Lovely use of palette and shading, again excellent work - looking forward to the how to as would like to try out oils. Prob my favourite painting on warseer atm.
Lovely use of palette and shading, again excellent work - looking forward to the how to as would like to try out oils. Prob my favourite painting on warseer atm.
OK, you asked for it (well, a couple of you did) so here it is- painting oils on 28mm models.
This tutorial is, of course, by no means exhaustive. It also only represents my own experiments with using oils on this scale since I don't think there are actually any other tutorials out there for 28mm models. Doubtless in the near future someone else will have come up with a more thorough and expert way of using them.
There are 2 main points to bear in mind. Firstly is the underpainting which we'll get to in a minute and second is the consistency of the oil paint.
When i first started trying out oils i followed the advice of historical modellers- apply the paint thinly on the model but don't thin it down at all. This lead to utter disaster on 28mm models. Oils are just to thick to flow off the brush in a way that allows for any level of detail work at all at this scale- that applies for painting all types of area- even a large cloak will have creases and other subtleties to small to use unthinned oils on.
Instead I thin the oil paint down a lot- almost, but not quite, a thick wash consistency. Think how thick the new GW washes are then add times by 1.5 for a rough guide.
Now this poses a problem- such thin paint won't cover well. With acrylics this hardly matters- the paint dries so fast it is no inconvenience to add multiple layers to build up opacity. We can't do this with oils because the drying times are long and in any event we need to manipulate the wet paint for our blending effects. In fact, even if we weren't using thinned down oils this would be a problem since oils can be applied in a much thinner coat than acrylics- you can spread unthinned oil out over the model so thinly it works like an ink glaze.
To overcome this problem we'll use some 'underpainting'.
Underpainting is a term used in trad oil painting (ie on canvass) where shades of grey are painted before the oils are used to refine the work and add the colour. basically I paint the area in acrylics before applying the oils. I don't just base coat, I add shading and highlighting too. In the following example I'm using Charadon granite mixed with Dheneb Stone. Its a mix i use for all my underpainting. I don't use black and white for this as I want the slightly richer brown tones to shine through and add warmth.
Underpainting also tells me where to place the various tones for the oil paint prior to blending, but we'll get to that later.
Right, i think I've covered everything here, lets get on with the pictures.
Incidentally, I used the same tones for the flesh on my 'albino' ork nob, just lighter.
You will notice the colour in the photos is variable. I had to take the photos as i was working and the lighting in my photography area kept changing, so the colours aren't absolutely accurate.
The first step is the highlighting for the underpainting. I'm adding Dheneb Stone to the mix and thinning the paint right down. I apply the paint very thinly; I don't allow it to pool at all since i want a smooth surface for the oil to go over. if this first stage doesn't look like there's any highlights yet then thats good- for a smooth blend you shouldnt notice much difference yet.
The second step, just building the highlights. You'll notice that the blending isn't terribly smooth- it doesn't need to be since it will be painted over- its more important just to have the right tones in the right areas.
The next step just illustrates more tonal work
Now I'm going to add the oil paint. I mixed up a few batches of colour for all the tones from deep shading to highlights. This was done using Ochre, Burnt Umbar, Naples yellow and a bit of blue. I also mixed up some tones with more blue in them for later.
I decided to show the other side of the arm for the oil painting- just seemed to offer better demonstration possibilities.
Underpainting
In this next photo you can see how i've added the paint. Unlike with acrylics there aren't multiple layers painted on top of each other- instead the various tones are just adjacent to each other with a very small gap in between. This tiny gap allows me to start the blending with a bit more control than if the 2 tones were touching each other. Note that i've applied the paint as thinly as I can- thick areas of paint will be very hard to control.
Once the paint is in place i can start to blend, dragging the colours into one another with the brush. The areas I'm working on are tiny, so only very small movements of the brush are necessary. At this stage don't worry about getting a perfect blend- if you leave the oil for an hour or so you can come back to it. The thinners will have evaporated by then and you can do some further smoothing. Because the oil will be thicker now its easier to control for very fine blending.
I'm limited to 6 images. Tutorial continuews in next post.
Finally, after letting the paint settle for a while i come back and add some blue tones to the shadowed areas.
This isn't the end though. I often come back and add some glazes or blend further oils over the top after the first layer has dried if i think something needs modifying. but that's the basic principles for you.
Incidentally don't at any point during this wash your brush (unless you're leaving the paint for an hour) or the residue of the tinners will destry your hard work. If you have excess colour on the brush just wipe it on your thumb or something.
One final thing- i've knocked up some quick digital images to illustrate brush motion- I figured these would show the blending technique better than hugely oversized photos of the model. Also, the painting in the example on the arm was a bit rushed to get the tutorial done. basically when blending colours I try to do a round motion with the point of the brush- side to side motions will just push the paint back and forth.
I hope this tutorial proves useful and informative to you and that it shows that oils needn't be as intimidating as I always found them before i gave them a good go. i think i've covered everything but its pretty late here now so I'm sure there's something I missed so if you have any questions just ask.
Thanks.
Last edited by tortoise; 26-04-2009 at 08:28.
Amazing tutorial tortoise. Thanks so much
Been so busy lately, haven't had much time to paint.
I do have a couple more things to show you though.
First, an update on Snikrot. In the end I decided to tone down the red in his ears and on his back. I've since added a bit of red back in. I'd be interested to know which people prefer, this or the earlier version- I'm kind of undecided at the moment. I've also done some work on the lenses and the metal visor.
This is the base I'm building for him. Basically a kit-bashed Imperial ruin. I've got a bit more stuff to add to it but I don't want to overdo it.
Finally, I've started work on another Rackham orc- Kal Shadar, an orc hero model. Again, this model will be done up in oil paint. I'm really enjoting oil painting at the moment.
Anyway, cheers for looking.
Last edited by tortoise; 05-05-2009 at 22:52.
I like the newest version of snikrot best personally.
Gloria Imperator, The Firstborn Stand
Your tutorial is increidlbe... only bettered by the results...
Snikrot... well... just looks jawdropping...
i was pleased with my NMM on my blog but yours just makes mine look poo
Kudos
Regards
€
My name is Daniel and i am a wargamer
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How do you paint like that man? It's awesome how you can blend everything, have you considered Golden Daemon?
your blending is perfect.
My deepest thanks for your tutorial and posts. Very inspiring indeed! I'd love to see more of Kal Shadar soon! I actually pinned my own yesterday, I will do a whole army for CaoR though so I wont spend as much time and detail as you but I'd love to follow your progress.
Thanks everyone.
Not really. I know adherence to GW's mythos is a factor of the judging and I'm not really into that- I like to make up my own imagery a bit and play with narrative conventions and what people expect to see on a model. God knows what they'd make of the skin on Snikrot at the Golden daemon! In any event I think a painting competition is kind of odd. For me painting should be about creativity and inspiring each other, not competing against each other for some intangible sense of acclaim and kudos. I know winning a daemon wouldn't excite me all that much- that's just me y'know. But if I placed I'd be taking that place away from someone who really wants it and I don't want to do that. On the other hand if I didn't place I'd feel kind of bad I suppose and I suffer enough crises of confidence without outside help
Thats not to take anything away from the competition or the winners or anything. Maybe one day I'll enter, who knows. But I'm glad you think I could do well in it, its a big compliment so thank you.
I'll post some more pics of kal Shadar soon. I love that model. Nice to know there are other Rackham fans out there too. I like to see Confrontation stuff being painted so let me know how you get on OK?
Looking awesome!
I prefer the colder colours on snikrot myself.
Keep it up!
I really don't know what to say more than wow..
This is truly inspiring at all levels..
I've really tried my best to fully understand your tutorial but I just don't seem to get the hang of it..
"stupid english, darn language #!%&#"%%"
There isn't any chance of a youtube-tutorial is there?![]()
Excuse my grammar. Swedish am I!
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Truly awe inspiring stuff , I'm not sure I want to paint again if it can't be to that standard!! Spirit crushingly good mate well done!!
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Excellent! I have just decided on how to paint my Orcs, I just have to finnish a Karman for a competition and then I'll start working on them. I will go for Uruk-hai like skin tones or maybe more like native americans from south north america. I just have to find out nice complements to lift the dark skin tones. turqoise is a given one but I have to ponder how to work with furs, pelts and armour. This might be weird for the Confrontation universe but I have to deviate and feel creative freedom.
I have posted some on cool mini, nothing in your quality though![]()
http://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/Dangereux
Look forward to see more from you!
The most impressive Orks I have ever seen in my years with the hobby. I love the comedy value of the Ork race, but sometimes it's nice to see something that reminds you just how goddam terrifying facing an Ork would be. Your subdued colors and the attitude they convey does a excellent job of that.
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Massive Tyranid Revamp! - Themed Eldar Army Log - Beer, Guns and Dinosaurs: Catachan
Jungle Terrain Board - Converted Squat Army
Sorry, I don't have a video camera.
But put more simply, paint the areas of the model just like you would do in acrylics with highlighting and shading and then blend the oils over the top. Make sure the oils are thin and apply the oil paint in thin coats. When blending the oils use only very small movements of the brush. When I get time I shall do another tutorial on a simpler area of the model so you can more easily see what is going on.
Haha. Well I guess I try. There are lots of times in life when you can't really be nice, but painting isn't one of them I think.
Your gallery is fantastic, especially the equanimous monk. You really must make a log here and let me know when you do. Your colour scheme sounds most unusual and interesting and as you say, creative freedom is what its all about.
Thank you. You have read my intentions in the models perfectly.
Excuse my grammar. Swedish am I!
My Random log - Sculpting, comissions and other things.
My Greenskins log - Assembling my first army.
I'm not sure if you've answered this, but I'm really interested in why you would want to use oils other than just curiosity. Do you think there's any discernible benefit? The only thing I can really come up with on the fly is that the ability to rework the blends. Is there anything else?