Nice terrain! Im a big fan of these kind of pieces opposed to gw's plastic forests and battleboards. These just feel more authentic. (though gw has done some incredible buildings, but thats another subject). One point of criticism i would like to offer, on the last bloodletters it seems you highlighted up to skull white moreso then on the previous ones, a matter od taste though - but i like the previous ones better.
8th edition WFB:Originally Posted by mrtn
Dwarfs: W 2 D 2 L 3
Dark Elves: W 0 D 1 L 0
@KhorneRockz
Here's the recipe for my Bloodletters:
Step One: Skin
First, undercoat with Chaos Black. Paint all the skin Bestial Brown, then Red Gore. Highlight raised areas of musculature and the spots (or scales, or whatever they are) with Blood Red, paying particular attention to the top of the head crest which should transition into pure Blood Red, and then pick out all the spots again with Fiery Orange. Lastly, apply a generous wash of Baal Red to all the skin, let it dry, then apply a second one.
Step Two: Sword
Paint the hilt of the sword Brazen Brass, then wash it with Brown Ink (no longer available from GW, you may have to use a substitute from another range). Highlight the edges of the hilt and the tip of the point(s) at the end of the handle with Mithril Silver. Now, paint the blade over again with Chaos Black (to cover up any splashes from previous stages - at this point I also like to paint the eyes, horns, claws, teeth, tongue and back 'fin' with black as well, since I have the paint open). To create the heat effect, start by painting the top 1/3 or so of the blade with Red Gore, as well as the edge of the blade right up to the hilt. Next, paint Blood Red on top of the Red Gore, in a smaller area so as to leave some Red Gore showing (refer to the pictures to see exactly what I mean here). Continue this procedure with Fiery Orange, Sunburst Yellow, and Skull White, progressively painting a smaller area as you get nearer to the tip of the blade. Note that the edge of the blade should only go up to Fiery Orange. Also, try to transition the colours into each other by having an 'irregular' join between them - i.e. not a straight line dividing the two colours (again refer to the pictures here).
Step Three: Details
If the eyes, claws, teeth, horns, tongue and back fin havn't yet been painted Chaos Black, do that now. Paint the top 1/3 of the horns, and the individual spines on the fin, Codex Grey. Using a similar method as for the sword, then paint them Fortress Grey and finally the very tips with Skull White. Similarly, paint the tips of the claws and teeth with Fortress Grey and then pick out the very tips with Skull White.
For the tongue, paint the lower half Dark Angels Green, then the lower quarter Snot Green, and lastly Scorpion Green on the tip.
Finally, paint the eyes Dark Angels Green, then Snot Green, then dot the middle of them with Scorpion Green.
Step Four: Base
Start by painting rough, fairly wide lines of Red Gore where you want the lava to go. If you want to replicate the 'pattern across bases' effect I use, the best thing to do with each model is to line it up with those next to it you have already done and follow the lines accordingly from each base to the next. Once done, paint a thinner line of Blood Red inside the first, leaving Red Gore at the edges. Continue in this manner through Fiery Orange, Sunburst Yellow, and lastly Skull White, which should be a very fine line.
Base the non-lava areas with gravel and be sure to seal it with a watered down coat of PVA over the top, taking care to avoid the lava - use a dry brush to remove any stray bits of gravel.
That turned out much longer than I thought it might...
I hope it helps!
@GriffonClaw
I assume you mean on the swords? Because yes, you're quite right - the downside of procrastinating for so long between the first two rows of the big unit and the third one meant my painting method evolved slightly to include more white. Though personally I prefer the ones with more, they just seem better executed.
Thanks for your comments
Argh double post! Yeah I meant the blades indeed.
Last edited by Griffonclaw; 10-05-2011 at 15:08.
8th edition WFB:
Dwarfs: W 2 D 2 L 3
Dark Elves: W 0 D 1 L 0
Pretty nice Khorne Daemons. I'm not a fan of the Bloodhound sculpts (neither the current ones, though), but the painting is solid. And I definetely have to give the "lava blade concept" a second thought - yours look great.
About the graveyard scenery: have you thought about using this? It's from Renedra, pretty cheap, but good quality - and a bit more varied than the GW gravestones.
@Darnok
Thank you for your compliments
As for the graveyard you linked, it is a very nice kit indeed - if I ever make another one I'll definetely look into using that.
Almost a year later, my log returns to action - doing precisely what I was trying to avoid and beginning a different project without finishing the first. Nevertheless, the Khorne Daemons have been on the back foot for a while (though are not forgotten, fear not), and a new Undead army has caught my attention - one primarily built from the Kings of War range. I had a fair few boxes of Undead around so I thought 'what better way to reinvigorate my painting?'
First of all, we have my Vampire Lady: Countess Victoria Valentine:
A figure I'm very pleased with, since Victoria's original form (while creative) was rather lacking in femininity ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...aValentine.png ). I saw the Avatars of War Vampire figure in a project log and thought 'that would go perfectly with the head I've used for my Vampire' - a piece from a Freebooter Miniatures figure called Raven that I don't believe they produce any longer, and for which I bought the model years upon years ago. It required a far degree of cutting and filing to get the neck joint to fit (made all the more awkward by her forward flowing hair), but a bit of GS to make the hair match up at the back and I was satisfied.
Further images:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Valentine3.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Valentine4.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Valentine5.png
Now some necessary core - Skeletons:
I've found myself very impressed by Mantic's Skeleton models - once you look at the kit itself rather than the photographed examples, it's possibilities open up a lot for creative posing and characterful figures that still rank up. My only real gripe is the lack of any kind of real banner or icon for the standard, leaving it a little plain, but future regiments will likely have that attended to.
Further images:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...keletonsA1.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...keletonsA3.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...keletonsA5.png
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...keletonsA6.png
And finally, the unit I'm currently working on - Revenants:
Again, some very solid figures here once you start experimenting with them. A little more conversion work is needed than the Skeletons, given the propensity of 'fixed' torso pieces, but nevertheless I had a lot of fun putting it together. The verdigris effect was built up from a Hawk Turquoise basecoat, with drybrushes of Tin Bitz and Brazen Brass, a light drybrush of Hawk Turquoise again, and then the magic ingredient of a Devlan Mud wash to tone it all together rather nicely - it has certainly come off a lot better than I expected it to. You'll notice I addressed the issue of the standard with this unit, using a couple of pieces from the High Elf Spearman sprue to make a slightly more interesting standard.
Further image:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...irstRankA3.png
I'll be working my way through the rest of the Revenant unit from here. Hopefully, pictures will be forthcoming sooner rather than later.
You should make the crosses on the Revenant shields thicker, I think. Tidy up the chevrons on the regular skeleton shields a little bit, and then you could really lift the whole regiment by applying some simple weathering with a sponge and a few strokes of silver paint.
Otherwise, great stuff.
R.
@precinctomega
I agree about the black lines on the shields, they could do with a bit of widening to be a bit more noticeable. As effective as the weathering would be, though, I'll probably skip on it due to laziness!
Thank you for your feedback
Now, to the order of the day. I have managed to get back to working on the Khorne Daemons, as originally intended, completing the next Bloodletter in the current unit and making significant progress on a second:
The finished Bloodletter in question is one of my favourites, nicknamed 'Aargh my eyes!'. Originally he was just built that way in order to rank up successfully, but the pose turned out to be rather amusing. A later one in the unit (the last one, I believe) has a similarly creative pose.
I've also been working on something else related to the army:
The pool unfortunately doesn't look quite so pristine anymore, as the watered-down glue is either leaking out or diminishing as it dries. An alternative solution may need to be pursued...
More Bloodletters today. The next one (though not actually next in the rank as it turns out, meaning I almost did the lava lines wrong) completed, and a second with the skin almost done (just the red washes left for it):
Three (including the WiP above) left in this unit now.
I finished up the rest of the Bloodletter unit, avoiding a series of progressive yet boring one-model updates:
This photo mistakenly has one from a previous update instead of one of the new ones - painting them out of order confused me sufficiently, it seems. The unit is now complete, however, and I'll show a full picture once the movement tray is finished. Speaking of which...
This thing has been far more effort than it really should have been. You see, this unit (like many others in my Daemon armies) had a movement tray built already, using the modular movement tray kit I bought some years ago. What the kit doesn't warn you, though, is that the squares it marks out for unit sizes are worthless - the edge pieces add another couple of milimetres to each edge, making the tray far too large for the unit in question (I believe I've touched on this issue before). In order to satisfy my relentless perfectionism, I ripped the thing apart in order to make it smaller, sanding down two of the edges by about 4mm each. As you can see from the photo, it has taken a lot of repairs to get back to a useable state - but get there it has, despite having to carve huge chunks out of the inside back edge to make the models fit smoothly. It is in fact finished as I speak, but the basing material isn't yet dry from sealing.
I've also started on the next task:
Wow, I gotta say I love the lava bases and the striking color scheme! I wonder if you're starting to get "color fatigue" like I did with green. You've painted a lot of red after all! Have you thought of using the liquid green stuff to fill in the gaps? I have yet to use it but it should be a lot less work than using green stuff putty. Nice stuff regardless.
Kinband Sereglas - my autumn themed wood elves
Thank you very much
Just a littleTo be fair, it's really only the Blood Red highlights on the skin that are a bit of a chore - every other step is either short, straightforward, or just plain fun to paint.
I hadn't, but I did fill in the gaps on the heads of the newest rank of Bloodletters with normal Green Stuff, and I must admit it does make the ones still with gaps a lot more noticeable. I'm certainly considering fixing all of the currently finished ones in a similar way, and just painting it over - the areas of skin they usually occupy don't get any highlights so would only require Red Gore and a bit of Baal Red.
Love the Mantic skellies, the khorne daemons also look great - top lava/just out of the furnace effects - the contrast between the bases and the figures also seems to make them look like they are glowing, really nice effects.
Member of J.A.D.E.DTrying to convince Warseer that GW are anything less than perfect is like trying to teach a horde of zombies that lettuce is a perfectly acceptable alternative to brains.
Lest we forget
Thank you
Managed to get the Bloodcrusher's rider done today:
His eyes look strangely small but I'm certain they match the other Bloodletters, so must be the photo. Camera's can do such odd things to miniatures...
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Darnok
