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azraelezekiel
13-07-2007, 22:34
I love seeing others work it inspires me to do stuff myself.
So has anyone done any WM scenery?
If so lets see the results of your labours!

I have been making hills and woods out of leftover laminate flooring.
Might do some pics/walkthru if there is enough interest ;)
Although I think I may have overdone the pictures today :eek:

I am also looking to make a wood elf shrine/sanctuary something for my lizardmen (ziggurat).

Woudschim
14-07-2007, 10:20
I will make some pictures today of our Warmaster scenery,

so far we've got:

3 hills, made of cardboard and clay
4 pieces of forest, just trees mounted on thick paper, and sanded
2 ruins, made from a cd, clay, cardboard
1 village, made from thick paper and a round cardboard base
1 mine/cave, made from a cd and clay

I will post pictures in the terrain section today, with some tips an tricks and a short explanation on how we built it.

Woudschim
15-07-2007, 10:20
So, I cannot find the camera, so you have to wait a while :S

azraelezekiel
15-07-2007, 12:05
Here is my first attempt at a hill/forest.
First start off with a piece of laminate board
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4560.jpg

Then cut a shape using an jigsaw.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4561.jpg

Then cut a larger/smaller piece to add height.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4562.jpg

I have used 'no nails' to glue them together and left them clamped together overnight. I did that for each level I added.
Then I driiled pilot holes for the trees. I used Busch n-scale trees as they were very reasonable 7 for 30 coniferous ones.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4563.jpg

This method also allows the removal of the trees to allow units to reside within the forested parts

azraelezekiel
15-07-2007, 12:10
Here is a view from the side
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4564.jpg

And another wooded hill undercoated in halfords red undercoat (makes the trees stand out more for the photos).
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4565.jpg

The glued up hill with a few trees for effect, waiting for excess glue to be removed
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4566.jpg

Glue removed on a different hill
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4567.jpg

azraelezekiel
15-07-2007, 12:13
A few shots showing the scale next to warmaster models
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4570.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4568.jpg

Just need to sort out the painting and covering of the hills.
Using laminate flooring strips limits the number of levels you can efficiently use to 5.
But I had enough stuff lying around to make
4 large woods, 2x2 level Hills, 2x3 level hills 2x4 level hills(one with a cliff face) 2x5 level hills.
May use on eof the 5 level hills to add a cliff with an overlooking tower.
I also plan to do a few deciduous hills and forests.
I also plan to do a few woodland shrines for my wood elves and albion armies.

Lord Lucifer
15-07-2007, 14:17
For 25mm-28mm 'heroic scale' games (Warhammer etc.) I prefer to make a simple base to mark the edge of a Forest terrain feature, and use free-standing trees on top of it, which can be shifted or removed to make space for troops, so it's easier for me to use the terrain in-game (and transport).

How practical would that be in Warmaster scale, in your opinion?
Judging by the size of those tiny little trees, shouldn't be a problem to base the trees individually on spare SlottaBases or the like?

azraelezekiel
15-07-2007, 15:32
We found that the trees walked ;)
Ok in an enchanted forest but not so much here.
The trees are of course removable.
I drilled more holes than necessary so you can have really dense/sparse setups.
Now off to try and source some styrofoam for my objective markers.

As for storage/transporting I was thinking of using box-files.
I use these to store my armies and they hold around 3k points of army.
Another plus side is I get them free from work :)

azraelezekiel
19-07-2007, 22:11
Just got hold of an old warhammer scenery book.
I decided to have a go at a tower, obviously scaled down for 10mm.
Nothing fancy.
Used an old toilet paper inner as the main structure.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4613.jpg

Knocked up a small balsa wood door and and a big knocker ;)
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4612.jpg

Here is the front view
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4611.jpg

Just needs painting now

Cpt. Drill
19-07-2007, 23:45
The tower is looking good! Be careful when using toilet rolls because they have the give-away diagonal join line that spirals up the roll. you sould try to cover this up because even when painted we found scenery made with toilet rolls still looked like a toilet roll...

It would take a while but if you did stone effect all over like you did around the door you would have one fine looking tower!

DarthIbis
20-07-2007, 03:36
It would take a while but if you did stone effect all over like you did around the door you would have one fine looking tower!
What about using some kind of rough-coat spray or something to give it some bulk or appear as a stucco-like surface? Maybe if you give it some texture so it doesn't "look like a TP roll" and then paint over that?

Just a thought... I haven't tried it myself.

azraelezekiel
20-07-2007, 09:15
I was planning on using a sand/pva/paint mix as a base or even rough masonry paint.
I have seen the rough coat spray and thought about that as an option as well.

As for stone all over :cries: it took me ages to cut and stick those little bits ;) I don't have the patience to do the entire tower.

Will post more pics when they are available.

Cpt. Drill
20-07-2007, 12:42
mmm... Yeah both of your ideas sound alot better than the ludicras sticking little bits of card all over a toilet roll....



...well the thought was there!

DarthIbis
20-07-2007, 13:44
I was planning on using a sand/pva/paint mix as a base or even rough masonry paint.
Never tried it myself, but that sounds like it'll work well. The sand will give it a texture while the pva should prove a good adhesive and the paint will give it some color.

azraelezekiel
20-07-2007, 21:52
I could always use the diaganol line as a guide for a starircase ;)
Or maybe not!

azraelezekiel
21-07-2007, 20:53
Here it is finished
The roof tiles are more finely highlighted than show in the photo.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4678.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4677.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4676.jpg

Lessons learned:
The PVA/paint/sand mix worked a treat giving a realistic textured covering for a few pence, instead of 10 a spray can.
Toilet rolls, wish I had got you advice earlier as they do stand out close up, but it doesn't look too bad from a distance.
For the next one I will wrap a heavy weight paper around the roll to hide the diaganol join.
Need an easy and quick way to make tiles/stones as they take forever to cut out :(

Also whilst on the subject I have found using builder's greade PVA to be a lot more satisfactory than the artist grade stuff.

Cpt. Drill
21-07-2007, 22:06
Hay man nice tower! I would give the roof a drybrush of a lighter red if I were you!

The building looks good next to the troops... I think I might try my hand at making some kind of scenery!

Keep up the good work!

azraelezekiel
31-07-2007, 18:48
Here are a few fences.
Used to disrupt clean thoroughfares :)
I used 2mm plasticard for the bases and n-gauge flexible fencing.
Just added a very light drybrush of light brown.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4806.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4804.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4803.jpg

Woudschim
31-07-2007, 19:31
Very effective!

Friday I will check out the railway-modelling store for terrain thingies :)

azraelezekiel
31-07-2007, 19:42
check for n-gauge. most of it works fine.
I am awaiting a ruined mine in that scale, that I am going to use for dwarf themed piece of terrain.

Lord Lucifer
01-08-2007, 02:21
Lessons learned:
The PVA/paint/sand mix worked a treat giving a realistic textured covering for a few pence, instead of 10 a spray can.
Toilet rolls, wish I had got you advice earlier as they do stand out close up, but it doesn't look too bad from a distance.
For the next one I will wrap a heavy weight paper around the roll to hide the diaganol join.
Need an easy and quick way to make tiles/stones as they take forever to cut out :(

Also whilst on the subject I have found using builder's greade PVA to be a lot more satisfactory than the artist grade stuff.

Tiles and stones, eh?
If you're wrapping thick paper around the toilet roll anyway, why not kill two birds with one stone and find some walpaper sheets with an embossing that looks a little like brick or stone work?
I've seen it mentioned for things like walls and linear obstacles in White Dwarf before, and it's probably the easiest way of achieving a great stone-built look AND dealing with the diagonal This Is A Toilet Roll line.

azraelezekiel
05-08-2007, 10:37
Tiles and stones, eh?
If you're wrapping thick paper around the toilet roll anyway, why not kill two birds with one stone and find some walpaper sheets with an embossing that looks a little like brick or stone work?
I've seen it mentioned for things like walls and linear obstacles in White Dwarf before, and it's probably the easiest way of achieving a great stone-built look AND dealing with the diagonal This Is A Toilet Roll line.

This is a GREAT tip.
Just been and collected a few 'samples' from my local DIY store, so the total cost for the tower comes to around 10p that is mainly for the paint :D
I can recommend the embossed wall paper it looks cool.
Will try and take some pics soon.

azraelezekiel
05-08-2007, 12:15
Just got back from a trip to the seaside.
Whilst on the beach collecting bags of sand, I found loads of lovely smooth pebbles just the right size for a few terrain pieces.
So here is the first, a stone circle.
I have always liked smooth stones for these rather than rough looking pieces of stone/foam.
I mean, if you are going to the trouble to make a massive stone circle you are at least going to finish the stone to a decent level ;)

azraelezekiel
05-08-2007, 12:16
Slayer pirates wander the ruins in search of glory.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4857.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4856.jpg

A shot without minis.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4854.jpg

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/mickmarriott/DSCN4853.jpg
Just need to flock them, which I use spray on vinyl adhesive then throw them in a very large box of flock.

DarthIbis
06-08-2007, 14:41
Very nice.

Anvilbrow
15-08-2007, 17:48
Not sure if it is easily available outside the US, but JR Miniatures makes a great line of resin terrain in 10mm, 15mm etc for a variety of historical eras. I have a bunch of the Medieval, Ancient and some Napoleonic. When painted, which is simple, they look great and are quite inexpensive (around $6-7 US for a building) I've managed to paint up a village of seventeen buildings with a river, bridge and watchtower, plus fields etc. and it looks great, all for around $200.