New Citadel Paints (Was Gossip - GW paints to be discontinued in march)

[Killgore]

I'm very impressed with the Ceramite white (but disappointed my ones in a older pot design), I can now paint the annoying white bits on my shoulder pads without having to do more then 2-3 coats for good look over a silver/ black basecoat

Nuln Oil- seems better then Badab black, needed less of it to get my desired effect

[MajorWesJanson]

I have found that Khorne Red not only is near identical to Red Gore, but it covers far better. Between it and Leadbelcher, my marines have pretty much survived the great paint change untouched, if not improved.

[Jonahmaul]

This is good news as I found Red Gore such a useless colour!

[MajorWesJanson]

This is good news as I found Red Gore such a useless colour!

Yeah. I read the conversion chart, and got Mepheston Red at first, but it is much brighter, like halfway between Red Gore and Blood Red. I ended up with Khorne Red, which when it dried, looks near identical to Red Gore. And it is a base, so no more need to do Mech Red then 2-3 layers of Red Gore, or 5-6 layers of Red Gore alone.

[Lars Porsenna]

Yeah. I read the conversion chart, and got Mepheston Red at first, but it is much brighter, like halfway between Red Gore and Blood Red. I ended up with Khorne Red, which when it dried, looks near identical to Red Gore. And it is a base, so no more need to do Mech Red then 2-3 layers of Red Gore, or 5-6 layers of Red Gore alone.

Khorne red sounds like a winner! That'll make painting World Eaters for me so much easier (my technique for the plastic berzerkers is to spraypaint the entire model with Testors Gold, paint the red areas mechrite red, then Red Gore to get the final color; sounds like this will be a one-shot deal...)

Damon.

[dark_wulf]

I have jsut started painting my army (read base colours on two test minis). Should I ditch my old paint and get new to stop colour differences?

[dax]

Cadian Fleshtone is noticeably lighter than Tallarn Flesh so does anyone have any Ratskin Flesh to compare it to Tallarn Flesh. It looks very orangey in White Dwarf but it's a terrible picture I don't want to buy it if it's not close. I got some Vallejo Heavy Skintone and it's closer than Cadian Fleshtone but it still isn't Tallarn Flesh.

Dark_Wulf if I was just starting a new army and couldn't gaurantee I'd have enough of the old paints I'd use the new paints as much as possible none of the new paints match the old ones in colour no matter what the conversion chart says they're all a shade out either slightly darker or slightly lighter. Even the Vallejo Game colours aren't exact matches for the old range.

[librerian_samae]

Managed to get to my local(ish) Gw today, I was given a seat and 17 or so of the new paints etc and a sea gaurd and told to have fun after enquiring bout the new paints.

I used the base white (ceramite?), base blue (kantor), lead beltcher, clalaban green and mepsiton red over black primer.

The red was very vibrant and covered well, the blue was just gorgeous and the white went on in just 2 thin coats!

Lead beltcher didn't have any black streaks like I'm used to with old dark silvers from GW and covered well althogh it seemed thicker than the others I tried somehow.

I used drakenhoff night shade blue as a shade which gave a wonderful hue over lead beltcher and gave nice definition over the dark blue base.

Layers wise I only really tried out building up the robes in blue with calgar which made the blue pop nicely, although I would have prefered a tad darker layer over the base blue if I had had a better selection BUT the next point saved this...

...Waywatcher green glaze tied the blues very nicely together really enriching them and helping them blend nicely. Over the metal it combined with the blue wash to give a very nice sea like haze to the silver

For the seaweed I was stuck with the green base (calaban) which seemed more pastel like the old foundations compared to the other bases but turned out nicely after the glaze was applied (waywatcher again).

After the model itself was done I tried the texture paints on the base before dry brushing. You really need a good glob and an old brush to get the best of these but I think it held up well to my experiences with sanding bases, I used the armagedon dust to try and represent a beach in the end.

Finally one all the layers and glazes and textures were done I cracked out some dry paints, etherium blue, necron compound and underhive ash. Now I didn't really get very good results apart from on the base but I think that was more down to me being timid with the amount of paint and the way I was applying the stuff, due to using quite an unmolested brush, they seemed to have promise though.

All in all I loved the consistency, coverage and vibrancy of the ones I tried. Seemed to be a good replacement to the old lot.

As an aside Myself and the staffer both looked at using the textures as 'mud' effects on cloaks/boots/lower armour etc. With a light touch, some blending retouch on the under colour and a good bit of dry brushing the effect looked very nice, as long as you used a single tiny thin layer spread out lots it looks good to go .

Hope This can be of use to people, I highly recommend just grabbing a test model and going crazy for your self as these new paints were just so fun to play around with.

[Scribe of Khorne]

Is there something close to Black->Mechrite->Devlan Mud? Something like Black->Mephiston->Nuln Oil? Or is the Oil too black for that to work?

[TheMav80]

I am a little unclear as to what the Glaze, Dry, and Technical lines are supposed to be for. I assume the Shades are just like the current Washes. The Texture line sounds really awesome and would love to try those out. I don't have a GW around here, so not much chance of being able to just randomly give it a go without buying them first.

[Vaulkhar]

As I understand it:

Glazes are essentially very thin, almost transparent washes. The idea is that you use them to add a very slight tint to another colour (for example the recommendation on the GW website uses Underhive Ash followed by a Waywatcher green glaze as the extreme highlight).

Technicals seem to be more of an 'odds and ends' line - stuff that's useful but doesn't really fit anywhere else.

The Dry range is for drybrushing. There's very little medium (hence the term dry), so what you get is...sludge isn't quite the right word...but the idea is that the 'load brush, wipe off paint, brush onto model' method of drybrushing doesn't get spoiled by the paint being too liquid.

[zoggin-eck]

I am a little unclear as to what the Glaze, Dry, and Technical lines are supposed to be for.

Hasn't this been answered numerous times in this thread already? Regardless, if you can stomach the GW description/commercial, their own website says enough to answer it.

Glaze has been done before by them, and others, so nothing new.

Dry, I personally like, but then again I like using a drybrushing/washing combo. The ones I've used all seem to go on well, whereas some "normal" paints can't really be used for drybrushing. For most colours, I'll just stick to ordinary paint.

I'm amazed so many people still get hung up on the "technical" paints. Just read the names of the four in the range, since these are about the only ones that actually say what they are (unlike the "blue" dry paint, which is just grey with little blue in it). Medium is medium, primer is primer, 'ardcoat is a hard coat/varnish and liquid greenstuff is, well, you get the idea, I hope!

[Jonahmaul]

I have finally tried some of the new paints so can offer my opinions such as they are. I've only tried three of them, Rakarth Flesh base (I love this colour, it's great), Screamer Pink base (its purple), and Emporer Children pink layer. Although this is limited I'm impressed. Both the bases wenty over black with two thinned down coats, they probably would've gone over in one if I hadn't thinned them but I'm not comfortable not thinning painted! I found they were nicer than foundations as they were less pastle like and they also thinned a lot better. I found that if you thin foundation with water on a palette it seems to split (easily solved by just mixing again with a brush to be fair) but the case didn't seem to do this. The layer was pretty much like the old colour paints, I thinned this and it went on nicely.

[Gharnukk]

Started a thread in the painting section of this forum and it was shut down after just two replies redirecting me here.
What I was curious about was the quality of the new paints compared to the "old" ones since I have a lot of paints
at home. But I wont spend around £60 on new ones if the paints are too much alike. I want my Empire army to look
stunning and pretty fast to paint. Are the texture paints any good? My worries are thatthe paint will peel off since
there are no glue involved. And how long may I pot last, seems expensive to base an entire army with it.

[Shadow_Steed]

Started a thread in the painting section of this forum and it was shut down after just two replies redirecting me here.
What I was curious about was the quality of the new paints compared to the "old" ones since I have a lot of paints
at home. But I wont spend around £60 on new ones if the paints are too much alike. I want my Empire army to look
stunning and pretty fast to paint. Are the texture paints any good? My worries are thatthe paint will peel off since
there are no glue involved. And how long may I pot last, seems expensive to base an entire army with it.

Hi, I actually saw your post and was redirected here.

I have only tried one paint thus far: Rhinox Hide. It is a base colour, and it runs far far better than the old foundation paints.

[Mr Ogre]

Started a thread in the painting section of this forum and it was shut down after just two replies redirecting me here.
What I was curious about was the quality of the new paints compared to the "old" ones since I have a lot of paints
at home. But I wont spend around £60 on new ones if the paints are too much alike. I want my Empire army to look
stunning and pretty fast to paint. Are the texture paints any good? My worries are thatthe paint will peel off since
there are no glue involved. And how long may I pot last, seems expensive to base an entire army with it.

Not sure it will peel off a base anymore than paint peels off plastic? It used to be a problem with sand and PVA (well, once in a while!) but I don't think it will be a problem.

[MajorWesJanson]

I personally will not be using the texture paints for my bases, as I have so many done with the glued sand. That said, I got a pot to try on the base of my Titan, as that would be a pain to try to sand. Works quite well. Nice irregular texture, rather easy to apply. The base is resin, not plastic, but sticks quite well. Rubbing hard on it when it is dry did knock off a few grains, but otherwise the stuff acted more like sand paper and hurt my finger instead.

My next new paint is the base yellow, Averland Sun. Will tell of how I find it if there is interest.

[Lone_Gunmen]

Bought $100-120 (Aussie dollars) worth of the paints the other day to replace my old paints that have dried up over the last 6 years since my last major paint overhaul. I'm really impressed with the sheer amount of colours available, I've been using them exclusively (with the exception of Devlan Mud and Kemri Brown) on my Tallarn Imperial Guard army for Armies on Parade. I got:

Screaming Bell
Jokaero Orange
Castellan Green
Daemonette Hide
Naggaroth Night
Tallarn Sand
Zamesi Desert
Karak Stone
Waargh Flesh
Ushabti Bone
Wildrider Red
Bestigor Flesh
Elysian Green
Golden Griffon
Terminatus Stone
Lucius Lillac
Drakenhof Nightshade
Lamian Medium
Stirland Mud
Blackfire Earth
Liquid Greenstuff.

[zoggin-eck]

What I was curious about was the quality of the new paints compared to the "old" ones since I have a lot of paints
at home.

Call me crazy, but if you were to read the 20 odd pages of reviews in this thread you might just get your answer? Have a flick through the painting pages for people who've bought some.

I actually have no idea why you'd think the textured paint would "peel off", but for what it's worth, it doesn't

Where did you get the 60 pounds worth of paint figure from? Nobody said you need to replace all your paints. I've got a paint collection of differnt suppliers going back 18 years, and the six new paints I've bought so far fit in nicely. If there's a colour you think will compliment your current models, give it a go, or think about replacing some paints as they run out. People put an amazing emphasis on matching colours 100%. I think this is silly, unless your army is something like marines all painted the same, which is cool too. All of you with orc/ork, skaven, chaos and so on, use new paint as a excuse to paint something a little different! (I got my first p3 paints recently, and have been having great fun with colours and styles I've never tried before).

[Gharnukk]

Call me crazy, but if you were to read the 20 odd pages of reviews in this thread you might just get your answer? Have a flick through the painting pages for people who've bought some.

I actually have no idea why you'd think the textured paint would "peel off", but for what it's worth, it doesn't

Where did you get the 60 pounds worth of paint figure from? Nobody said you need to replace all your paints. I've got a paint collection of differnt suppliers going back 18 years, and the six new paints I've bought so far fit in nicely. If there's a colour you think will compliment your current models, give it a go, or think about replacing some paints as they run out. People put an amazing emphasis on matching colours 100%. I think this is silly, unless your army is something like marines all painted the same, which is cool too. All of you with orc/ork, skaven, chaos and so on, use new paint as a excuse to paint something a little different! (I got my first p3 paints recently, and have been having great fun with colours and styles I've never tried before).

Fair enough With 56 pages and going I just thought it would be faster to ask. The £60 is my math from the paints that I would like to try on my Empire. And its not GW prices because I order from Waylandgames/Maelstrom.