Blackadder's Lucius Pattern Warhound Titan

[Alsharoth]

Good work, I can't even get my first head built let alone a full titan

[SDKFZ]

Like i wrote, an ace model ! Ill be checking your progress.

/ SDKFZ

[The_Blackadder]

Excellent work, I'm impressed that the joints are articulated, i only managed to magnetise the head so that it could look left and right.

I am going to post how I made the head movable and removable in a subsequent reply. It's a bit bassackwards from the way FW gimbals the head but it works and looks right as well.

EB

That is pretty impressive to have moving partsd, and it is coming along very nicelt. Excellent scratchbuild.

ElTanko

Thanks, EB

That's incredible! Fully poseable and a beautiful model to boot. I'd love to see a stop motion of this baby stomping around Are you planning on making the toe pistons slide in and out as well?
Looking superb so far, can't wait to see more

Wow that's a great idea; a stop motion video of this Warhound terrorizing the battle field. Sure to be a U tube hit. Thanks

Regarding the toe pistons; I have an idea on how to mount them but whether I can get cylinders and pistons small enough to look right is another story. I used Evergreen telescoping tubing for the leg and ankle hydraulic cylinders but I suppose I'l have to use metal tubing for the toes. I'll be addressing that problem this weekend as I am rebuilding the toes to be more robust.

EB

Good work, I can't even get my first head built let alone a full titan

I'll be posting the assembly of the head as I did it in later posts.

I appreciate the replies, it keeps this thread on the top of the list.

E. Blackadder

[The_Blackadder]

Since last I posted I've made some extensive changes to the way the head is mounted and to the head in general. We'll start with the overall model as it stands right now and it does stand wonder of wonders and seems to be stable in various stances so I must be doing something right or I made the feet too big.




first of all I bored a huge gaping hole in the front wall of the hull and routed it out as big as I could to accommodate the neck gimbal mechanism. I wanted to be able to move the head in all directions!!! Why you say? because the FW model can't says I, LOL

Then I found a discarded paint roller and used that as the sleeve for the neck gimbal

A 1.25 inch wooden drawer pull knob provided the orbit sphere and a 1.0 inch pvc 'Tee' fitting provided the housing for the gimbal joint. I carved down some 1.0 inch pvc tubing to make some races for the sphere to ride in and voila a fully articulated head that can be adapted to a FW Warhound if you're willing to sacrifice the interior detail.



Believe me it took a lot of guts to cut that hole.



The neck mechanism top view.



Bottom view...........



and the component parts.

[SDKFZ]

Smart and very nice neckjoint youve made there !
I allways have problem with movable joints as they tend to funktion great to begin with and then lose the abration that held the Parts in place.
How have you solved that on your Legs and Feet ?

/ SDKFZ

[Mangozac]

Smart and very nice neckjoint youve made there !
I allways have problem with movable joints as they tend to funktion great to begin with and then lose the abration that held the Parts in place.

My other concern along with this is painting - paint tends to easily wear off moving parts.

[The_Blackadder]

Smart and very nice neckjoint youve made there !
I allways have problem with movable joints as they tend to funktion great to begin with and then lose the abration that held the Parts in place.
How have you solved that on your Legs and Feet ?

/ SDKFZ

I used wood dowels to act as the axle of the joint. as an experiment I sanded a dowel to simulate wearand the joint became too loose. a simple matter of applying spray paint to the dowel increased its girth enough to tighten the joint again. The dowels I used are an extremely tight fit anyway and have to be hammered in.

With the plastic tubes in the toes; once again a couple of thin coats of fast drying spray enamel allowed to dry gave me the friction needed to make the joint stiff. likewise with the ball and socket gimbels.

My ace in the hole is superglue allowed to dry before reassembly which surprisingly adds a durable layer to the joint and restores the tightness.

EB

[The_Blackadder]

My other concern along with this is painting - paint tends to easily wear off moving parts.

It's not like these parts will be in constant motion. It's just a gimmick to allay the tedium of being locked in the same position for eternity. If the joints fail in the course of a game the tiniest drop of superglue will lock the joint until a proper repair can be accomplished. I'm sure the even the most durable FW model has had pieces detach during a game.

Blackadder

[SDKFZ]

i get the Picture, good luck on your build, Mate !!

/ SDKFZ

[The_Blackadder]

There's a few discrepancies in my version but not enough to change what I have. Right now the head armor is a bit too thin. and the angle of the fore to aft run of the base of the muzzle is not extreme enough but it will have to do as you can see by the posted image of this dates work the armor is in place.

Onward and upward as they say.

Blackadder



This image may look a little strange because the legs are in full extension. It will not be able to do this when the hydraulic cylinders are installed.





The waist pivot point still has not been moved forward in this image.



If you were a grunt This is the last thing you would see!!!



The Blackadder

[SDKFZ]

Coming along nicely. Are you planing on correcting all the thing you mentiond above?

Cant help but to laugh, in the first Shot it looks like its twitching its Toes !

Keep up the good work !!

/ SDKFZ

[The_Blackadder]

Coming along nicely. Are you planing on correcting all the thing you mentiond above?

Cant help but to laugh, in the first Shot it looks like its twitching its Toes !

Keep up the good work !!

/ SDKFZ

Yes all the discrepancies have been corrected to the best of my ability. It would bother me to no end to leave them unresolved and quite likely if left unaddressed would cause me to lose interest in completing the model

My motto is, "Good enough is never good enough."

The Blackadder, no government worker he.

The toes are another issue. They were extremely weak and the toe joints were too large in diameter. I am in the process of shortening them and rebuilding them stronger but it is the most tedious part of the model even worse than applying rivets so I just do a little each day.

EB

[The_Blackadder]

I managed to screw up the muzzle of this beast and had to redo it which set me back a day or two but the problem has been remedied and I am starting on the detail of the head. Here is the result as of this date.

Now that I'm fairly satisfied with the overall proportions the fine detail should progress rapidly (When I find the time.)

First of all I thickened up the armor on the muzzle after reangling the side panels on the snout



I tacked on the top of the head armor because I will be removing it to install the windows and windshield after painting



The following images are of the underside of the head. I had no idea that area was so detailed as not one of the pictures I've seen showed anything but a glimpse of this section of the model. I have a benefactor on another forum who graciously provided some images of this detail.









E. Blackadder

[eltanko]

This is coming alomg very nicely, impressed particularly by the head, must have taken some doing.

ElTanko

[The_Blackadder]

This is coming alomg very nicely, impressed particularly by the head, must have taken some doing.

ElTanko

It may surprise you but no, detail work is really simple a fact which I have always tried to impress on my son. He has a great start on a Thunderhawk but has bogged down on the detail. For me, detailing is the fun part and makes a model come alive. It may have taken me less than an hour to do the underside detail to the point it's at right now. say another half hour for the rivets (on the underside the muzzle will require the most effort as the rivets and electrical conduits are so small and thin.)

[The_Blackadder]

Thanks for the words of encouragement. I started this project attempting to build a Warhound facsimile for my son out of foam filled board but the more I got into it the more I wanted to have a realistic copy of the original. I have departed from the original design in a few areas especially the shield generator housings in the back which looked a bit small and blocky on the original. Mine are larger and I think more in keeping with the overall sleekness of the rest of the model; the carapace at least.

I'm not too worried about the legs any more; I believe they are within a millimeter of accuracy in diameter and length. my major concern is the hip ball joints which are 3mm too small in diameter although it's hard to see the difference. I've left the waist for last in detailing as I still am looking for a ball 2.57cm in diameter.

Below are the images of the model to date:













once again thanks for the replies and input,

E. Blackadder

[The_Blackadder]

The foot detail:









EB

[Mangozac]

Consistently awesome! I do like the sleeker profile you have done.

Warhounds look so funny and chicken like without their weapons

[SDKFZ]

Looks very nice !! I like all the details youve put onto your Warhound.

How are the Guns doing ?

Nice that youve done the details on the Carapace-underside too, i didnt bother with themon mine, i must confess.

Great work. Any ideas as to how youll paint it ?

/ SDKFZ

[The_Blackadder]

Looks very nice !! I like all the details youve put onto your Warhound.

How are the Guns doing ?

Nice that youve done the details on the Carapace-underside too, i didnt bother with themon mine, i must confess.

Great work. Any ideas as to how youll paint it ?

/ SDKFZ

Initially I'll put a base coat of primer gray. That's nrcessary to detect the flaws and seams. I am toying with the idea of using powdered aluminum and copper to simulate streaks and age. I'll have to work out the details on how to apply metal powder but I've had good results with a "fan blender" style brush.