Also quite clever to paint them beforde removing them from the sprues :o

Thinking last night about it blue would work. as long as the army is consistent, i find simple complementary colors work well.

and i do remove from the sprue and clean all the flash off, but i tack the model back on. However i've had a few model's break their legs when it come to remove, cause they're a bad cast with air bubbles. Never worked with resin before, but damn the detail is worth the effort.

Thank you for the tutorial! Will save this for future reference.



Very nice !~ Thanks for sharing!!

yw :D

I'll put up some (near) finished shots






20-09-2010, 15:30
I've been mulling over dkok forgeworld codex. as a tactic, i'm thinking of putting the comany cmd in a centaur, and giving the BS4 vets a las cannon and 2 plasma guns. my question is will the commander still be able to issue orders? they can for chimeras, but it doesn't say for centaurs. if they can, this would make a really versitile tactic imo, and a better use of a centaur than holding 5 grenaiders...

20-09-2010, 15:41
Good work especially the mud and rust effects!

21-09-2010, 10:48
Nice squad, once again the rust effect looks great. I love the plasma glow, very nice.


21-09-2010, 11:27
Loving you DK mate really nice and gritty :)

Lord Crag
21-09-2010, 11:32
like the muddy bases!~

23-09-2010, 07:47
Those Kriegers look really good! Close to the artwork, nice muddy look, not messy muddy, but well done realistic muddy! I like it.

Thanks a lot for the base-tutorial!

24-09-2010, 16:55
Pic update:

got some of my ebay dkok in, and still more coming. i know why i got them cheap now, but nothing some GS can't fix...


Completed standards for platoons

Current project: I think the running hvy wpns teams from forgeworld have their place, but not in my army. So i'm doing some tweaks of my own. The lascannon team will be "setting up" rather than running.

Hacking apart the platform

The new pose, and a load of GS to fix the wheels... really bad cast

I'll try have some more when i catch a breather.

24-09-2010, 17:15
Nice. I'm still thinking about what I can do with the running heavy weapon team. I think it looks weird to field them running.
I think I'll change the bodies with some kneeling guys from the standard squads.

icecream boy
25-09-2010, 02:34
I love the standard bearer, the orange really stands out (not sure how this goes with the DKoK fluff though, you know bright colours and everything).
The HW squad is a great idea, I think I'll incorporate it into my army somewhere.

18-10-2010, 08:28
Apologies for lack of update, approaching uni crunch time + not much has been done... on the plus side like an idiot i'm buying my next army before i've finished the one i'm building, but i've always had a hard on for 2+ saves (hint hint). And its a suprisingly cheap army to build if you patiently wait for bargins to pop up...

But that aside, DKoK are going slowly. Heres some WIP shots, and a little goodie at the end

Kriegger after base + wash, ready for layering

Side by side of layering stages

updated platoon standards w/ numbers. Everything will be numbered :D

wip banner for... my sercet ;)

Ok, that's if for now. Will be back with a vengeance in about 2 weeks.

icecream boy
19-10-2010, 06:43
Banners look amazing, as does the WIP freehand, a promising start. can;t wait too see what else you get up to, keep us posted.

14-11-2010, 11:55
so been a while since last post, busy with exams and assessments, and a trip planned for december... but heres some DKoK updates.

the 2nd plat. cmd squad is done, totaling 12 DKoK infantry in... about 2 months

yeah I know... slack. on the plus side i've only got about 12 deathwing to paint before 1500 pts is chewed up (plus a couple of LRC :D. but i'll be starting a new plog for that endeavor soon...)

so here's the latest DKoK models, completed and ready to lead their fellow men into battle.


cleaned up grenadier centaur getting deflashed


close up of 2nd plasma gunner. i went with a running body cause the leaning back ones just look.... bad. sry FW, some of the poses are just terrible...


vox op for a pltn cmd. I rotated the wrist as well for the rifle, so he's holding it up like a badass


back view of both vox ops. I like the detail on the vox, so i might do more to them down the track (like the gauges and dials)


finally, completed 1st pltn cmd. sadly the back line is kind of out of focus but i'm happy with how they're turning out.

The rusty grimy feel so far is pretty coherent across the army. can't wait to get some free time and get stuck into the inf. squads and mah deathwing.

i'll try keep up to date as work gets done but next weeks will be crazy. looking foward to the break and following some other plogs. catch

17-11-2010, 16:31
these guys are on hold while i am so infatuated by 2+ saves and in exams... on the plus side it shouldn't take long with < 20 models to an army :D.