New Citadel Paints (Was Gossip - GW paints to be discontinued in march)

[lbecks]

They'll probably start selling pre-diluted paints for our Benefit lol.

I actually wouldn't be surprised if they did this. Call them "Citadel Glazes" and make it a 3 part painting system. Put on base coat of foundation paint. Apply your favorite citadel wash for shading. Highlight with citadel glaze paint.

I also wouldn't expect them to change their bottle type. Everything would be "paint from bottle" -ready.

[Grimstonefire]

Quite a bit actually, the top money makers (as in everything including models) for GW are Chaos black and Skull white.

AFAIK Chaos Black is the thing they've sold the most of. Not necessarily that it's their top money maker (which I presume must be something SM related).

Paint can't have that much profit margin.

[gilljoy]

Really dont like this,

I've slowly started using vallejo paint alot more than GW. Most of the paint I use is still GW paints but thats just lazyness and impatience on my part since getting some vallejo paints is a hassle.

I'll just switch completely now to vallejo, stuff GW

[GomezAddams]

Thing is, the washes and foundation paints have been massively successful for a reason - anyone can use them to knock out a decent figure.

The last GW paint I used was foundation - aside from that, despite having a box full of them I simply don't bother any more. VMC usually has more pigment, has less problems, and is far cheaper.

You also have, seemingly, more companies in the market. Whilst Vallejo model color probably caters more to the model kit painter, you have companies like Privateer taking a chunk of the pie. I mean, Army Painter are launching a line of 36 paints and they seem to be keeping it limited to that. Not only that but they also offer a match with there spray paints which is a big selling point for army builders.

So.. if you want to paint armies, GW is likely to be still offering something and if not army painter will fill the breach. If you want more detail, variation etc, it might be worth looking at Vallejo. On the other hand if you don't like change, go get coat d'arms

[xxRavenxx]

As an interesting aside, when we talk about popularity -

I still have multiple pots of Desert Yellow, Bubonic Brown and Kommando Khaki paint in the old pot style, whereas 90% of other colours have needed at least one reorder.

There is DEFINATELY a trend in which colours get used.

Business question - If three similar colours all sell poorly, why not bin two, and hope the third picks up some steam from being the midground?

[New Cult King]

They do? Do they brush on smooth?

Yes, and the... I don't know, glitter? in the paint is much finer than GW's. They are simply excellent.

[BobtheInquisitor]

Thing about Vallejo game color is that it sucks (yes IMHO). Last time GW did this I invested heavily into the VGC line, and ended up tossing the bunch. But I know the feeling: I used to use Jade Green for the uniforms for my Palmyrans (historical army...I have them in both 25mm and 15mm!), and that was axed in the last round of cuts.

I may re-invest in Coat d'Arms, but it won't be easily as I'm pretty heavily invested in GW paints, and I know how they "work..."

Damon.

We had the same problem with Vallejo. As a rather indifferent painter, I didn't notice it so much until my wife told me never to buy any more Vallejo paints again. We gave away our entire stock of them.

Unfortunately, I too was one of the victims of the great Brazen Brass purge. I sure hope GW doesn't do anything drastic...

I use model color as it is extensive and provides lots of shades not found i other ranges. All Vallejo paints need to be shaken a lot. I have a big pot of their sepia wash and that you need to shake for around 5 minutes other wise you get a very streaky finish. I also watered it down a little and it works a treat and is a bargain for the amount of wash that get.

5 MINUTES? Streaky Finish? I think I'll stick with GW washes or ink + Future Floor Wax.

[Wil Grand]

They'll probably start selling pre-diluted paints for our Benefit lol.

Why not, they'd just be copying the Saintly Vallejo's Model Air ranges.

[xxRavenxx]

Why not, they'd just be copying the Saintly Vallejo's Model Air ranges.

Shh. Vallejo do no such thing. There's an angels smile in every bottle you know...

[Wil Grand]

Well that's what the range is, same paint but watered down for airbrushes and the same price.
Can't stand Vallejo, I've got better things to be doing than shaking a bottle for that long. And game colour looks like marzepan on a model.
I love GW paints since I've grown used to them and they smell wonderful. Foundations stink, especially the gnarlock green.

Paint of choice is Coat d'arms, though. Brilliant.

[New Cult King]

I don't really understand the mockery of Vallejo's stuff. I find their paints great, and they have more variation in their... scales of colour? Like, they have more than 3 flesh tones, and about 4 different shades of white. They are great to use.

[xxRavenxx]

I was mocking it because Wil was right on the pre-diluted paints.

The thing is this though:

I don't believe that any of the big ranges is better than any other. Each has uses. Each has flaws. Each has some terrible paints lurking about.

For example:
P3 - great for bright colours, terrible metals, can be streaky
GW - Good metals, foundations and washes. Terrible yellows and beiges.
Vallejo - Good range of colours, most paints are good. Lots of waste from their bottles, many browns too watery.
Humbrol - Mostly like painting syrup onto your models, smoke and varnish are amazing though.


I think cults arise round each range. Those who know better will use any and all paint ranges to get the top selection.

[Inquisitor Kallus]

They are great for layering, not for blending (Vallejo)

[New Cult King]

I would like to try P3. GW's Foundations and Washes are a godsend.

Haven't tried any of the Humbrol stuff, but I'm pretty sure the hobby shop where I get my Vallejo stuff would have it.

I don't understand the cult mentality. I'm one who uses whatever best suits at the time.

[Verm1s]

I don't really understand the mockery of Vallejo's stuff.

I do.

I think cults arise round each range. Those who know better will use any and all paint ranges to get the top selection.

Testify. And I'll add Ral Partha Europe's Miniature Paints to the mix. Some iffy blues and greens, but all part of a great variety of colours.

[prowla]

So they'll now sell paints with air bubbles?

No, it's actually the missing grains of fine cast resin that get added up into the new revolutionary FineCastPaint - it's a paint and a filler in same pot!

[Darsc Zacal]

I much prefer Reapers line over Vallejo's, although it too is a thinner paint which means I still use a fair bit of Citadels stuff for large areas and often as a base.

[shelfunit.]

Despite the unfortunate timing of it's release I rather liked the liquid GS, so I will be keeping an open mind about whatever this new release is. I own (and use) GW, Vallejo and Coat d'Arms (sp?) paints, and have very little bad to say about any of them. I mainly drifted away from the GW paints solely due to price, as all the main paints are basically identical quality.

[Havock]

Well, I think except foundation & washes, I'll go to coat of arms too...
I juste HATE when they remove some paint. What's the point of removing 5-6 colours? How much do they win by doing this?
In 10 years there will only be black, white, scorched brown, greenskin, ultramarine blue & blood angel red in the mega paint set

Don't forget the gold. You have to be able to paint Ultramarines you know.

[~Revenant~]

Pro Tip

Go to your local art store ( or better yet an online discount art store ), look for:

Winsor & Newton drawing ink.

It's cheap, comes in glass bottles and you will get far far more than what GW was ( I'm pretty sure ) reselling and bottling smaller.

It's professional artists ink, it has more ink range than GW did and works lovely.

You guys should also learn the skill of MIXING paints, quite a few of GW's paints can easily be mixed and since your not going to be doing a half a$$ed job slapping on thick paint you should be watering them down out of the pot and blending/layering which involves mixing in the first place.

Midnight blue is complete garbage coverage wise compared to necron abyss btw.

Gw in the 80s and 90s was pathetic with gold, you know what they used to do ?

Paint burnished gold and wash it with brown or purple ink mixture, outline paint burnished gold on top of it and call it done, no mix of silver or anything that all the ero pros brought ( and that EM stole! ).

You want the old bronze that's gone ? mix in a drop of scorched brown cmon don't be lazy!

Lastly, THE top brand of paint in the entire world right now ( don't believe me ? look on handprint for the facts ) is M.Graham...it's non toxic, has the highest pigment load out of any single artists paint brand currently ( daniel smith is a close second ), it's cheap and has a huge range and made in acrylic along with wc and oil.

How does the very highest pigment load of scorched brown ( burnt umber basically ) in 60 ml sound for around $4-5 vs TWELVE ML of gw half the quality sound to you ? that's not counting ( and I don't suggest keeping these around muppets, children or any kind of idiot who will eventually die of cancer from ingesting these lmao ) cadmium red, orange and yellow which will blow you away if you have never seen how rich these are.

There IS pro artist grade paints out on the market that can easily handle miniatures, and for the record any paint is eventually going to "Rub off" if you don't seal the mini, doing so can also get rid of the shine the current washes leave ~.^ The truth of the matter is that unless you are painting in official GW shops, there is better and cheaper quality out there, along with some really cool mediums that you can find at art shops that will improve certain painting techniques on minis.

One mega alternative to sand for example of ANY brands, is stucko textured fine acylic gel, you won't ever use school glue and worrying about sand cracking over time, this stuff hardens to a plastic layer almost of what looks like sand, and you simple paint over it, great for coating styrafoam too for rocks etc or bark.

Just gotta do research on these things, even Valejo is just "alright" compared to some hardcore highly lightfast ( that means it won't fade till the time your dust in the ground ) and extreme pigment load cheapish paints on the market ( these tubes would last you YEARS for what your painting on ).

Let's have a serious look here for a moment at color difference ( general rule is the more color/pigment you add the better paint looks btw ) between W&N drawing inks ( what gw used to sell before their "Glazes" ) vs current GW washes....and since there is no yellow wash currently ( lulz ) it creates some mixing problems but the point is you can still buy yellow ink and many other shades, mix them yourself, dilute them yourself and buy cheap flow retardent ( which is the kinda gel stuff with gw washes anyway ) and make them yourself and better quality.

And another example, of high pigment paints ( these are watercolor but made in acrylic also only solid rather than translucent ), you can see how strong and amazing these colors are vs many of the ones people are used to.