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Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 03:28
Hey guys I just discovered forgeworld stuff. Im new to table top gaming and only bought my first warhammer 40k thing in October before that I'd never heard of anything to do with the background or build up to 7th ed.

So I got a multimelta arm for my dreadnought in the mail today and I found a fw catalog in the box. Im half way through it and I just think I might need to find out more about these new land raiders and other things. Could someone tell me which book contains the 7th ed rules for the 40k stuff?

mightymconeshot
29-12-2014, 03:30
What army do you have? What are you looking for? Background? Or simply rules? What is your gaming group like? Do they allow forgeworld or is it only GW books?

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 04:09
I have a dark angels army and my group just have GW stuff at the moment but I showed them a sheet on the mortis pattern dreadnought and they were fine with it but I decided to go with a mm/pf venerable deathwing dreadnought instead. So I figure if they were open to that maybe they'd be keen to use other fw models, like the different land raiders and such. I have about eight horus hersey books which they lent me and im part way through the first book so I figure I'll have all the background info I need soon as I read them. I was after a codex type book for fw marines/dark angels.

HelloKitty
29-12-2014, 04:12
Fire raptors are fun.

Tarrell
29-12-2014, 04:13
Slow down buddy. Yes Forgeworld is great, thought think of their stuff as advanced, I've played this game for close to 13 years and never ordered Forgeworld models.
You'll notice they cater for pre-40k models/ Heresy and the great betrayal erra. Also their Space marines and Terminators are taller than GW models.

I highly recommend you first just buy a book and read through the story/fluff.
Start small, as you mentioned you have a dreadnought, so I can safely say you have Space Marines, or Chaos Space Marines. Start with a squad, then a captain, depending on your tactics/ likes/ planned use; expand: Tanks, additional troops, elites etc.
I highly recommend taking your time. This is a Huge Hobby, and many people here will give you and advice we can.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 04:35
I already have 3 special characters, 2 other hqs, a ravenwing force, a deathwing force and some foot troop. The next thing I was looking at was some sort of assault vehicle that can get assault terminators into the action. The fw land raiders look pretty cool I was wondering how they differ from the standard ones in my codex. I just realised I probably wont be able to use them in a detachment though because they're not from my codex.

HelloKitty
29-12-2014, 04:50
There are rules for using them in your list and they fit into a detachment. There are also rules for fielding 30k relic vehicles in your force.

Tarrell
29-12-2014, 04:53
Mostly the FW have to use rules from their own FW armour books, like a codex.

HelloKitty
29-12-2014, 05:13
That depends. A great many vehicles and units will say they can be a part of X codex. Imperial armor 13 was just released and is chaos vehicles that the csm codex can use. They occupy a slot in the foc and don't count as a separate detachment at all.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 05:49
Sweet, so is there a book that dark angels can use vehicles from?

I have crimson slaughter units which i got in the dark vengeance boxset and I bought the crimson slaughter codex too. I was also thinking of developing my dark angels first. But i'll get around to getting the crimson slaughter expansion box eventually and just going by the look of them I like the look of those demonic looking vehicles too. Like the blood slaughters, chaos decimator or brass scorpion.

mightymconeshot
29-12-2014, 05:58
Actually all of the vehicles in IA 2 just occupy a slot based on the type. There is no army list in it. The Land Raider Variants are interesting, but none are particularly great. I would recommend getting IA 2 based on what you have. That has all the vehicles for Space Marines, a ton of background (which won't be in any Black Library book), beautiful pictures, and the rules for using them. If you dead set on getting a terminator transport I have to recommend the Spartan Assault Tank. But I would be careful with it because some players and armies may struggle to deal with it which may generate ill will towards you.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 06:14
Thanks, I'll get the book just to read up about it.

Rolsheen
29-12-2014, 06:54
Imperial Armour book One 2nd edition should have everything you need for Space Marines, try starting small. Weapon swaps (Dreadnought arms), Vehicle exchange (Landraider kits) is fine, buying a Fellblade to start with is probably not a good idea (a. your friends won't want to play against it, b. if you don't have a lot of practice putting resin kits together you'll screw it up).

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 07:14
Okay cool, Imperial Armour book 1, 2nd edition.

And thanks for the warning I'll start small, had a hard enough time putting together a plastic landspeeder. I have small resin characters to practice on, shrike, belial, sammael and a dark apostle. Also I wont bother getting into the titans just yet as we're only just at the stage when we're looking at dreadnoughts and land raiders.

Durfast
29-12-2014, 07:57
As a rule of thumb, FW kits require more model making expertise (or at least advice) than the average GW piece, especially LR Spartans. If you decide upon buying one, it's worth having a chat with someone who has put a few together whilst you have the resin in soak ;)

Ghazbad_Facestompa
29-12-2014, 08:14
Okay cool, Imperial Armour book 1, 2nd edition.

And thanks for the warning I'll start small, had a hard enough time putting together a plastic landspeeder. I have small resin characters to practice on, shrike, belial, sammael and a dark apostle. Also I wont bother getting into the titans just yet as we're only just at the stage when we're looking at dreadnoughts and land raiders.

Book 2 is the Space Marine one, not book 1. Book 1 is Imperial Guard.

Spiney Norman
29-12-2014, 08:34
Okay cool, Imperial Armour book 1, 2nd edition.

And thanks for the warning I'll start small, had a hard enough time putting together a plastic landspeeder. I have small resin characters to practice on, shrike, belial, sammael and a dark apostle. Also I wont bother getting into the titans just yet as we're only just at the stage when we're looking at dreadnoughts and land raiders.

After putting together some of the GW finecast resin kits forgeworld will come as a very pleasant surprise, they use a much higher quality resin than finecast, which feels like a very cheap plastic by comparison.

The main advice regarding forgeworld kits is always wash them first, because of the way FW casts its models they often have release agent from the molds on them which can mean the surface has a hard time accepting paint unless you clean it off. I've put together a number of small and medium sized FW kits and not had too much problem. I'd stay away from the larger vehicles for the moment, aircraft and tanks etc, but regular man-sized guys and even mid-sized things like terminators are fairly easy, and great fun to do.

I recently got myself the necron tomb stalker and wfb river troll hag which are both gorgeous kits, I also got a load of Heresy era space marines for Christmas, so looking forward to cracking on with them.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 08:41
In soak? You got to soak resin?

Ah okay, Imperial Armour book 2, great!

Casper Hawser
29-12-2014, 09:46
I think Imperial Armour Apocalypse has most the rules for forge world models and is cheaper.
I've built and painted the Decimator, Blight drones, Plague Hulk, Death guard Dread and Necrosius and never soaked any models they've all turned out fine but I'm definitely no expert on modelling or painting I always thought you soaked them in warm water if they needed to be straightened.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 10:13
Oh yeh, okay I'll check out that one too. Now I know what you mean. I had a bent claw on shike but I cut them off and reattached a pair of vanguard claws, then when I got belial his sword was also bent but the guy at the store showed me how to heat and set resin.

totgeboren
29-12-2014, 10:31
In soak? You got to soak resin?


They are often covered in a thin layer of mold release, which can make gluing really hard and make the undercoat come off. So some water and soap can be useful on the bits.
One other reason for soaking is to realign all the pieces. Lukewarm water can be used to soften the resin without destroying the details. For example, I got a Hell Blade, a long, thin and flat chaos flyer. It took me a full evening to get everything straight, but you have to be really careful and not be in a hurry least you destroy your models.
Kinda funny with that one, after I had gotten everything aligned, I had it on a flyer base on my desk and I played some games on my PC. I had my desk light on too, which was positioned maybe 2-3 dm from the model, so 15 minutes later I looked over at the model and one of the wings were sagging! The heat from the lightbulb had softened the resin, doh!

If you buy resin models, make sure you never place them somewhere where they will be in direct sunlight for an extended period of time.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 10:50
Yeh okay, thanks for the tip. I'll move my resin minis out of the laundry cupboard, it heats up in there in.

So you wouldn't boil the kettle and dunk a piece to straighten it and then plunge it in a bowl of ice water?

totgeboren
29-12-2014, 10:56
Yeh okay, thanks for the tip. I'll move my resin minis out of the laundry cupboard, it heats up in there in.

So you wouldn't boil the kettle and dunk a piece to straighten it and then plunge it in a bowl of ice water?

Nah, just lukewarm water, like around 37C and submerge for 5-10 minutes. Feel that it's soft, bend and just blow on it to cool it enough that it retains the new shape.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 11:01
Thanks again for everyone's help. :)

dblaz3r
29-12-2014, 11:24
I have the FW Dark Angel dreadnought, it is fantastic. I would highly recommend getting it if you were thinking about acquiring a new dread.

Not Applicable
29-12-2014, 12:03
I know, it looks really cool. FW have heaps of really cool looking stuff. So I'm going to have to get this and that and my friends will see my cool models, like greyknight librarian terminators converted using DA shoulder pads and razorbacks with DA doors and then maybe they'll get into it too.

Very keen on getting this book as well, the table of contents of book 2 looks great.

HelloKitty
29-12-2014, 16:00
Yes - always always wash your models first before gluing / painting them - and never leave forgeworld pieces in the heat.

I remember a story where a guy left a land raider in his car in summer and went out to get it and it looked like a birthday cake when he brought it in....

Tarrell
29-12-2014, 22:42
Yes - always always wash your models first before gluing / painting them - and never leave forgeworld pieces in the heat.

I remember a story where a guy left a land raider in his car in summer and went out to get it and it looked like a birthday cake when he brought it in....

If he cried, I would feel for the poor bastard.

paperbag_Dar
30-12-2014, 10:34
Also what you can do if your gaming group allows such, is to use FW pieces as standard army pieces if the load out looks similar enough to substitute in so that you can use it as a basic model as well if possible

Hendarion
31-12-2014, 21:56
Actually all of the vehicles in IA 2 just occupy a slot based on the type. There is no army list in it. The Land Raider Variants are interesting, but none are particularly great.Some people may disagree with the Achilles variant Land Raider though... (although its not as strong in glance-to-death-7th-edition).


Nah, just lukewarm water, like around 37C and submerge for 5-10 minutes. Feel that it's soft, bend and just blow on it to cool it enough that it retains the new shape.Might work for some really thin pieces. Larger ones most likely won't. Personally I'm using hot water (70-90C), it's so much faster and requires far less pressure to bend it. Resin doesn't like pressure.