The Imperial Guard Tread-head thread

[Hrw-Amen]

Another crop of nicely done tanks this week by the looks of things. It is aways inspriational to look at what the rest of the world is doing.

I have a couple of Chimeras that I have not posted before. Both Heavy bolter variants. I have made up one from the traditional kit and one using the new hull sides from the recent Hellhound.

Actually they do not look that different, I thought the newer one would be considerably thinner, but it is not, just a few mm. It just saves having to stick four extra bits on as they are ready moulded. (And slightly rewarked.)

Malika - I don't have any more photos of the trucks at the moment. I will in time find them out of e attic and get some better ones. There are a whole bunch of vehicles and BFG ships up there hat I mean to tae pictures of, but it is getting around to it.

Just out of curriosity, is the a general tread like this for IG regiments? If so where is it?

[cthorpe]

Some great looking tanks here guys.. well done..

I look forward to more treadhead goodness..

Carl

[Scharnhorst]

How do you make camo netting like in this picture?

[Wintermute]

Gauze soaked in thinned pva then painted is one method. (The pva seals the gauze allowing it to be painted.)

[SSG Snuffy]

How do you make camo netting like in this picture?

You can find it on Antenociti's Workshop here.

[greenbull]

In Bungaroo's log there's a nice 'How to':
http://www.warseer.com/forums/showth...126013&page=23

[Ash]

How do you make camo netting like in this picture?

Looks familiar:

I tend to add the nets after I've painted the model (lets any detail show through). Cut appropriate sized piece of gause (as in medical gause, availiable from any chemist/pharmacy), taking into account whether you want it to look folded (bulky) or spread out (able to see detail underneath).

I soak the netting in a very watery mix of PVA, H2O and dark olive green paint, the colour soaks straight into the material. Squeeze out most of the liquid (not too dry, leave enough to give the material enough weight to let it sag and hang). Plonk net on model, allow to dry.

The cloth strips are made from small rectangular strips of tissue (as in man sized three ply) but I separate them out into single ply. Makes life easier as you just cut one strip and end up with three pieces. Use the smooth stuff, I've tried textured tissues such as kitchen paper towels and Andrex (Mmm . .soft!) too thick. Ordinary smooth plain tissue seems to do the job.


Cut up tissue, mix up PVA, H20 and a lighter shade of paint such as a pale khaki. Dip the tissue into the mix using tweezers (it will soak up the colour and most probably curl up) place the wet tissue on the net and using the tweezers, spread it out and push it gently into the texture of the gauze. Repeat until desired effect has been reached. Don't worry if the odd bit tears or stays folded over it's all good and adds to the effect. I tend to overlap bits. Once dry, it's already base coated. If it's still a bit 'spongy' (the netting), I give it another coat of PVA and water to make it set hard. Finally give the whole thing a dry brush with a light brown or sand colour. Job done.

Sounds time consuming and fiddly, but its all about preparation. Get all the bits together, make tea sit down in front of TV occasionally stick bit of paper to tank. (Works for me) Have fun!








More nets:

[Necros]

Finished my new russ finally. I magnetized all the weapons so I can run it as a Punnisher, Demolisher or Executioner. I will probably mostly run it as a punnisher with Knight Commander Pask since he has BS4 :)

This was also my first time using powder pigments for the dirt and stuff. It looked a lot better before I sprayed varnish on it, don't know if the air from the can made the pigments blow away or what. So I might go back over it to dirty it up more, but here it is for now :)






Wadaya think?

[Ethan Hunt]

I think it's pretty cool..
Adding equipment, like towing cables, tools, boxes, etc could be a good idea, to give it more "life".
I can't see anymore "faults" with this tank.

[Mr Kibbles]

Wow nice one. But i agree with Ethan here, put more stowage on!

[DangerousBrian]

[QUOTE=Necros;4070989]
..........This was also my first time using powder pigments for the dirt and stuff. It looked a lot better before I sprayed varnish on it, don't know if the air from the can made the pigments blow away or what. So I might go back over it to dirty it up more, .........QUOTE]

this was my experience too, the varnish seems to almost make the powders into a wash, and make them much more subtle. but yeh, going over it again will help.

not sure if it was just the pigment/varnish i was using at the time (tamya weathering kit and GW varnish) or if others work differently.

[Necros]

thanks I never really did tank stowage. I started the army back before I saw how cool that would all look and none of my tanks have it, so now I didn't want to add anything cuz I didn't want this new tank to look out of place.

But, I have a 2nd baneblade I will be doing soon. I'm starting to think maybe I'll junk that one up a lot and paint it up to sell it since I don't really think I need 2 anyway. Maybe I'll go with a more deserty color scheme for it like for Tallarn, then I can do a lot more with weathering if I make the base color lighter, seems to stand out much better that way.

[Sergeant P.]

Bridgelayer







Made from a chimera hull and a revell 1/40 scale M48 bridgelayer-tank kit.

[Ethan Hunt]

Pretty cool. Nice.

[Mr Kibbles]

Cool bridge layer! XD

[Tommygun]

Bridgelayer

Made from a chimera hull and a revell 1/40 scale M48 bridgelayer-tank kit.

Nice.
Is that Revell kit still in production?

[Sergeant P.]

Yes it is. It's a 50 year special edition.

[greenbull]

Hey guys, it's been a while since my last contribution, but I managed to take some foto's from my latest vehicle for my Krieg-army: a medusa
I still need to finish some details though. I will probably add a plough as well.

One more thing: it was one of the more difficult Forgeworld models to build. I had a lot of work to fix the warped pieces and make them all fit together. I discovered a major design error as wel: the cannon had some fat tube on top of the main barrel, but with that in place I couldn't fit the barrel inside the enclosed crew compartment... I had to carefully remove that tube. The strange thing is, that on the pictures from Forgeworld, there's no trace of that fat tube. I suspect that someone remade the barrel for some reason, and decided to add something to it without checking fot interference...

Furthermore, the opening in the turret for the barrel was not wide enough. I had to take away at least 1 mm on both sides from the openings to arrange this. And finally, the 2nd step on the back of the compartment interfered with the big hatch when I tried to close it.I had to take away some material in order to be able to open and close the (magnetised) hatch. Again a design error. But hey, I won't complain because Forgeworld produces such nice models!

One thing I really liked, was the included foto-etched grill that acts as a look-through floor under which the shells are stored.

[explorator]

Beautiful work greenbull. I love your attention to detail, and you have not overburdened the model with too many accessories. Lovely.

[SSG Snuffy]

Agreed. Given all of the difficulties you described in the assembly process, the end result is fantastic. The track pads are nicely done, and I really like the pin holding the extra tracks in place - a very nice touch!

Nice photography too... excellent lighting for the colors displayed.