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Nubl0
11-06-2011, 21:06
Ok, I bought a carnosaur yesterday as I have always wanted one, I had to go through 3 different packs to get a decent one. One had a tail larger than the rest of the model, and another had gaps all over the legs, anyway the one I got is perfectly cast, however there are a few gaps in the joints. I have been told by some people that greenstuff warps and melts fincast as it sets. Is this true? Because if it is then what the hell can I use to fill the rather noticible gaps?

One good thing however is that it now come with a chariot base! Take that you rubbish old monster base!

dragonet111
11-06-2011, 22:27
Yes I have some troubles with a box of Flamers, nothing really serious but it was a bit disappointing.

At present Finecast is not that great but it's just the beginning, I trust them to fix the problems with the following release. In the end I quite like my Finecast flamers.

Ghazbad_Facestompa
11-06-2011, 23:37
My experience with finecast so far has been awesome. My only complaint so far is the price.

vinush
12-06-2011, 00:07
I went through 3 or 4 of the empire captain model before getting one without bubbles in the gauntlet holding the hammer.

Archon Deloth Vyrr
12-06-2011, 00:53
I've seen a lot of finecast issues, luckily the only finecast model I've bought sofar was absolutely perfect

Marauderk
12-06-2011, 01:57
If your worried about Greenstuff then you plain old CA glue to slowly build up the gaps till there filled

TMATK
12-06-2011, 02:09
I would hope that greenstuff issue isn't true. How are people supposed to do conversions?

Roguebaron
12-06-2011, 02:53
Not being able to use greenstuff would certaianly kill a lot of my conversin work, can anyone verify it's an issue yet? If so, I need to start stocking up on my metal mini's....

Geep
12-06-2011, 03:52
I really doubt that there's an issue with finecast resin and greenstuff. I can't say for certain that it's fine, but I've used greenstuff with separate resin and plastic models with no worries- I don't see why combining them should make it suddenly horrible.

Nubl0
12-06-2011, 08:12
Ok I can confirm, atleast in this case that greenstuff does not affect it. I had to rescult one of it's front teeth as it was soo bent out of shape I hade to snap it off and the gaps filled just fine. Now granted I was only really using tiny amounts of greenstuff so I'm not sure if large amounts could do anything.

Also, all my smaller blister sized fincast minis have been ok. Most of the issues I am seeing is with larger models like the carnosaur and canis wolfborn.

-Loki-
12-06-2011, 08:38
Ok I can confirm, atleast in this case that greenstuff does not affect it. I had to rescult one of it's front teeth as it was soo bent out of shape I hade to snap it off and the gaps filled just fine.

Should have run the mouth under hot water for a few second, bent it back, then dumped it in ice water. Snapping it off and green stuffing a new one is really unnecessary.

Vampiric16
12-06-2011, 13:58
I think it's disgusting that you've had to root around for a decent one, and even then have to use greenstuff to fix parts. Considering the model is the price of a starter set.

RanaldLoec
12-06-2011, 14:11
If you've ever bought a larger forgeworld model then you won't be a stranger to occasional bubbles and warped areas in castings.

I'm not defending the defects all I'm saying is resin has its downside to plastic and metal. Although the overall detail and definition on a resin model is better the price you pay ( other than the increased monetary price :mad: ) is minor defects in some castings.

On a positive note all the monstrous infantry releases are actually cheaper then if you were to buy three of the old metal models . Eg Treekin, Ushabti.

I just want some finecast Dragon Ogres, YES I like the old dragon ogres models "so what you wanna fight about it ".

Vampiric16
12-06-2011, 14:36
Oh yeh, the Ushabti for example are very reasonable in terms of price. But that's three models. Carnosaur is one model. Which cost about 20 in metal when I first bought one. 40 for it metal or resin is appalling, when you consider the Arachnarock Spider kit is 36 and has a lot more in it.

RanaldLoec
12-06-2011, 14:43
I did put a little angry face when I referred to finecast pricing that reflects my feelings on the pricing of finecast. Let's move on though as the mods wrath may fall in our heads if we go too far into pricing and business plans of GW.

Vampiric16
12-06-2011, 14:47
Mods? Blast! Quickly, look busy talking about greenstuff and resin! *Whistles innocently*

cyberspite
12-06-2011, 20:12
Yeh, I had no issues with greenstuff and the resin treekin, and I used a fair bit of it on the arm joins (only because I swapped them around to make them different to my metal ones).

I also remember having to greenstuff the joins on the metal carnosaur too.

Sclep
12-06-2011, 22:42
You get plenty of sprue with the models, so just slap some GS on them and see what happens. Empirical evidence is your friend. I believe that plastic glue messes it up, but not much else.

If you still want the carnosaur for 20, you can buy it from the GW webstore. (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440121a&prodId=prod1110242)

If you want crok as well you can pay 20 for him :D

Chainaxe07
12-06-2011, 23:35
Hello, well i used epoxy putty on one and nothing happened, really. It was, however, a different brand than GW and, therefore, quite likely a different blend. It probably depends on how fast it hardens. The faster it does, the more heat it puts out in a short amount of time. So, in a way, a slow to set putty would be better at this.

slingersam
13-06-2011, 03:18
You get plenty of sprue with the models, so just slap some GS on them and see what happens. Empirical evidence is your friend. I believe that plastic glue messes it up, but not much else.

If you still want the carnosaur for 20, you can buy it from the GW webstore. (http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440121a&prodId=prod1110242)

If you want crok as well you can pay 20 for him :D

You cant buy him anymore. Hopefully GW realizes the issues and fix them, as they are charging a lot for resin. So it should be near perfect

ftayl5
13-06-2011, 04:27
I'm reluctant to buy Finecast models at the moment.
Irrespective of the price, I've heard many stories of people in England leaving their Finecast models in sunlight and coming home to bent spears and warped legs. I live in Australia.

Frankly I'm not going to buy something - especially something I plan to paint - if it can melt in 20 degree sunlight.

RanaldLoec
13-06-2011, 05:06
I'm reluctant to buy Finecast models at the moment.
Irrespective of the price, I've heard many stories of people in England leaving their Finecast models in sunlight and coming home to bent spears and warped legs. I live in Australia.

Frankly I'm not going to buy something - especially something I plan to paint - if it can melt in 20 degree sunlight.

Ah no according to the GW site its not the heat its proximity to the collapsed gateways of the old ones which causes the warping and corruption of models.:shifty:

JDman
13-06-2011, 05:40
I'm reluctant to buy Finecast models at the moment.
Irrespective of the price, I've heard many stories of people in England leaving their Finecast models in sunlight and coming home to bent spears and warped legs. I live in Australia.

Frankly I'm not going to buy something - especially something I plan to paint - if it can melt in 20 degree sunlight.

I live in Phoenix, Arizona, if you leave models out in the sunlight you come back to primordial goo patches and bases that belong to the 4th dimension. Regardless of type your probably best off not leaving anything in sunlight.

Chiron
13-06-2011, 05:49
I was hoping for a Fishmen topic :(

Freakiq
13-06-2011, 18:41
Just bought myself a Tomb King, the new Liche Priest and three Ushabti Bowmen.

The Tomb King was flawless while the Liche Priest had a slightly bent staff that will easily be corrected using some hot water and a moldline on his forehead that I scraped off with my fingernail.

The Ushabti had some bubbles in their back collars that'll be covered up by their heads anyway but could be fixed with some greenstuff easily.
These were the 2nd pack of ushabti though as the 1st one had some obscured detail on their chest.

I'm astonished by the amount of detail on these models, especially the Liche Priest.
To me this is the best thing that has happened to the hobby in years.

Rikkjourd
13-06-2011, 21:44
You guys are scaring me. I have ordered two packs of ushabti from England to Sweden and it will be alot of trouble to send them back if they are miscasts =(

Sclep
13-06-2011, 23:58
You cant buy him anymore. Hopefully GW realizes the issues and fix them, as they are charging a lot for resin. So it should be near perfect

Oh SNAP.

Even though I thought it was strange that they would keep selling the carnosaur seperately, in metal, this makes me sad.

slingersam
14-06-2011, 01:09
Oh SNAP.

Even though I thought it was strange that they would keep selling the carnosaur seperately, in metal, this makes me sad.

It really does as I would have jumped on the oportunity to get a carnosaur, and convert the rider. Templguard + saurus warriors can lead to some sick looking characters

kafrique
14-06-2011, 01:10
You guys are scaring me. I have ordered two packs of ushabti from England to Sweden and it will be alot of trouble to send them back if they are miscasts =(

I wouldn't worry about it, while there are definitely more miscasts in resin than there were in metal, you have to realize that most people who buy flawless finecast minis aren't going to go onto the internet and post about it.

horror
14-06-2011, 02:16
does anyone know how easy it is to remove paint from finecast models?

slingersam
14-06-2011, 10:07
I heard simple green can work but becareful as it can leave the model really soft. I also heard plastic glure works really well, and doesnt hurt the model at all.

amysrevenge
14-06-2011, 17:19
lulz.

One guy had one model droop in the heat (it was later reasoned that there must have been a large bubble in the leg), and the intarwebs turns it into "ZOMG people are having whole regiments melting into puddles at room temperature and greenstuff doesn't work on them and you have to use puppy blood instead of glue!!"

Malorian
14-06-2011, 17:29
lulz.

One guy had one model droop in the heat (it was later reasoned that there must have been a large bubble in the leg), and the intarwebs turns it into "ZOMG people are having whole regiments melting into puddles at room temperature and greenstuff doesn't work on them and you have to use puppy blood instead of glue!!"

I realize it's all anti-hype but I have to admit I'm worried.

The talk about having to go through packages to find a good one is the scariest.

I don't care if I have to remove flashing but I would be very upset if thanks to a bubble that part of a model is just missing :(

My brother got a finecast model (Queek) and from what I saw it was completely perfect, so maybe i'm just giving into the anti-hype.

On the topic of melting it actually makes sense. I mean if they are telling us you can fix a bent weapon by heating it up then obviously the opposite would happen to. It might not be at room temp but I'm sure many of us leave models in the car (even if in cases) where it can get it in excess of 30 degrees C.

Basically I'm not going to touch them until the hype cools down and I'm left with the facts.

wilsongrahams
14-06-2011, 17:51
I regularly used to have to sift through the LOTR models when they first came out to get models that didn't have broken weapons etc. The LOTR models were finer than the 40k and fantasy minis at that time so were damaged more often.

In store, you have that luxury to search through models. What I'm worried about is mail order - the hassle involved with complaints and pictures and replacements if sent may not be worth it.

Until I have no choice I've been buying all the metal models I want - I know how metal feels and works, so it's familiar. I have some resin models too, but there is no way the fine detail on a resin model will flex back into shape if knocked rather than snap as my local GW manager tried to suggest it would - it was fantasy's Queek and the 40k Kaldor Draigo that I had in mind when mentioning this - both have thin banners. In metal, the odd knock or pull when getting them out of the foam cases isn't too bad - in resin, I expect a snap and the glue from the repair to ruin the paint job.

I treat my models with the utmost care - and even store them in a dark room with glass coverings to keep dust off (and therefore less dusting that can damage parts) to keep them in great condition as long as possible. If I'm concerned with damages and brittleness then I expect the younger gamers that tend to look after the models less conservatively will end up with a lot of broken parts. I've seen some players (the unpainted gamer only not a hobbyist) that have even managed to break track assemblies off tanks and all sorts with their violent flipping of destroyed models and heavy-handed removal of dead models.

amysrevenge
14-06-2011, 18:03
"Wait and see" is a perfectly reasonable reaction. We really don't know how widespread any issues are, and especially if you're going to be using mail order, prudence is an appropriate short- to medium-term strategy.

"Try it for yourself" is another perfectly reasonable reaction. I did this - I went in to a shop and bought a single character model.

"Doom and gloom" is not a reasonable reaction, or at least it isn't reasonable unless you've held multiple models with major casting problems in your very own hands (I know that there are some people who have experienced this, and they are rightly upset).

Confessor_Atol
14-06-2011, 21:55
"Wait and see" is a perfectly reasonable reaction. We really don't know how widespread any issues are, and especially if you're going to be using mail order, prudence is an appropriate short- to medium-term strategy.

This is what I'm doing. By the time they release something I'm going to need, 6mo will have passed and we'll know all we need to know.


Seriously though, I think this is the worst product roll-outs I've ever witnessed. They really GW'ed this one up big time.

spikedog
15-06-2011, 00:19
I went into GW the other day to buy the Lelith Hesperax model for use in a Blood Bowl Dark Elf team and had to go through all 3 of the kits that were in the GW to get a good one.

The ones I left were not horrific but each one had a pretty serious defect such as a weapon, hair or leg with a large bubble in it that would mean serious green stuff repair work. Now granted this is my only experience with finecast thus far and it is one of the more delicate models but the results speak for themselves.

I personally would happily buy more finecast models as the details are indeed very sharp, very easy to put together and light but I certainly won't be buying any online due to not being able to check the casts out first.

ramongoroth
15-06-2011, 17:09
I purchased the vampire lord via mail order and it didn't have any noticeable defects. I didn't read any reviews of finecast models prior to doing so. It was a neat new model and not a large investment to see what its about.

I do have a question for anyone who has seen (or can see) the 'new' blood knights. Are you able to make all five models rank and file or are you stuck with two rank & file and three command figures?

wilsongrahams
15-06-2011, 18:45
Just thought I'd return having bought my first finecast mini today - and one I had dreaded getting in resin - Queek Headtaker.

I hadn't found a decent review so thought I'd do one myself to help others with their opinions.

Follow through the pics if you like. The first thing I noticed was a lot of flash on the sprues. Most of this was wafer thin and almost fell away the moment a blade touched it. There were also a lot of thin struts leading to the model and these needed to be cut with a scalpel. I was being delicate here. On one of the larger parts - attached to the base tab just in case, I tried wire cutters and the shock tore a piece away - so ALWAYS SLICE PARTS USING A SCALPEL NOT CLIPPERS. The material is actually a lot softer than plastic and even without a fresh blade it was like cutting through butter - the bad part here is that you have to be controlled all the way through the cut else a slip will cut up your model.

The next thing I did was to inspect the parts. There were a few holes where air had been but only small, and the headcrest and both weapons needed straightening. A gentle twist showed that the parts will bend easily, not snap (like I expected them too I must say - this isn't Forgeworld resin!), and return to shape after, so no quick fix like in plastic or metal. I next cleaned the parts using my scalpel. A few areas needed careful slicing to remove slithers and those injection points where the struts attached. This was more time consuming than with metal, but far easier and actually quite enjoyable. I also noticed that there was almost no mold line - just a few areas of flash to remove.

With parts cleaned it was onto the bending. I got a glass of warm water and dipped some sprue in it. No effect. I then run the hot tap til the water was hot to touch but still able to dip my fingers in, and after five or six second, I was able to bend the resin. So, with a glass of this hot water and a glass of chilled cold water out the fridge - the colder the better with these things - I dipped the parts. Once warm, I moved the part into position, held it in position as I dipped in cold water, and volia, it was rest and straightened. With the parts heated, if I let go then they returned to their bent shape so you need to hold them as you cool it down. A couple of dips and adjustments later and all three parts were straight. This was far easier and hasslefree than I expected - and very little chance of ruining your model - just have the glasses filled to the brim to make it easier.

The model was glued with superglue - and the fit of parts was excellent, and it stuck with no effort at all. Nothing fell off, and it set straight away - the lack of weight that metal has helps here - I found no need or reason to want to pin though I would have done in metal.

Last of all, I got a small ammount of green stuff and filled the holes in the model - these were small - see the last picture. I also smoothed and filled the gap in the base which I so on all models anyway - this isn't to do with the model being resin, and the gap is usually larger in metal.

To conclude, I did test bending some of the sprue - thin and thick (0.5mm and 4mm diameter roughly) - and neither part snapped despite a 180 degree twist. I did not try this on the model parts however because you never know when your luck will run out.

To summarise the process compared to metal - cleaning up etc is easier, by a long shot, and the fit of parts and assembly is better - no pinning, or bits falling off before glue is set etc. The only downside I could see was in the extra process of adjusting bent parts using water rather than simply bending them, and having to fill holes - though with metal joins often had to be filled anyway. These two processes are easy, and quick, so I have to give the finecast minis a thumbs up overall. Being so damn light (half weight of plastic even) the model wants to fall over in a breeze but at least it isn't top heavy and is stable in itself. Some putty under the base or a metal weight will help here.

I was really surprised and have to say that GW have a better product and I am happy with the price increase whether it is cheaper for them to make or not - I did note that they must have made new molds however due to the sprues so they are NOT using the same old metal molds.

t-tauri
15-06-2011, 18:54
Thread closed. Please use the existing thread (http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=298959) rather than opening more.