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  1. #11
    Chapter Master shabbadoo's Avatar
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    Jun 2005
    The Maelstrom

    Re: More info on Daemon book plus other things

    The "Unbound Defiler" sounds very cool. It brings to mind passges from Storm of Iron. Best to at least wait and see what the quality and features of the GW airbrush are before deciding to buy one. It all depends on how much bang for the buck GW puts into the airbrush. If you think you cannot wait(because you want to do stupid crazy camouflage schemes on your tanks and infantry now) then read on….

    Iwata makes excellent airbrushes for a decent price(excellent quality for the price). Properly maintained, you’ll not likely need another unless you get really serious about airbrushing all kinds of things (or get in the habit of using different types of paints). Many people have separate airbrushes for clear coats(so that they never become "tainted" by stray metallic flake in particular), one for metallics, one for enamels, one for lacquers, etc.

    The Iwata HP-BCS has a huge 2 oz. paint reservoir (cup), but you will notice that it will spray anywhere from as fine as a human hair to 2” round spray patterns. Very versatile.

    Always get it with the hose. It costs less. I prefer the braided hose, but the starter black plastic one is okay to begin with. Upgrade it when it finally dies on you. Here is a great price on it and the better air hose:

    If you want to do up close and personal work then you could go for this one:

    You can still basecoat larger things with the HP-CS, but the paint reservoir is smaller at 1/3 oz / 9ml. Remember that a bottle of GW paint is only 1 oz / 17ml though, so that give you an idea of how much paint this really is(perhaps it will be enough for you). On the upside there is no large siphon bottle in the way, so you can get real close to the model you are working on. That is important if you want to shade the muscles on your infantry(seriously, you can do this with a decent airbrush), airbrush fine detail/shading on banners, do camouflage patterns on your infantry, etc. The Eclipse range is great throughout, with a spray pattern as wide as a hair at its finest, going up to 2 inches (50 mm) at its largest. If that doesn’t cover all of your needs then you must be painting a car or house. Here is another link:

    There is also the Revolution series, which is also very good. You will note that it is very similar to the Eclipse series. The Revolution CR is the less expensive model of the Eclipse HP-CS, but the quality is not cheap at all. The spray pattern simply doesn’t go quite as fine or as large as the Eclipse series equivalent, though the pattern is still very good, having a range from 1/16” /1.75mm at its finest to 1.5”/ 38mm at its broadest, which is more than good enough for the average wargaming hobbyist.

    There is also the Revolution BCR, which is kind of a less costly version of the Eclipse HP-BCS.

    One important thing to note about all four of these airbrushes is that they are dual-action airbrushes. The dual-action refers to being able to control both air flow AND paint flow simultaneously. This is particularly useful for blending. If you want a fine misting of paint then increase the air flow and keep the paint flow low. It takes some practice to do this well, but you can get some great results. You can also purposely create splatter effects, such as for mud spattered up the sides of vehicles.

    Iwata also makes a great compressor that is near silent for you apartment dwellers or those who have a spouse not keen on the usual noisy(and large) garage style air compressors. The Smart Jet is a great compressor, with some great features. It is small, yet still more than powerful enough for airbrushing little army men and their tanks, or bugs and their bigger bug friends. The Sprint Jet costs a bit less and is still a good, quiet compressor. The Silver Jet model is the entry level model. It is not quite a powerful as the others, but is more than adequate for general hobby applications. That is what it is made for after all.

    Also, most paints require thinning to be used in an airbrush, and never just pour the paint into the airbrush reservoir (cup) straight from the paint bottle. Premix and then fill. The paint should be about as thick/transparent as 2% milk. That might seem kind of thin, but trust me, it is just right. Regardless of what brand of airbrush you settle on, make sure you look over the airbrush’s features before buying one so that you know it will do what you want it to. And make sure you clean your airbrush THOROUGHLY after using it, EVERY TIME. Trust me when I say that using weird cleaners to get dried paint out of your airbrush so that it doesn’t spit and splatter paint like a feral cat is no fun at all.

    Always test your paint flow for spattering and spitting before you point your airbrush at a model. Just spray it on a piece of white paper you have handy. If it spits and splatters rather than sprays finely then either your airbrush is dirty(clogged with dried paint, a hair, etc.) or the paint you are using has not been thinned enough and is itself clogging the airbrush. Clean the airbrush or thin the paint as needed to fix the problem. Sometimes an o-ring inside of the airbrush assembly can be improperly installed after cleaning and re-assembly which can also cause problems. Make sure the parts go together smoothly when reassembling your airbrush after cleaning. I think that covers most of the bases.

    These airbrushes, used with the right paints, are also perfect for trying out your body painting skills. Time to pay a visit to the mansion again…
    Last edited by shabbadoo; 10-08-2011 at 07:47.
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