PDA

View Full Version : Gluing models



dale
03-08-2015, 19:50
I'm just curious to know what everyone uses to glue their plastic AND metal models together.

Konovalev
03-08-2015, 22:00
I'm just curious to know what everyone uses to glue their plastic AND metal models together.

Plastic: Testors plastic cement with precision applicator.

Metal: Whatever the cheapest superglue I can find at the local store is. I've never noticed a difference between cheaper and more expensive brands.

Metal to plastic: Both.

Moriarty
03-08-2015, 23:03
Plastic: Humbrol poly cement

Metal: Uhu, with cheap superglue top-coat

Metal to plastic: as above

O.G-Palmer
03-08-2015, 23:12
For both metal and plastic I have used Vitalbond CA. I have also used it for years on FW resin, never had an issue with it and it does not cost the earth and is widely available.

Poncho160
03-08-2015, 23:51
For plastic Revell liquid glue for plastic 3.25.

218142

For everything else Loctite Liquid Superglue 3G from Tesco for 1.

218143

Have been using both for years and they have never let me down :)

As a hint of caution, never use GW glues, they are some of the worst on the market.

MajorWesJanson
04-08-2015, 01:10
Loctite Super Glue for everything. Except the Warlord Titan, using some 2-part epoxy for it.
Superglue can be broken free, which is handy if I want to convert later, and if a model is going to break, I prefer it to break at the glue join rather than the thinnest part of the model.

SimaoSegunda
04-08-2015, 01:18
I actually use the GW thin plastic glue for plastics, and it works quite well.

For metals, I tend to use a UHU superglue from a bottle with arms, generally with good results, although I will be looking at this thread to see what alternatives work.

jet_palero
04-08-2015, 04:03
I use Tamiya plastic cement for plastic, and superglue for everything else.

TheBearminator
04-08-2015, 08:32
For plastic Revell liquid glue for plastic 3.25.

218142

For everything else Loctite Liquid Superglue 3G from Tesco for 1.

218143

Have been using both for years and they have never let me down :)

As a hint of caution, never use GW glues, they are some of the worst on the market.
Exactly this. Though my loctite comes in the little plastic bottle. Using brass rod or similar to pin resin models when the joints seem to weak. Like on my kromlech clanking behemoth and some of the kromlech meganobs.

As I'm currently about to assemble a giant (over 1,6 kg) Puppetswar resin model I decided to get some Zapp epoxy (5 minute version). Haven't tried it yet but the model seemed impossible to pin.

Rabbitden
04-08-2015, 13:13
Loctite super glue for everything. I've been modelling/gaming for 20 years and this stuff has never let me down and is easy to source. It also comes in a variety of bottle/tube sizes which is handy.

Draconis
04-08-2015, 15:30
Testors plastic cement for plastic.
Locktite super glue is amazing and it dries in like 5 seconds. Gorilla glue super glue is also good, it doesn't dry brittle over the years and stays flexible.

Theocracity
04-08-2015, 15:46
Elmer's school glue for everything. It's pretty crappy at holding stuff together, but it makes a great snack while modeling!



:shifty:

Dr.Clock
04-08-2015, 17:13
I use "Hot Stuff" for everything.

It bonds pretty much instantly, is pretty darn resilient, and will even fill smallish gaps between parts. It's a little pricy, but they stock it at my FLGS, and the time saved in holding pieces together for forever only to have them break is totally worth it.

It's manufactured in California... so may be more or less difficult to find, depending on your locale.

Cheers,

The Good Doctor.

Lord Damocles
04-08-2015, 18:03
Wilkinson own brand superglue for everything.

WarsmithGarathor94
04-08-2015, 18:08
I use either loctite or a cheap super glue

Sent from my GT-I8200N using Tapatalk

theunwantedbeing
04-08-2015, 18:34
Humbrol poly cement for plastic/plastic joins.
Loctite Superglue for metals joins.
I'll usually pin metal joins with a paperclip just to beef up the joint to make sure it doesn't break even with rough handling.

Applying too much of either means the join will either take forever to set or simply won't hold, plus with superglue you'll have to scrape it all off before having another go.

GW glues tend to be very hit and miss.
Sometimes it may as well be water for all the good it does, other times you get a perfect batch that instantly holds the millisecond the two parts touch.

Greavous
05-08-2015, 12:42
plastic i use the super glue thin from GW.
not had a metal model in a while but the last tank i had i got a friend to weld it together for me, i always found any superglue or mixed glue would always break off including metal to plastic.

a friend of mine is building a imperial knight using only paper clips and a drill (some screws, washers and stuff aswell), so everything is moveable.

Grudgedesign
05-08-2015, 16:05
Humbrol Liquid Poly, the kind in a glass bottle with a brush. And for metal and resin I use Locktite Gel.

EagleWarrior
05-08-2015, 19:39
Plastic I generally use Humbrol poly cement, but I don't generally find there to be too much difference between different brands.

Metal to metal or metal to plastic, I used to use superglue, but I've pretty much entirely stopped using metal components as I really don't like it, and will generally build something from scratch myself before using metal.

mikesmight123
05-08-2015, 20:01
Plastics I use humbrol liquid cement and for other stuff I use any cheapo pound land superglue, I don't notice a difference between expensive and cheap glue

EagleWarrior
05-08-2015, 20:03
The main reason I've found for not using the cheapest superglue is that the squeezy tubes often come mostly filled with gas and once you squeeze that out there's only a tiny amount of superglue left. More expensive bottles and sometimes end up cheaper per ml of actual glue.

DreadedNaysayer
06-08-2015, 14:40
Standard superglue. For those big heavy parts, use a tiny bit of green stuff together with super glue. It'll hold forever, trust me.

cuda1179
06-08-2015, 16:41
Plastics: Testors plastic cement

Metal: Loc Tite Super glue (unless it's a large metal piece, more on that later)

Resin: Loc tight super glue, or epoxy.


On larger models I get a little paranoid about breakage, so I go a little overboard. A 3rd edition Hive tyrant I built for a friend I used super glue to tack-on some metal wings, then I welded them together using hi temperature soldering iron, then I filled in the cracks and cavities with JB Weld, then I sculpted over it with Green Stuff. That is an absolutely SOLID model.