PDA

View Full Version : Help on stripping models!!!



seb2304
05-02-2013, 18:08
I need some help stripping the paint from my models. They are Space marines and I have Tried

Fairy power spray
white spirit

Also , please tell me how you recommend using whatever you have suggested.:eek:
ps. they are resin, metal and plastic, so please choose one that works on all.

KingDeath
05-02-2013, 18:21
I need some help stripping the paint from my models. They are Space marines and I have Tried

Fairy power spray
white spirit

Also , please tell me how you recommend using whatever you have suggested.:eek:
ps. they are resin, metal and plastic, so please choose one that works on all.

Isopropyl should offer good or at least adequate results. You can get some at your local pharmacy.

5Pointer
05-02-2013, 18:24
Anyone know if dettol is good on resin?

Havarel
05-02-2013, 18:25
Oven cleaner (but be very careful using it!) Mr Muscle works find on FW resin and plastic, not tried it on metal.

Ace Rimmer
05-02-2013, 18:26
I tend to find Fairy Power-spray eats most paint of of most things pretty effectively. I tend to drop stuff I want to strip into a big plastic tub and spray it on, leave it about 15-20 minutes then scrub off. If it's really stubborn or I can't be arsed and want to soak it longer and come back another time, I just up-end the whole pot into the tub and leave it to soak.

Flash floor cleaner is okay for long soaks, but it tends to dissolve the paint rather than lift it off like the power spray so it takes a lot longer and I tend to find the paint often stains whatever you've removed it from.

I sometimes power spray soak bits for a day then flash soak them for a week if I'm doing something with lots of nooks and crannies to try and get as much as possible off.

It can be incredibly tedious, I tend to forget about them for weeks at a time....

I'd say not to use anything based on Dichloromethane(DCM) on plastics but I suspect Brussels has helped you there by banning it.

wyvirn
05-02-2013, 18:31
Soak in Simple Green fr a day or two, and they scrub with a cheap toothbrush. Won't hurt the model, and works.

seb2304
05-02-2013, 18:32
I tend to find Fairy Power-spray eats most paint of of most things pretty effectively. I tend to drop stuff I want to strip into a big plastic tub and spray it on, leave it about 15-20 minutes then scrub off. If it's really stubborn or I can't be arsed and want to soak it longer and come back another time, I just up-end the whole pot into the tub and leave it to soak.



I was tempted to leave in longer with Fairy power spray but it says leave for no more than 30mins as it may damag the things you are cleaning.Does anyone know if you can leave your modes. in over night or has tried it. lso,i have found it only removes the top layer of paint.

Armfelt
05-02-2013, 18:34
Denatured alcohol and an old toothbrush. It makes wonders. Though you don't need to drown the model in it or keep it soaked for long. It is super effective.

Must say that if you soak it too long it may destroy details.

seb2304
05-02-2013, 18:53
Denatured alcohol and an old toothbrush. It makes wonders. Though you don't need to drown the model in it or keep it soaked for long. It is super effective.

Must say that if you soak it too long it may destroy details.
how long do you recomend?

Lord Damocles
05-02-2013, 19:26
I was tempted to leave in longer with Fairy power spray but it says leave for no more than 30mins as it may damag the things you are cleaning.Does anyone know if you can leave your modes. in over night or has tried it. lso,i have found it only removes the top layer of paint.
I've left plastics to stew in Power Spray over night before, and it did them no harm.

It's sometimes needs several rounds of soaking and scrubbing, but it works pretty well (for it's cost and lack of inducing chemical burns :shifty:)

For metals I use Nitromors.

AlphariusOmegon20
05-02-2013, 19:50
50/50% Pinesol and water works on metal in about an hour or so, provided the layers aren't too thick. never tried it with plastic or resin though.

hobbic_c
05-02-2013, 20:23
I use fairy power spray, soaked for 24 hours for plastics, though it can take a few rounds but it did work well!

As for metals, just use acetone containing nail varnish remover in a sealed jam jar for a couple of days and use an old toothbrush, it'll strip the paint right off and should require minimal effort.

With both of these though, wear gloves!

Wolf Lord Balrog
05-02-2013, 21:00
Super Clean, formerly manufactured by Castrol. Originally designed for de-greasing engines, it works great for models too, metal or plastic. I've left plastic models in it overnight, no damage at all to the details. You don't have to though, a 3-4 hour soak in Super Clean will take off anything, easy as you please.

dblaz3r
05-02-2013, 21:29
I've used dettol to strip FW resin once a few years ago. I left the model in for a few days and found it softened the resin to a hard rubber consistency I then let it dry out and the resin went back to a hard state. Can't remember how many days I'd let it soak to go soft but I'm sure it was less than a week.

I use brake fluid for all my stripping now, metal is fine to leave for months, plastic is another story. My brother left some SW terminators (dark plastic) and some old bikers (light plastic) in brake fluid for a month or so and found that his termies had melted but the bikers were perfectly fine. I wouldn't recommend leaving new plastics in for much longer than a week, it's easy to chuck a few guys in and get busy and forget about them though.

I've also found that when I rub the paint off with a toothbrush the paint comes off much easier if I don't wash them with water until after I'm done with the brushing.

I've tried simple green before but find brake fluid to be much better.

Deadite
05-02-2013, 21:36
Dawn Power Dissolve - easy on dishes, works wonders on most model paint.
http://www.dawn-dish.com/us/dawn/product/037000006329

I just pour it into a plastic container (don't spray) and drop my models in. Plastic or Metal, doesn't matter. A day later and the paint will come off under running water (though a toothbrush helps). It may affect greenstuff, and turns some glues rubbery (easier to remove). I've tried simple green, brake fluid, "purple stuff" from castrol (which is "ok"), even acetone, spirits and nail polish remover (acetone basically) nothing has come close to the kind of paint removal Dawn Power Dissolve has done for me.
I've left models in the pot for weeks and no damage done.
Can't say enough about the stuff.

Oh, best part... I've kept the same pot for about a year now, still works to remove paint from models. I don't have to dump out the fluid, don't have to use a fresh batch every time I want to strip. The formula is easy enough on my hands to not be too terribly abrasive, causing skin-peal, like Castrol does on my hands. You can always use gloves if it's still too harsh for you.

Guyver 3
05-02-2013, 21:49
Nothing works on metal like nail polish remover but be warned! never use it on plastic or resin as it will weaken it and melt the details off in seconds.

Stiff Tooth brush and nail polish remover until the paint comes off (literally seconds)then wash the bits of with dish soap, it will melt the superglue also so the model will fall apart, just use a needle to pick out any pieces of paint in crevices.

I heard about brake fluid or dettol for plastic but never used it

Resin i've no idea i guess treat it the same as plastic but waterdown the paint removing liquid.

5Pointer
06-02-2013, 07:36
Dettol is great on metal or plastic - and smells clean too lol

Reasonable Commissar
06-02-2013, 08:45
Ive been testing Dettol and Fairy Power Spray and both seem good for plastic. Fairy seems more expensive but imo is also a bit better, smells less and doesnt get as gunky.

Gingerwerewolf
06-02-2013, 09:04
Dettol (the Brown Coloured origional)

It works perfectly on Plastic and Metal if left for 24+ hours. If you put gloves on, and use very hot water to rinse while using a Toothbrush to clean it, then you'll end up with a beautifully clean model.

On Resin skip the Hot water, and dont leave for more than 24 hours. Its better to do multiple short sessions than one long one

Though as dblaz3r (http://www.warseer.com/forums/member.php?17218-dblaz3r) says it can make the Resin go a bit rubbery.

EvilMonkee
06-02-2013, 10:30
Brown dettol

Sir_Turalyon
06-02-2013, 13:05
Nail polish remover, just make sure it's acetone free or it may damage plastics. Less than two minutes exposure is needed.

thrawn
06-02-2013, 13:09
brake fluid works well on metal.

anything else (resin/plastic) and you run the risk of ruining the model. sell it on ebay and buy a new one.

Gossipmeng
06-02-2013, 15:14
Simple Green: Left metal models in it for 5 minutes and easily scrubbed it off with a toothbrush.

Plastic took a bit longer, but I left it in for maybe 5 hours and it too came off fairly easily with the toothbrush as well.

*** Non of my models were damaged by simple green and I was able to handle it with bare hands since it is just soap.

Capamaru
06-02-2013, 21:08
Ok I have the solution right here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paint-Stripper-water-based-enviro-friendly-500ml-tub-/271106937271?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item3f1f3b91b7 and it is called biostrip20 :). Eco friendly and it will remove paint with minimal effort.

Here are a couple of youtube reviews. It works wonders :).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrI3uaEzGFA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yK2jGRbeL0Q

Friedrich von Offenbach
06-02-2013, 22:29
dettol and plastic work well (metal would probably be fine but ive never tried resin)
you just put the models in dettol over night then it scrubs off with an old tooth brush. Works really well although use rubber gloves as extensive exposure to dettol is bad(apparently it causes blisters). its cheap, effective and easy to find (eg. supermarket)

MarkH
06-02-2013, 23:16
I've just used dettol to strip some plastic models, and while it worked alright, the dettol smell lingers for ages. I had to move everything out to the shed after the missus complained, and even then it took a day or two for the room to lose the smell. And gloves are a must. It is quite hard on your hands but the smell just sticks to you, and even the next day is still there.

After that experience I have decided to try something else next time, but am now going to be less likely to buy second hand models with bad paintjobs.

elparker
06-02-2013, 23:45
I usually did it with pure pine sol. Removes everything in one go, but wear gloves. My dad stripped over 100 gaurdsmen and ended up drying out his hands so bad the outer layer just kind of sloughed of a few days later. It wasn't painful or anything, but very disturbing to see. Otherwise it'll eat straight throu and, provided you didn't soak overnight, will leave the model completely unharmed regardless of what its made out of.

Zothos
07-02-2013, 00:07
I have used pine sol, nail polish remover, straight acetone, etc....

I have never found anything that works as well as Simple Green. Regardless of what material the model is made of, Simple Green does the trick.

This announcement has been brought to you by Simple Green! If its simple, and it's Green, it's Simple Green!
Simple Green, brought to you by Blamco!

DarkSoldier
07-02-2013, 00:09
50/50% Pinesol and water works on metal in about an hour or so, provided the layers aren't too thick. never tried it with plastic or resin though.
I use straight Pine-Sol and it hasn't harmed metal or plastic. It doesn't do much for glue; for that I've used acetone-based nail polish remover. It turns the hard bond into a rubbery material easily peeled off with a knife, but I wouldn't recommend acetone for plastic and I have no data for its effect on resin.

Luigi
07-02-2013, 00:26
I've used gasoline on metal model and it worked ok. The older the paint the longer it may require soaking though

SGS
07-02-2013, 02:49
I have used simple green. It works well on the basic citadel paints. It has trouble getting through any spray on clear coat, and has trouble with the citadel primer. I now use isopropyl alcohol. Any veterinarian, or farm supply/ hardware store should have it (Peavy Mart, UFA, True Value, whatever your part of the world has). Soak for a few days, then scrub without letting it dry. I like to reclaim the IPO for future use by straining it through a coffee filter in a funnel to remove all the gooey paint. Also you can use IPO to thin paints for airbrushing, and for fixing dry pigments in place. I don't use it for thinning, because the fumes would require a better exhaust vent system than my painting area has.

ASSASSINAWOKEN
07-02-2013, 03:11
Oven cleaner (but be very careful using it!) Mr Muscle works find on FW resin and plastic, not tried it on metal.

This stuff works great on metal and plastic. Resin I cannot confirm. It is fine to have a few different options.

Need cleaning gloves, bucket, oven cleaner, cover for bucket, tooth brush, water pot.

Place models in bucket, spray models until they are all coated in a thick slim from the cleaner. Cover bucket (Side of a box is fine) and allow to sit and bath in the cleaner for about 3-6 hours. When ready sit a spell and use toothbrush to scrub dissolved paint off and using water to dip brush periodically. I have found this work perfect with one application unless you have thick paint layers or two spray paint coats. Another cleaning usually gets it clean.


Nail polish remover, just make sure it's acetone free or it may damage plastics. Less than two minutes exposure is needed.

This stuff works great on metal and plastic. Resin I cannot confirm.

Need Non-Acetone nail polish remover, q-tips, small container. Do Not use inside. The fumes are not good.

Dip q-tips in nail polish remover and apply it to model and then scrub off the paint. This removes paint in seconds, but it can be time consuming and tough on hands. Optional is to pour a n amount of nail polish remover in cup and soak the models for a little bit and then scrub off the paint with a q-tip. Soak for 5-10 minutes checking t make sure models are stable.

Considering nail polish remover I actually experimented with it and found it works and tested it on a post in my blog. If you read towards the middle I start talking about using it and how it showed it worth. I have a fair amount of humor in there, but I did learn to trust the product. Plus the pictures show you how the nail polish remover can remove paint and prime paint underneath. The Land Raider in the pictures is a ten year old model so its safe on old and new plastics.

http://ststh.blogspot.com/2012/11/landraider-crusader-wip-part-25-and.html

Hope it helps.

I like the above chemicals as they are fast and can get me back into painting quickly. Other chemicals can take a day or two (simple green) or have environmental disposal regulations (brake fluid). I have used simple green before, but I have had issues with it not removing a prime spray layer.

-Totenkopf-
07-02-2013, 03:23
soak overnight in castrol super clean and rinse under the tap with a toothbrush... works like a charm..

dalezzz
07-02-2013, 13:06
I use Gunk Engine degreaser, does the job on plastic and metal , chuck some in a pot and a few models along with it and come back whenever :) never tried it on resin though so be wary there.
Cant say if its "better" than other options either as its all ive ever used

edit . its around 10ish for 5 litres last time i got some

williamsond
07-02-2013, 13:29
Iv'e used fairy powerspary a lot never had any issues on metal and plastica and got great results. also used nitromores on metal, works really well but is very caustic to human skin so be careful (it also disolves plastics so don't use it on them).