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ExquisiteEvil
16-06-2006, 21:00
Welcome.

Some of you may remember this chap:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2120.jpg

I painted him as a 'test' model for a prospective commission client. Well it seems he liked it as he gave the 'thumbs up' and sent me the army to paint.

This thread will chronicle my task of completing this commission, and hopefully provide some inspiration on building armies to a good standard.

Ok, so before I go on- a little background. The client bought the army off of Ebay and not everything is up to par modeling wise. Not only will I be painting the army but hopefully I can correct any modeling fau-pas and provide a few basic tips as I progress.

I will show the models exactly as I recieved them and provide updates as I progress, from reconstructing the minis to painting them all to the standard shown in the above picture. For your info, all the models still have mould lines/flash and an excess of superglue seems to have been used.There are various other problems too but I will highlight these with the pics.

So on with the fun stuff - pictures!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2133.jpg
Grandmaster with Terminator retinue.
Problems: one of the GKs force halberds is broken(dont have missing piece), and all of the heraldry shields are missing. Posing not great.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2136.jpg
10 Greyknights inc. Justicar.
Problems: Bad posing. not all of the moldings on he figures are up to par. notable the special wpns and under Justicars left arm. No backpacks :blink: , will order and recharge client.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2137.jpg
9 Greyknights inc. Justicar.
Problems: Same as above. Incinerator molding is terrible and may not be salvageable. This squad will inc.the 'test' guy above to make 10.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2139.jpg
Dread.
Problems: Forgeworld body- lots of flash etc.will be difficult to 'clean' as the dread is assembled. biggest problem is the model has no shin guards. I will try improvise with my bitz box - im thinking cut down chaos warrior shields but suggestions are welcome

And here is a group shot of the task at hand....
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2140.jpg

Now, here is how I will go about turning the above into a great looking army.

1. Clean up! -Remove all the arms for the models aswell as all the flash, leftover glue and mould lines.Also will be drilling out those barrels

2. Pose Down. -mix up the arms to get nice poses on the minis.This stage will include adding pins to arms , but i wont be glueing untill later.

3. Rock n Roll - Basing. will just be a simple sand job for the GKs in power armour. Bit more for termies, and the Dread is modular.

4. Black mist - Undercoating the models.Spray job.

5. Quick silver - basecoat the models and add first glazes- from this point on I will work a squad by squad basis.

6 All in the detail - next coat/highlights final glazes. paint base here-just simple drybrush here...

7.Stick n twist - glue the models together and touch up with final highlights etc.

8.Emperor Protects - Varnish time!

Well thats all!

So I hope you will all stick around - but most importantly I hope you enjoy this thread and maybe even take something away from it...

So my next update will be;

1. Clean up!

Seen you then

EE

Deadleyheadley
16-06-2006, 21:29
I feel for you mate ,Cleaning all the metal :( ,Ive just finished my last 6 GKs terminators for my DHs ,I will keep looking in to see how your doing

Railgunner
16-06-2006, 21:41
Another grey knight army in the project logs!!! Woooo, maybe this will inspire me to get my ass in gear and do mine (I have been bewitched by those fiendish eldar witches). I shall be following this closely. Good luck.

Railgunner

ExquisiteEvil
16-06-2006, 21:46
Thanks for the comments so far - alas on with the project...

1. Clean up

Spent around 30 mins so far Cleaning the power armour miniatures. This included taking off the arms, removing superglue, and drilling barrels.

Here is the WIP shot;
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2148.jpg

This stage is a little tedious but is necessary for a good looking army. Sit down in front of the TV or whatever and just get on with it. I did it whilst 'watching' footie(soccer) on the box

Next - drilling. Not everyone drills out barrels of firearms etc, but IMO it makes a huge difference in the finished product for not much effort. If you are new to the hobby or just dont know about drilling here is an explanation.

This is a pin vice drill. I got mine from GW but you can find them in most hobby stores.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2146.jpg

As you can see it comes with muliple drill bits. For ease of ref I will call them 1-2-3 and 4. 1 being the smallest bit on the far left of the pic 4 the biggest on the right.

Now the model.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2145.jpg
As you can see the barrels are solid rather than hollow. This example has small indentations hinting at a hollow barrel, other examples will be flat. I used these indents for a guide when drilling.

I suggest if the barrel is flat take a pin or the point of a model knife and make an indent in the middle of the flat barrel. This will help your drill get grip when you start and stop you going 'off course'.

For this model I uses drill 2 for the main barrel and 1 for the side holes. There is no hard and fast rule to this - just use the drill size you find the most appropriate for the job.

heres what it looks like once drilled;
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2147.jpg

An improvement im sure youll agree. It does become even more noticable once the paints applied, and as I said will add a nice touch to your models.

Its little touches like this which will differentiate your average TT army to some that little bit extra.

Next step removing flash and mouldlines....

Stay tuned!

EE

HiredSword.
17-06-2006, 18:04
your painting is very good, although its always nice to see a different colour scheme to the norm, but thats just me grumbling. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread, tis looking good.

You're right about the difference drilling holes makes, and i appreciate you showing us your methods.

When Black Roses Bloom
17-06-2006, 18:46
Great job mate. And as everyone said, I know what you mean... I've been drilling holes for an obliterator squad as well as for 2 CSM squads, a Chaos Termie squad and a Havoc's squad... My palm aches :/

P.S. GOD I HAVE TO KNOW: WHAT W.I.P. STANDS FOR!!?!?

noneedforaname
17-06-2006, 18:52
Work In Progress

When Black Roses Bloom
17-06-2006, 18:54
I can die peacefully now.....

ExquisiteEvil
18-06-2006, 03:34
your painting is very good, although its always nice to see a different colour scheme to the norm, but thats just me grumbling. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread, tis looking good.

You're right about the difference drilling holes makes, and i appreciate you showing us your methods.

Alas the 'problem' with commissions is theyre someone elses minis - I am under instruction that the metal has to be metal:D

I did take a bit of Artistic license with the left shoulder though using black and gold...

Railgunner
18-06-2006, 10:42
Just a quick question, do you paint the eyes and then the metal or the metal and then the eyes?

Railgunner

ExquisiteEvil
18-06-2006, 18:51
Just a quick question, do you paint the eyes and then the metal or the metal and then the eyes?

Railgunner

when I get to the painting stage there will be a full tutorial... but for your info now I paint them at the same time....

basecoat of metal then a base coat on the eyes.

highlight on the metal - highlight on eyes

Destris
18-06-2006, 18:54
EE i should kill you youve just got me started on a GK army. aah well :p

ExquisiteEvil
18-06-2006, 22:00
EE i should kill you youve just got me started on a GK army. aah well :p

sorry - but dont blame me, blame my client:D ;)

BathTub
19-06-2006, 13:35
So when drilling the barrel, do the holes on the side usually go deep enough to meet the hole down the length of the barrel or is it just to make them deeper and more distinct than they come off the sprue?

Thanks.

ExquisiteEvil
19-06-2006, 17:10
So when drilling the barrel, do the holes on the side usually go deep enough to meet the hole down the length of the barrel or is it just to make them deeper and more distinct than they come off the sprue?

Thanks.

Sorry it appears I wasnt too clear...

Once drilled the barrels are completely hollow.

I drill the front of the barrel first, deep enough so that when I drill the sides it creates a hollow barrel.
hope this makes sense :)

Scorpio
19-06-2006, 19:02
Lookin good EE! I always love GK.

-Scorpio

kermit
19-06-2006, 19:34
Looks good. At least, I hope, you didn't have to do any stripping of paint too... I had to do that on some that I purchased off line... stupid testors paints...

I am going to keep an eye on this project to see how it is coming along! (I see that Calgary is going well for you if you already have commission work!)

As for the shin pads on the dread... the sheilds should work... but do you have any plastic card? I was going to do this to my dreads... make the shin pads from plastic card, so they are more boxy. Have a flat front area on the front, then glue a smaller piece of plastic card to each side at about a 45 degree angle. I thought the square shin pads would look good. Never tried though... just an idea for you.

BathTub
19-06-2006, 20:17
Cool, thanks.

ExquisiteEvil
19-06-2006, 21:47
Looks good. At least, I hope, you didn't have to do any stripping of paint too... I had to do that on some that I purchased off line... stupid testors paints...

I am going to keep an eye on this project to see how it is coming along! (I see that Calgary is going well for you if you already have commission work!)



no stripping thank god!

The client is actually based in BC - had seen my work on another website and approached me online. I do it in my spare time and so only take 'private' jobs like this rather than having a website etc.

It means I only take projects that 'interest' me. Id never painted GKs before so thought it would be fun as my 'speciality' is real metals.

ExquisiteEvil
22-06-2006, 00:39
1. Clean Up.....part 2...

Ok in the first part I showed how to add an extra dimension to your minis by drilling out any barrels.

Now I will quickly run through what I consider the most important part of the preperation stage for you minis - removing flash/mould lines.

Many a times I have seen a good paint job ruined by an unsightly mould line.

To be honest, although I consider this part important it is also the most tedious job of putting together an army. My job here is especially hard as Im using metal minis...

On to the tools I use...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2161.jpg

Clippers, a sharp modeling knife, and needle files. The files IMO are more important for metals than plastics, where a modeling knife will usually suffice. I use the squared flat file for flat surfaces and larger areas, and the rounded file to get into all those hard to reach places.

I find its best to work in a 'production line' manner. Using the clippers first remove all unwanted flash from the models. Then I use the modeling Knife and give the mould lines a few 'scrapes' - the knife really lets you get into all the nooks and crannies so concentrate on those areas. Then the files. Flat followed by the rounded. try not to go crazy here - you want to remove the lines but keep the original shape of what you were 'fixing'.

So here is an example of a couple of models with mould lines
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2158.jpg

and here are the guys after a few minutes with the above tools
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/LLV/PICT2160.jpg

Like the drilling, not that much of a difference here - but will make a HUGE difference once the painting begins:D

OK so with that tedious lot out of the way - its time to move on to the Pose Down...

EE

Serpent
22-06-2006, 05:58
If the Dread is assembled with Superglue, it will probably be easy to de-assemble it. I've done this with an entire army in plastic, assembled with lots and lots of superglue... :( Small joints are in jeopardy, but should be okay if you really need to get rid of the resin flash. And from what I've seen of such things, you probably will.

For the Dread shin guards, I think the Chaos Warrior shields might be a bit too big. Perhaps Empire or Bretonnian shields would be better?

Looking good so far, I will look forward to seeing it painted. :)

Serpent