View Full Version : Jericho's X-wing Repaints

07-06-2013, 16:38
Hello ladies and gents,

I'm plugging away at some X-wing repaints these days, so I thought I'd put them up somewhere for viewing and inspiration. Sadly nothing as cool as this (http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?358768-X-wing-Boardgame) but it'll have to do :D

First off, let me just say that stripping these models doesn't really seem necessary, and by avoiding it you will avoid a lot of headaches. Some of the only models I've seen to have a lot of paint on them are Y-wings, but not a lot of folks seem to be using them anyway so maybe you don't need to worry about it ;)

For basecoating the X-wing miniatures, I highly recommend an airbrush. This will allow you do lay down basecoats evenly and without clogging the details, which is important since the panel lines are so fine on these models. For colors, I have tried a few and I must say - the colors you think are fairly light greys will appear darker on X-wing models. The stock miniatures are quite bright by default, so having them side by side yours might look darker. Also, at this scale it's more about shading/inking the panel lines rather than doing hilights, so this makes models appear even darker. Plan ahead and use the right shades of grey, you'll be fine.


From left to right, we have an A-wing basecoated with Celestra Grey, my first Green Squadron repaint which was basecoated P3 Trollblood Hilight, a stock A-wing, and an A-wing basecoated with Pallid Wych Flesh.

The Celestra will work nicely for any ships with a cooler, blue tinted color scheme. Prototype A-wings, TIE Interceptors, TIE Bombers and B-wings spring to mind.

Pallid Wych Flesh works nicely for warm color scheme models, such as the red/orange A-wing (I'm doing one for Tycho Celchu), X-wing or Y-wing.

For a flat grey, like the standard TIE and Advanced, or the Falcon, you can use Administratum Grey (the rough equivalent to old Fortress Grey).

More to come!

07-06-2013, 16:57
So, my first repaint was a bit of a mess, but I did learn a ton in the process.

The lesson mentioned earlier about not needing to strip paint is reinforced by the near-ruination of my first test model. I have multiple airbrush cleaner products at home, some of which are stronger than others. The Vallejo bottle I have from many years ago seems to be less prone to eating plastic, so I used what I thought was Vallejo airbrush cleaner stored in a small painting pot for ease of access. However, I think I filled it with Tamiya airbrush cleaner by mistake the last time I topped it up, because it separated into two layers in the pot and as I was using it, the acetone-like smell started to get stronger.

So after a few seconds of paint coming off nicely, the front end of the A-wing started to get soft and a bit stringy as it began to melt. I threw it into a paint water glass and then after rinsing thoroughly under cold water for a while, I set it aside to dry. Later on, I was able to clean up some of the slightly messed up areas, although the concussion missile tubes on the leading edge of the wing have some coagulated plastic goop in there if you look careful, and the details on the hood are less sharp. Most everything else turned out OK (thank the maker).

I also made an annoying mistake by messing with the mounting peg, trying to see if it would come off. I managed to break it off and crack the plastic in one go, so just do yourself a favor and mask it off with tape instead of trying to remove it for painting :p Making a replacement out of plastic tubing sucks, and will probably break again in the future.


... Anyway, the actual paintjob wasn't too bad, but I was in a terrible mood while doing it so it could have been nicer. The basecoat was P3 Trollblood Hilight, followed by a thinned wash of Nuln Oil. I then did multiple thin coats of P3 Gnarls Green for the squad markings, although I really wish I used another color (Foundation Orkhide Shade) as Gnarls doesn't cover very well. This was also given a couple washes of Nuln Oil, followed by a reapplied basecoat of Gnarls to brighten it up a bit.

Moving on to details, the darker panels and laser cannons were painted with Eshin Grey, and a dot of P3 Skorne Red was used on the laser cannons. I then reapplied a layer of Nuln Oil to the panel lines, as the previous glaze didn't really make them stand out. This is one thing I would do differently in the future, reversing the panel line wash and the glaze. Doing the panel lines first allows you to do easy touchups, while touching up after the glaze won't give you a perfect color match.

Final steps were to use black on the canopy, give the model a dusting of Testors Dullcote, and then brush on 'Ardcoat varnish to the canopy for a nice shine.

To sum up the recommended process:

1) Airbrush basecoat color
2) Brush on (using thinned paint!) or use airbrush and masking tape to apply your accent panels and squad markings
3) Apply Nuln Oil carefully to panel lines
4) Touch up the basecoats
5) Glaze with thinned Nuln Oil if you want more subtle, realistic shading
6) Spray Dullcote
7) Brush on 'Ardcoat to the canopy

You could also add additional paint chipping to your paint schemes if you want, probably between steps 4 and 5. As with larger scale models, you can sponge on a tiny bit of the main hull color to your squad markings to make it look like that layer of paint is rubbing off, and sponge on a tiny bit of dark grey/brown onto leading edges to show a bit of wear and tear.

For weathering pigments, this should be the final step before varnish, as you don't want to handle a model with unprotected pigments, as they would just rub off.

My next paintjob is my favorite A-wing pilot, Tycho Celchu, which is actually mostly done at this point. I worked on him for maybe an hour or so last night, and he's just about finished. I'm going to try a tiny bit of chipping on the A-wing before doing the Nuln Oil glaze and varnishing him up. Might even find time to do that tonight, as I have some games lined up for the weekend!

09-06-2013, 09:56
Looking good, I hope to see some more of your X-Wing reprints. I've been thinking of reprinting some of mine once I get more just to give them some identity.

I like the detail you go into in your posts. I personally don't know if it would be better painting over the top of the existing paint job, especially if you can get the colours thinned down enough. Might save having to go through the troubles you had with stripping the paints.

Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see more.

10-06-2013, 15:53
Glad you like them, AC! And I am just about done the current batch of repaints, just one more A-wing and then I'm not sure what I want to work on. Maybe Luke's Red-5 markings.


So Tycho Celchu is now done, and the pics above have him next to my remaining stock A-wing for comparison. You can see the panel lines are all picked out now, and the hood has a nice orange fade like on his card art. The red fade was P3 Skorne Red, hilighted Squig Orange with the airbrush and masking tape. After washing the red with Baal Red and Nuln Oil mixed, I re-hilighted with Squig Orange and blended up to P3 Khador Hilight with a detail brush.

I might need to go back and add a touch of weathering pigment to my A's, as a friend showed me his and it's a nice effect for the odd glancing blaster burn.


And the Prototype squadron has its first member as well. He's done using the Celestra Grey basecoat, as described above. The rest of the method is more or less the same, with P3 Cygnar Hilight as the blue color. Washed with a mix of Asurmen Blue and Devlan Mud, and hilighted up with a bit of P3 Frostbite added to the Cygnar Blue. The white was done with Ulthuan Grey, followed by Ceramite White. The panel line shading on the triangle looks a little better in person, it's subtle but turned out pretty crisp.


I also got in two more battles on Sunday, using the following:

Tycho, Push the Limit, Homing Missile
Red Squadron X-wing
Garven Dreis
Prototype Squadron A-wing

First match was against a Stealth Vader/Howlrunner Swarm, and it went absurdly well. Split deployment (Garven/Proto and Tycho/Red) and he went after the Garven/Proto flank with everything. Rolled fairly hot, with Garven barely surviving the torrent of fire early and making use of his ability to burn focus on defense and give it to someone else who needed more tokens. My return fire was pretty hot, downing a number of TIEs in the first few exchanges.

Garven blasted through the TIE formation and spent a number of turns arcing around to return to the fight, downing another TIE before dying. The rest of the ships picked off TIEs all over the place, leaving me with two untouched A-wings and the Red Squadron pilot (with no shields IIRC) to take down a lonesome Vader. Vader's ability to evade/focus every turn made me work harder than expected for the final kill, but after the merry chase he did go down.

Second match was against Chewie in the Falcon, with Engine Upgrade and Cluster Missiles, plus two Red Squadron X-wings with generic R2 units. I split deployment again and dumped everything I had into the Falcon early, ignoring the X-wings as much as possible. They didn't take the bait chasing my Proto A-wing through the Asteroids, leaving him free swing around the flanks and engage on the second pass.

Holy smokes, the Chewie Falcon can sure take a beating. Probably half the damage I put on it was criticals, which Chewie got to ignore. We were both down an X-wing by the time Chewie died, but then in the same phase, the remaining enemy X-wing promptly killed mine. So it was a single X-wing with full shields in behind my two A-wings, with Tycho already having taken cockpit damage (dropping him to pilot skill 0). This limited his options severely, as the enemy had position and could shoot before either of my ships. I think I made one mistake trying to reverse the position against the X-wing, pulling a K-turn with the Proto when I should have just split up and used asteroids for cover. If I had done that, I would have put guys on his tail instead of going head-on with him shooting first.

In the end, he was mostly dead but I was completely dead. Kind of a disappointing finish after I was leading through almost the whole game. Still, not bad for my first game versus the Falcon.

11-06-2013, 06:31
Falcon is a tank.

11-06-2013, 15:49
Yes, it most definitely is. And it can actually move stupidly fast if given the Engine Upgrade. Possibly not worth the cost, but the boost is huge with a big base.

Anyway, I was going to finish up a Space Marine sergeant last night, but basecoated my last A-wing grey and did the Green Squadron markings. Most of the touchups are done, and will be able to do the panel lines shortly. Green-2 isn't at all melted, which is nice :D

Easy E
12-06-2013, 14:42
Cool stuff. Wasn't that green color for the A-wing in RoTJ?

12-06-2013, 15:06
I don't recall there being a green A-wing in the movie. I know the jumpsuit of the A-wing pilot that crashes into the Executor's bridge was green, but his ship was still marked red. Even Fantasy Flight's card art for Green Squadron doesn't seem to have any green on it, just a shadowy red marked fighter.

Horus Aximand
12-06-2013, 21:06
I don't recall there being a green A-wing in the movie. I know the jumpsuit of the A-wing pilot that crashes into the Executor's bridge was green, but his ship was still marked red. Even Fantasy Flight's card art for Green Squadron doesn't seem to have any green on it, just a shadowy red marked fighter.

You are correct, sir! Although he was a Green Sqn pilot, for some reason all the Alliance starfighters had red markings for the Battle of Endor. Excellent work so far. How easy is X-Wing to get into? I've been curious since it came out.

14-06-2013, 15:12
The rules are quite simple for the most part. You have a small rules pamphlet and no charts or tables to reference. Fantasy Flight is big into cards, tokens, etc. so every ship has its stats on its card (and on its base), there are red attack and green defense dice, and your actions allow you to modify these results (focus can be used to modify the focus result on either type of dice into successful rolls, target lock lets you re-roll missed attacks, etc.). You can learn the game way faster than 40k/Fantasy.

The rules are simple, but they allow a lot of tactical benefits when you have everything figured out. And because you pick your maneuvers at once without knowing what your opponent is planning to do, there are some mind games in trying to figure out your opponent.

It really has been a lot of fun so far, and while some competitive folks do figure that Imperials might have a slight edge in the list building department, games are pretty accurately balanced and I have managed to go 3-3 in my first 6 games with Rebels, against mostly very experienced players. It could have easily been 4-2, but I got a bit of tunnel vision trying to take out the Falcon and allowed one untouched X-wing to gain an incredibly good position on my remaining ships. Only one game for and against were blowout wins, the rest were all very hard fought, down to the wire matches in the end.

The only hard part about getting started is that most ships are hard to buy. Starter sets and some of the big ships are somewhat easy to find, but Y-wings, A-wings, TIE Advanced and Interceptors are tough to get.

21-06-2013, 17:35
Finished the second Green Squad mini last night. Looks a fair bit nicer than the original up close due to not melting him with paint stripper. From a distance they look close enough.

I also added a white stripe to the tail fins of Green Squad, just like the blue Proto unit above. I like the extra pop of white on there.

Now all I need is to magically get my hands on a fifth A-wing to make another Proto Squad member...

UPDATE: Now with pics! One with Green-1 and Green-2 side by side, and a group shot of all four.