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View Full Version : GW Super Glue Thin - Really GW?



Portaljacker
30-05-2011, 00:54
Exhibit A: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1190001a
This is the super glue I just picked up for $8CDN.

Exhibit B: *couldn't find link*
The older super glue they just took out of stock that came in the big child safe pill tube.

Now, comparison: The old one is 28.4g, the new is 5g. For a dollar less you get 18% of the glue?! How is that fair?

Also, the child proofing method no longer seals your glue in a container so I assume it will dry out a bit faster, but not sure on this one. The new child proofing method is a cap that goes over the whole top and you squeeze to remove. Surely no child will think of squeezing hard, never!

Only upside I can think of is the brush, this will help with applying the glue a lot, also the "thin" must refer to the apparent increased viscosity of the glue which would make it easier to brush on.

All in all, it's a ripoff. for less than one fifth the liquid the price was lowered 1 ninth!

AvatarForm
30-05-2011, 11:17
Why are you purchasing glue and hobby supplies from GW?

You can purchase LOCTITE Gel for a small portion of the cost and it works much better (here in AUS).

Nomrana Est
30-05-2011, 11:34
Why are you purchasing glue and hobby supplies from GW?

You can purchase LOCTITE Gel for a small portion of the cost and it works much better (here in AUS).

QFT. The GW superglue is terrible, as is the plastic glue. Quite frankly, some superglues that you get in pound shops are superior to the GW stuff.

Do yourself a favour, get your adhesives somewhere else.

_L_
30-05-2011, 11:36
As avatar mentioned. Glue should never be bought from GW.

PVA glue is over 5!!! I just bought a bottle of PVA from ASAD 4 times the size of GW bottle for 1!!!

Same with superglue, Plastic glue and primer. Never buy from GW it's a total rip-off.

Achaylus72
30-05-2011, 11:41
QFT. The GW superglue is terrible, as is the plastic glue. Quite frankly, some superglues that you get in pound shops are superior to the GW stuff.

Do yourself a favour, get your adhesives somewhere else.

Exactly i buy Humbrol Precision Poly glue for my plastics and i can get a 10 pack of super glue tubes for $2.00 at the local $2.00 shop.

How far does one bottle of Humbrol Precision Poly go we it built all this.

111357

That is 12,000 points of Chaos Space Marines

Poncho160
30-05-2011, 11:44
I quite like GW glue, so far on one pot i have glued over 90 gaunts, 5 big Tyranids, 20 Space Marines, 2 tanks, a Dreadnought and a Warhound Titan. There is still some glue left and nothing has fallen apart yet, even with a few drops and bumps.

Edit: I have just seen Achaylus72 post and if one pot of Humbrol Precision Poly glue can do all that i might have to get some! lol

AvatarForm
30-05-2011, 11:47
Exactly i buy Humbrol Precision Poly glue for my plastics and i can get a 10 pack of super glue tubes for $2.00 at the local $2.00 shop.

How far does one bottle of Humbrol Precision Poly go we it built all this.

111357

That is 12,000 points of Chaos Space Marines

You just saved me Google'ing that... HUMBROL... the grandfather of hobby glues!

Brilliant stuff.

colonel kane trine
30-05-2011, 11:48
I like the gw plastic glue
What alternative undercoat sprays would people suggest? Ive only used the gw one so far

Marauderk
30-05-2011, 11:51
DuplaColor Spray primer it's cheaper and has a much better finish

Korraz
30-05-2011, 11:54
Krylon, if you can get it where you live. Other than that: Army Painter.

Sadly, I can neither get AP, nor Humbrol, nor Gorilla Glue nor any of the other awesome things you people on the other side of the great pond get...

the_corvus
30-05-2011, 11:57
I have never understood how GW choose the glue they stock. Their product is worthless without being glued together and they have never sold good glue.

For plastics I use to have Humbrol glue with a (decent, not like the GW one) brush applicator, then I moved on to Revell glue with a needle style applicator.

I could understand GW glue being the expensive joke it is if it was a side product, but it is essential for using their product.

Achaylus72
30-05-2011, 11:58
Well since that photo as said before i have built.

2 x Chaos Rhinos
8 x Chaos Tactical Combat Squads 80 figures
4 x Khorne Berzerker Squads 48 figures
3 x Chaos Possessed Squads 30 figures
1 x Assault on Black Reach Terminator Squad 10 figures
1 x Chaos Khorne Lord (plastic conversion)
1 x Chaos Khorne Tower of Skulls

I predict i can build a further

5 x Chaos Tactical Combat Squads 50 figures.

It sure goes a long way for one bottle of the stuff, not bad for $6.00

Grimtuff
30-05-2011, 12:01
I swear by Wilko's superglue. It's about the same price as GW's one but you get 20g compared to GW's 5g.

OP: GW have never stocked a superglue like you describe. I've been using the Wilkinson's one for the past several years beacuse of this.

If they did GW would probably charge you about 12-15 for it.... :rolleyes:

Sgt John Keel
30-05-2011, 12:04
Exhibit A: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1190001a
This is the super glue I just picked up for $8CDN.

Exhibit B: *couldn't find link*
The older super glue they just took out of stock that came in the big child safe pill tube.

Now, comparison: The old one is 28.4g, the new is 5g. For a dollar less you get 18% of the glue?! How is that fair?

I can't get the first link to work, but I as far back as I can remember (maybe ten years) the GW super glue has been in those small 5 g bottles, although not always with a brush.

Achaylus72
30-05-2011, 12:16
Ironically some of the staff in my local GW store don't use their own GW brand superglue.

ihavetoomuchminis
30-05-2011, 12:20
Don't use GW super glue ever. It's expensive, and poor quality. Well...i go further.....don't buy any GW tools. THey are expensive.

Hendarion
30-05-2011, 12:29
I like the gw plastic glue
What alternative undercoat sprays would people suggest? Ive only used the gw one so far
Just for the records... GW colour sprays are not primers. I'm using Army Painter. Not cheap, but nice.

Damien 1427
30-05-2011, 12:39
Honestly? The Super Glue isn't that bad. I've not had a problem with it. Their tools are actually pretty good for the money I paid, the saw and craft knife in particular (I've been using various flavours of craft knife over the years, and this is one of the better ones).

Kulgur
30-05-2011, 13:06
In my experience GW's superglue has all the adhesive properties of spit.

Sildani
30-05-2011, 13:07
Yeah, the GW razor saw is one of the best on the market. The paint brushes are also quite nice. But as others have said, for the most part you're better off buying modeling supplies elsewhere. For my part, I use Gorilla super glue, Testors liquid plastic cement, Rustoleum black and white "primer", and an X-Acto hobby knife, along with whichever other tool I liked best at the time - for example, my Squadron double-ended pin vise.

tezdal
30-05-2011, 13:10
... but you to use GW hobby glue(TM) to assemble all Games Workshop models... for the hobby(TM), just wait till they figure out how to detect non-gw glue, then your models will banned from their stores.

BobtheInquisitor
30-05-2011, 18:10
I like the gw plastic glue
What alternative undercoat sprays would people suggest? Ive only used the gw one so far


I also love the GW plastic glue, but... it's exactly the same stuff as the Humbrol poly cement, just in a different bottle. I've had trouble using other plastic glues and plastic cements, but the Humbrol stuff has the same viscosity, cure time and everything. It's the same stuff.

Also, I've gotten some good results from the "Dork Tower" brand of primers (I forget their real name, but they have Dork Tower illustrations on the bottle.) and they are very cheap. You can also pick up cheap automotive primers from Walmart for your metal models.

FabricatorGeneralMike
30-05-2011, 19:58
Never every buy any hobby supplies from GW itself. All of the citadel brand items are repackaged stuff from other companys with the usual GW price increase.

I find the flocking and glues and pin vices and hobby knives and greenstuff especially so over priced it's not even funny.

Try to find a local hobby store, model train stores are great for picking up hobby items. I personally use Zap-A-Gap super glue and humbrol plastic glue with a needle applicator. Sighs, I remember when GW used to sell Zap-A-Gap in there stores....memorys.... =o]

Balerion
30-05-2011, 20:24
I liked their old superglue, but I doubt I'll be buying any of this new type.

The old GW pin vise was one of the best money could buy. The current version looks like crap.

DCLXVI
30-05-2011, 21:29
The old GW pin vise was one of the best money could buy. The current version looks like crap.
I recently bought the new pin vice. I'd lost my 1mm drill bit and needed a new one so I thought, why not, you get some spares with it.
The 1mm bit doesn't even stay in the new drill, no matter how much you tighten it up! Good job I kept hold of my old one!

scarletsquig
30-05-2011, 23:39
If you want a good pin vice, I recommend the one that privateer press sells.

Achaylus72
31-05-2011, 00:05
What i don't understand is why don't GW have several drill bit sizes.

tentfox
31-05-2011, 00:11
Their glue is awful, I have used both their plastic and super glues in the past and all those models are now falling to pieces. Even the plastic glued models!

BobtheInquisitor
31-05-2011, 00:49
Their glue is awful, I have used both their plastic and super glues in the past and all those models are now falling to pieces. Even the plastic glued models!

You must have done something seriously wrong, then. Their plastic "glue" actually melts the plastic parts together into one chunk of plastic. I have plastic models that are 7 or 8 years old that have never even weakened. When I dropped a textbook on my plastic models, none of them broke along the gluing seams, but rather where the plastic was thinnest. Your story just doesn't add up.

tentfox
31-05-2011, 01:23
The models in question are kroot and the arms are falling off. As to what I did, I put the glue on flat arm joint, and put arm on body, held it together for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. 3 years later some arms are falling off, the only thing I can think is going wrong is the plastic glue (GW brand) was rather old (3 to 4 years) at the time.

BobtheInquisitor
31-05-2011, 05:53
The models in question are kroot and the arms are falling off. As to what I did, I put the glue on flat arm joint, and put arm on body, held it together for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. 3 years later some arms are falling off, the only thing I can think is going wrong is the plastic glue (GW brand) was rather old (3 to 4 years) at the time.

That must be it. Usually you don't even have to hold plastic parts together at all with plastic glue. Once you apply the glue, they become tacky enough to stick together, although you can still position them for a while before they harden. If you glue two pieces of plastic together for a few seconds and pull them apart, you should see some melty scars and strings of gooey plastic from where they fused. It sounds like you had a bad batch or something.

Not that I'm telling you to buy their glue or anything, but I do care that people are fair about the quality of their products. GW's plastic glue is very nice and easy to work with...which is why I buy Humbrol poly cement. (It's the same stuff, so far as I can tell, but cheaper.) I've never tried to use a bottle that was 4 years old, though.

SunTzu
31-05-2011, 07:34
I reckon you could wash your hands with GW superglue, if you had a mind to. It simply doesn't stick things together... which means it's barely even "glue", never mind "super".

Zap-a-gap FTW.

AvatarForm
31-05-2011, 07:36
I also love the GW plastic glue, but... it's exactly the same stuff as the Humbrol poly cement, just in a different bottle. I've had trouble using other plastic glues and plastic cements, but the Humbrol stuff has the same viscosity, cure time and everything. It's the same stuff.

As with most hobby products that are branded by common systems, they are simply re-branded and marked up 400%.

Eg. GW "Greenstuff" is simply Kneadatite... a tradesman's 2-part gap filler.

Various woodland scenix and other branded hobby basing supplies are also repackaged and branded everyday, mundane items.

I even saw a $30 packet of broken slate tile sold as ballast, when the same amount can be purchased down at the local hardware store for less than $3. You simply take a hammer to it...

Hobby supplies, once you ID their everyday identity, are extremely cheap to source.

Shadey
31-05-2011, 10:56
If you need further proof of GW's price gouging just look at and compare their hobby supplies. The old 'we have to' excuse wears a little thin.

It's a good thing other companies don't have to pay rent and wages so they can afford to sell things cheap..

I got sick of paying for relatively expensive hobby zap a gap and what not and never getting to finish a bottle before it dried out. I now buy a pack of cheap super glue from the dollar stores, seems to work just as good.

Jedi152
31-05-2011, 11:03
I recently bought the new pin vice. I'd lost my 1mm drill bit and needed a new one so I thought, why not, you get some spares with it.

How much did that set you back? I got 10 1mm drill bits at Screwfix for 1.50.
My pin vice was 5 from Hobbycraft, and it's never let me down.


What alternative undercoat sprays would people suggest? Ive only used the gw one so far
If you're in the UK try Halfords. Their own brand of primers (black, white and grey) are 7.49 for 500ml, a quarter more than GW's 400ml for 8.20. It gives a lovely matt finish too.

IJW
31-05-2011, 11:15
Halfords don't do black primer, they haven't done for some time as apparently there's no call for it. :(

I've been using Plasti-Kote Primer Super from B&Q with decent results.

Jedi152
31-05-2011, 11:16
Really? I'm glad i got my can when i did.

I might have to try the regular black spray and see what that's like.

DCLXVI
31-05-2011, 11:30
How much did that set you back? I got 10 1mm drill bits at Screwfix for 1.50.
My pin vice was 5 from Hobbycraft, and it's never let me down.
I bought it with a load of other stuff from Maelstrom, so probably 6 or 7 quid. Just an impulse thing while I was on their site really - I never normally go for official GW hobby supplies.


Halfords don't do black primer, they haven't done for some time as apparently there's no call for it. :(
I've been using Plasti-Kote Primer Super from B&Q with decent results.
I tend to use the Plasti-Kote primers too, well cheap from Wilkinsons :)

dancingmonkey
31-05-2011, 12:36
Really? I'm glad i got my can when i did.

I might have to try the regular black spray and see what that's like.

I use it, with an after coat of Vallejo black watered down.
Gives a great matt finish, covers well, works perfectly.

Now I know why I can never find the Halfords primer though :(

MajorWesJanson
31-05-2011, 20:56
Loctite superglue for me, gel mostly.

I am thinking of getting the GW razor saw though. That seems worth the price.

mattjgilbert
31-05-2011, 21:32
I use:

Halfords grey primer for undercoating - really good stuff
Zap-a-gap for super glue
Humbrol liquid poly for plastics

If anyone knows the original supplier of the GW static grasses that would be handy. I like the scorched grass and would like to get it for a reasonable price.

xxRavenxx
31-05-2011, 21:40
This (http://the13thfloor.co.uk/resizejpg13th.aspx?path=productimages/12472.jpg&width=200) is a great brand of superglue. Its very thick. Meaning you can stick a nice blob into models, without it running all over.

They also do a spray on accelerant, which I find really useful for two reasons:

1. I'm impatient, and like being able to slap metal models together in under a minute

2. If you break a painted metal, you can spray it on, and it will prevent superglue burn, making the glue dry clear. (I also use it round the ankles of fragile figures on bases)

lanrak
31-05-2011, 22:29
Hi all.
Never buy glue from a GW store its too expencive.
Infact NEVER buy ANY hobby supplies from GW they are too expencive.
Infact dont buy ANYTHING from GWplc.:evilgrin:

I belive they re-pack 'woodland scenic' static grasses and scatter , and sell it for 4X the price.

TTFN

AmKhaibitu
01-06-2011, 03:33
Personally I use a pin vise I picked up from dick smith electronics years ago.
Got my bone saw (as they called it) from Gale Force 9, and damn it's good for a decent price. Even has a wood handle.
Current run of needle files also from gale force 9, as is my scalpel.

Good quality products at a fraction of the price.

Balerion
01-06-2011, 03:40
This (http://the13thfloor.co.uk/resizejpg13th.aspx?path=productimages/12472.jpg&width=200) is a great brand of superglue. Its very thick. Meaning you can stick a nice blob into models, without it running all over.

That bottle looks identical to the previous GW bottle, which makes me think it's probably the same type underneath all the labels.

xxRavenxx
01-06-2011, 04:59
That bottle looks identical to the previous GW bottle, which makes me think it's probably the same type underneath all the labels.

Trust me that its not, on both counts.

The bottle is about double the size of the old GW one. The glue is thick, like syrup.

Malagate
01-06-2011, 06:47
Loctite superglue for me, gel mostly.

I got some of this for free with another tube of the more regular glue, tried to use it again recently and it had all gummed up (tube dissection reveals an amorphous mass of gum like substance thought to be previously superglue). Probably shouldn't have stored it in an attic over winter, but when it worked I rather liked it, thick but smooth.

Right now trying some more liquid loctite which comes with a little brush, seems to suit me better as I make less of a mess. We'll see how it compares to the gel in a week or two.

Bodysnatcher
01-06-2011, 06:51
If anyone knows the original supplier of the GW static grasses that would be handy. I like the scorched grass and would like to get it for a reasonable price.

Buy the scenery basing kit - you get a silly amout of scorched and normal grass as well as a tanker of brown paint.

Stormtrooper Clark
05-06-2011, 21:17
I can't complain about Games Workshop clippers. The pair I'm using now I've had since I started eight years ago. The Super Glue is, however, atrocious and I wish they hadn't swapped to the brushes.

mattjgilbert
05-06-2011, 21:22
Buy the scenery basing kit - you get a silly amout of scorched and normal grass as well as a tanker of brown paint.
Good call, I'll take a look. Thanks.

reddevil18
05-06-2011, 22:17
Im in the UK and havnt really looked for other suppliers, any suggestions?

SunTzu
05-06-2011, 22:24
Zap-a-gap.

Bodysnatcher
06-06-2011, 06:49
Good call, I'll take a look. Thanks.

And the biggest citadel brush in the range too!

johnnyrumour
06-06-2011, 07:27
What i don't understand is why don't GW have several drill bit sizes.

The old silver pin vice did, and it came with four different chuck sizes as well (on was hidden in the top of the handle). It was a great drill, I have 2 and they work brilliantly... although I did pick up a generic 'not quite the Dremel you're looking for' bit/chuck kit from Wilko's (in the UK) a couple of years ago that had about 20 different sizes of drill and a chuck that actually fits the 1mm bit that came with the pin vice. The big GW victorian surgery device that they cann a razor saw is also brilliant!

mattjgilbert
06-06-2011, 10:11
Im in the UK and havnt really looked for other suppliers, any suggestions?
Try and get hold of some zap-a-gap as SunTzu says. A quick web search will find a UK supplier :)

MarcoSkoll
06-06-2011, 12:06
I can't complain about Games Workshop clippers. The pair I'm using now I've had since I started eight years ago.
I'm not very useful then, as the GW clippers on sale now are not the same ones that were on sale eight years ago.

In fact, I don't think any of their tools are - some are still decent, but some are atrocious.

Two things I've regretted buying:

Their recent pin vice - useless. The knurling is too shallow to allow you to tighten the collet properly. The only way I could get it to grip drill bits was by taking two pairs of pliers to it. The old one was good (although it could stand on its end, which was somewhat dangerous), and you can still find things in that style elsewhere - go for those instead.

Their current sculpting tool - avoid like the plague. I had the misfortune to buy one once, and it is shockingly bad. All the surfaces are rough, the head is badly shaped - and is a separate piece that's been crudely "welded" onto the handle. Even hard work with filing and polishing didn't make it into a good tool, so it was "accidentally lost".

My old ones (which I'm lucky enough to have found both of again) are amongst the best sculpting tools I've ever used, but the new ones are a load of droppings.
Again, there are better and cheaper tools in the same design as this older style elsewhere.

Balerion
08-06-2011, 06:12
The old silver pin vice did, and it came with four different chuck sizes as well (on was hidden in the top of the handle). It was a great drill, I have 2 and they work brilliantly...
That's the one I have, and I still use it all the time. Fantastic tool.

My one, minor qualm with it is that the different chuck sizes are spread out in a counterintuitive way. IIRC the smallest hole and the 2nd largest hole are on one chuck, and the 2nd smallest and largest are on the other. I would prefer if they ramped up in order, so smallest + 2nd smallest on one, and 2nd largest + largest on the other.

silks
08-06-2011, 10:15
I use the Galeforce superglue (as well as their knife and Pin Vice) and they're all good quality at a decent price (the glue is so much better than GW's)
But that's mainly because my local gaming shop sells it and I don't have to go to another shop to get cheaper stuff.
I do however make the special trip when I need more Revell Plastic Glue - it's amazing stuff

MarcoSkoll
08-06-2011, 11:31
My one, minor qualm with it is that the different chuck sizes are spread out in a counterintuitive way.
It's best not to put sizes that are too close on the same collet, because it means drills can bite at both ends if they're put too deep into it - which can stop it tightening properly or, in some cases, break drill bits.

Inconvenient, but not counter-intuitive.

dax
08-06-2011, 11:43
The army painter pin vice is like the old GW pin vice and comes with several sized bits if anyone is looking for one.

http://store.warlordgames.co.uk/the-army-painter-96-c.asp

Agreed on the new sculpting tool its terrible I have an old one and it's great I assumed they would be the same but the new one has larger heads and isn't as smooth or well shaped.

It seems as the price has gone up the quality has gone done.

I now use Halford's plastic primer after the 3rd straight can of GW spray just came out as white water no matter what I did to it (much shaking and even heating in warm water).

I use Revell Contacta Liquid for plastics and Zap a Gap or Rocket Rapid both medium viscosity for superglue.

Malagate
09-06-2011, 08:28
I tend to use the Plasti-Kote primers too, well cheap from Wilkinsons :)

+1 to that, I was in Wilko's the other day and was quite pleased with their range of sprays & glues to boot.

At this rate we may as well make a sticky summary thread that lists alternatives to GW hobby supplies by country, brand and supplier/shop. For instance I've been looking around and haven't seen Zap-a-gap anywhere nor any humbrol liquid poly (which is a shame as it sounds good stuff, the current poly cement I have tends to make long tendrils that I worry I will end up inhaling).

SunTzu
09-06-2011, 10:25
The fact you mentioned Wilkos suggests you're in the UK. I got my Zap-a-Gap from here (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/zap-a-gap-14.2g.-glue-g-/rc-car-products/1556). Granted it's a webstore not a shop, so you pay a little bit for delivery, but it's still cheaper and better than GW's offering, and that site posts very promptly.

Sai-Lauren
09-06-2011, 13:37
I can't complain about Games Workshop clippers. The pair I'm using now I've had since I started eight years ago.

Me neither, although the spring's long since gone the way of the dodo :). About the only other GW tool I have is the small vice, everything else has been bought elsewhere, mostly from Squires http://www.squirestools.com/, with some more specialised bits from 4DModelshop http://www.modelshop.co.uk/ (Sorry to all other readers, but I don't think either of them sell outside the UK, and for those in the UK, 4D aren't cheap).

For flock materials etc, look for woodland scenics ranges http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/index.cfm (they say they ship internationally, I've never tried), also available from anywhere you can buy model railway supplies - I've got a 2l pot of snow flock that I'll probably never get through :).

Plastic glue is the Humbrol branded one (although I use a OO paint brush, rather than the cows tails they stick in their pots), and superglue is Vitalbond (which can be a little hit and miss though).



At this rate we may as well make a sticky summary thread that lists alternatives to GW hobby supplies by country, brand and supplier/shop.

There should be one in M,P & T - I tried to get it up and running a few years ago. ;)

SunTzu
09-06-2011, 14:44
On a vaguely related note - there are two modelling products that I urgently require that everyone just says "oh, buy that from a shop" or "oh, just Google it" and I've never been able to find a good source for (in the UK): sheets of plasticard, and paint stripper. Any recommendations?

In particular, paint stripper basically seems impossible to get - I need stuff that will strip the paint but leaves plastic untouched (if it was just for metals I'd use Nitromors). It looks like Chameleon is perfect, but they don't ship to the UK, nor do they answer emails asking about UK suppliers. Last I heard was that the tyre cleaner you can buy from Tesco does the trick; 15 later, I found out that wasn't true. I've also been recommended furniture polish (doesn't work, more money wasted) and something called Simple Green (doesn't seem to exist any more) - but no-one's ever been able to just provide a link to an appropriate product, like for example the link I gave to Zap-a-gap a couple of posts ago.

I'll be your best friend if you're the one to do it... pinky promise...

IJW
09-06-2011, 15:28
Plasticard you can indeed get from all over the place in the UK, including eBay. A search for 'plasticard uk' will find you a whole bunch of suppliers on the first page of results (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=plasticard+uk).

You can also try Antenociti if you need something specific:
http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/materials-tools/sheet-materials.html

jack da greenskin
09-06-2011, 15:52
sheets of plasticard, and paint stripper. Any recommendations?

I'll be your best friend if you're the one to do it... pinky promise...

Fairy power spray and an old toothbrush.

Ebay the plasticard.

Voss
09-06-2011, 16:17
Also, I've gotten some good results from the "Dork Tower" brand of primers (I forget their real name, but they have Dork Tower illustrations on the bottle.) and they are very cheap. You can also pick up cheap automotive primers from Walmart for your metal models.
They are cheap, but I've had them fuzz up on me far too often. They are theoretically Armory brand, but they are vastly different from the old Armory sprays that used to be sold 10-15 years ago. I had a bottle of that in storage for 8 years, was still as smooth as silk (and more a dark grey than black), and tried to switch to the dork tower imprint after that ran out.... horrifying. Just terrible.

Now I pretty much just use krylon.

Sai-Lauren
09-06-2011, 16:19
On a vaguely related note - there are two modelling products that I urgently require that everyone just says "oh, buy that from a shop" or "oh, just Google it" and I've never been able to find a good source for (in the UK): sheets of plasticard, and paint stripper. Any recommendations?

4D definately sell plasticard (that's where I normally get mine), Squires might as well.

For paint stripping - Mr Muscle Orange (spray bottle stuff - which is incidentally good for cleaning clogged up brushes too :), the thicker stuff you'll have to dilute first and may not work as well), or brake fluid, or Dettol pine (not tried personally yet, although I've got a bottle ready for use) - or anything else mentioned on this thread http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4952

paddyalexander
09-06-2011, 16:24
For paint stipper I just use nail varnish remover & a toothbrush. A web search for anyplace that sells model trains, plane or boat kits. They usualy carry plasticard/styrene sheets as well as sheets of foam & balsa wood.

Novrain
09-06-2011, 16:48
There is a pound shop near my house where I can get 24 tubes of super glue for a quid.

It may dry out over the course of a fortnight, but for 4p for a decent sized tube - I really couldnt care!

Novrain
09-06-2011, 16:52
-Double Post: Please Delete?

MarcoSkoll
09-06-2011, 17:40
On a vaguely related note - there are two modelling products that I urgently require that everyone just says "oh, buy that from a shop" or "oh, just Google it" and I've never been able to find a good source for (in the UK): sheets of plasticard, and paint stripper. Any recommendations?
For plasticard, I can recommend Station Road Baseboards. They don't do sytrene tube or embossed plasticard, but on plain plasticard, their prices are good, and their shipping isn't exorbitant.
For tube or embossed card, try Antics or Transport Models. If you need lots of card, it can be cheaper to split between Station Road and one of the other sites.

Paint stripper: Fairy Power Spray or brown Dettol. Either works, just don't leave green stuff in either any longer than absolutely necessary (necessary is usually half an hour to an hour), because it goes all soft and rubbery after too long. I don't know about Finecast in this stuff though - try at your own risk.

Alternatively, really hot water, soap, a toothbrush and elbow grease. Better for Greenstuff, but not suitable for Finecast though.

jumai
09-06-2011, 18:35
Yeah, the GW razor saw is one of the best on the market. The paint brushes are also quite nice.

Wait, the razor saw is so good because why? I can't see anything about the blade that's different from the replacement ones at art shops, usually up to 50 teeth per inch and go for ~1.99 CDN. The swankier luxury handles might push $15. GW is asking $35 for theirs on the Canadian website...?

And as for brushes, well I'm a lot choosier than most but I've never been too impressed with the GW brushes I've examined. They're not absolutely awful if you must buy your brushes in a hobby shop, but if you search out your local independant art supplies dealer (the type crammed into an unfinished attic and run by a strange old man) you'll find many better ways to spend your money.

(I think they're a bit of a bargain here, but the main brushes I buy (ie not for drybrushing, metallics, or citadel washes/solvent mediums) are Escoda 1212's... they probably run my wallet an extra dollar or so each over the nearest size from GW, but they are gorgeous, .

Nomrana Est
09-06-2011, 20:35
On a vaguely related note - there are two modelling products that I urgently require that everyone just says "oh, buy that from a shop" or "oh, just Google it" and I've never been able to find a good source for (in the UK): sheets of plasticard, and paint stripper. Any recommendations?

I usually get mine from one of two sources, the local Modelzone (which sells both model railway stuff and model aircraft kits) and Hannants (http://www.hannants.co.uk/). I find both of them usually have what I'm looking for, and I believe that they're pretty fair on prices too.

For paint stripper, I've heard that you can use both Dot4 brake fluid, forms of cleaning products, or acetone free nail polish remover, all of which would probably be found in their relevant stores.

Balerion
11-06-2011, 06:46
Wait, the razor saw is so good because why? I can't see anything about the blade that's different from the replacement ones at art shops, usually up to 50 teeth per inch and go for ~1.99 CDN. The swankier luxury handles might push $15. GW is asking $35 for theirs on the Canadian website...?

If you like the look of the GW saw you can buy one that is functionally-identical from Lee Valley Tools for less than $10: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55600&cat=1,42884

It's good quality and works very well, but I prefer a razor saw design that does not depend on that sheet metal "clip" at the top holding the saw-blade in place. The clip limits how deep of a cut you can make. There are other saw designs out there that are simply a solid blade of unvarying width, so you can make cuts of unlimited depth.

AlphariusOmegon20
16-06-2011, 06:08
That bottle looks identical to the previous GW bottle, which makes me think it's probably the same type underneath all the labels.


Trust me that its not, on both counts.

The bottle is about double the size of the old GW one. The glue is thick, like syrup.

Trust ME, it IS the same glue from the same supplier and same manufacturer as GW used previously.

That's why I use it.

SunTzu
16-06-2011, 20:22
Fairy power spray and an old toothbrush.

Did OK on metal, nowhere near as good as Nitromors though.

Did quite poorly on plastic. Didn't damage it (unlike Nitromors), but only got rid of maybe 60% of the outer layer of paint, and none of the undercoat.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'll have to keep looking.


For paint stripping - Mr Muscle Orange (spray bottle stuff - which is incidentally good for cleaning clogged up brushes too , the thicker stuff you'll have to dilute first and may not work as well), or brake fluid, or Dettol pine (not tried personally yet, although I've got a bottle ready for use) - or anything else mentioned on this thread http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4952

Apparently everything Mr Muscle make is orange and almost all of it comes in a spray bottle, so I have no idea which product you meant. Brake fluid I've tried before to no effect, same for Dettol (which did nothing but get the model wet). I'll start going through the ones on that link I've not tried yet - but I'm in danger of spending more on trying so-called "paint strippers" that people suggest, that don't actually work, than I would on just buying the models new, which is not really the point of the exercise. Though thanks for trying; a suggestion is better than none.

Again: someone asked about superglue, so I gave them a link direct to where they could buy the exact stuff I personally recommend and which I am certain works. Why can no-one do the same with paintstripper?

MarcoSkoll
16-06-2011, 21:16
Again: someone asked about superglue, so I gave them a link direct to where they could buy the exact stuff I personally recommend and which I am certain works. Why can no-one do the same with paintstripper?
If you're going to be rhetorical, I can rise to the challenge:

Because there is no specific chemical sold for stripping acrylic paint from styrene models. Finding and recommending a superglue is easy by comparison. It's a glue, sold as a glue, and you can be pretty sure even before you put it in your basket that something that says "superglue" will probably act like you'd expect cyanoacrylate to.
Put "Generic cleaner X" in your basket, you don't know whether it'll work on the paint, whether it'll attack the plastic/resin/metal, how long it will take...

It's much harder to find a paint stripper than it is a glue. Ergo, making a recommendation is harder, particularly as there's so much disagreement. What some people say is brilliant, some people will claim was utterly ineffective and didn't do a gorram thing.

However, here is something I cannot personally recommend, as I've never used it... but Simple Green can be bought in the UK. (http://www.simplegreen.co.uk/3/)

SunTzu
16-06-2011, 22:12
However, here is something I cannot personally recommend, as I've never used it... but Simple Green can be bought in the UK. (http://www.simplegreen.co.uk/3/)

Aha - I have heard nothing but good things about Simple Green, but have previously only heard "you can get it from Tesco" which appears to be untrue afaict. Given such a direct link though, how can I not give it a try? :D Thanks for the tip-off!

Sgt John Keel
17-06-2011, 00:46
Trust ME, it IS the same glue from the same supplier and same manufacturer as GW used previously.

That's why I use it.

Again, I've only seen 5 g bottles from GW since I started in the early 2000's.

Is (was) the bigger superglue bottles peculiar to the American market, perhaps?

(Incidentally the GF9 glue is the one I'm using now, but I find it a fair bit more foamy and gap-filling than the GW glue, which can be good sometimes, and bad at other times.)

AlphariusOmegon20
17-06-2011, 04:34
Again, I've only seen 5 g bottles from GW since I started in the early 2000's.

Is (was) the bigger superglue bottles peculiar to the American market, perhaps?

(Incidentally the GF9 glue is the one I'm using now, but I find it a fair bit more foamy and gap-filling than the GW glue, which can be good sometimes, and bad at other times.)

I guess it was. The bottles I used before the change over to the new stuff was/is identical to the GF9 stuff, down to even the bottle it's in.

The only difference is the label.