Looking for airbrush advice

[Grizzlybeer]

Hey guys, I've checked out the lovely airbrush stickies up there, but I have some questions that weren't answered in them, plus some personal feedback would be great.

Anyways, I got a really cheap kit on eBay 'cause I figured I may as well start out with something small. You truly do get what you pay for - the trigger mechanism on the AB is horrid. Plus, the small piston compressor overheats rapidly. With the amount of enjoyment I got from using an airbrush to paint (just basecoating & preshading for now) I figured I may as well invest in a decent setup.

I'm thinking of getting the Badger Patriot 105 for the AB, and this compressor http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/d3000.html . This setup will cost me around $240, and I'd like to keep it at that price level.

So then I have a few questions keeping all of this in mind.

1. How does one go about priming with the airbrush? I have no idea where to get primer that's not in a can and if I'm going to be painting piece by piece it would be convenient to do it with the AB
2. Having trigger problems isn't a normal occurrence if I get a decent AB, is it?
3. Would getting a small compressor with a tank from a hardware store do the trick just as well? I know there are some attachments to buy, what are they called? This is the compressor in question, for example: http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...gkw=compressor
4. Do most small piston compressors overheat after 10-15 mins of continuous spray?

Would love to get some feedback on this!

[Vex]

They do sell primer in jars but why not just buy a rattle can and prime with that.
A dual action brush is good to have. I've read good reviews about the Badger 105.
Are you thinking of a water trap or regulator?
I have a Badger compressor, a small one like your Ace hardware example and an 11 gallon one and none of them over heated with air brush use.
With the Badger it runs nearly all the time since it doesn't have a tank. The other 2 only run to refill the tank and then shut off.
And for practice I always recommend using food coloring.

[prowla]

1) Yep, primers in a can work for airbrushing too. You can spray the primer through the AB as well, but if it's solvent-based you need to clean the AB after that. There's also primers in all the AB color product series.
2) Depends what kind of trigger problems you have. Airbrushes do need some maintenance, and can be have problems if paint isn't thin enough.
3) Any oil-free compressor does the trick, or one with an additional oil trap. However those hardware store ones are ment for construction use and are really loud. If you have the option of placing the compressor outside your workspace, then one of those cheap ones might work. Some people have tank setups: they get a compressor with a large tank, fill it up outside, then work with it until it runs dry.
4) Most AB compressors are designed for long-term use, but of course the cheaper ones don't always work so well. Bigger (and more expensive) you get, smaller setting you need and less likely it is for it to overheat. In general, ABing is very light work for compressors, it's really the size/noise that is problematic.

[Iron Puritan]

Hey guys, I've checked out the lovely airbrush stickies up there, but I have some questions that weren't answered in them, plus some personal feedback would be great.

Anyways, I got a really cheap kit on eBay 'cause I figured I may as well start out with something small. You truly do get what you pay for - the trigger mechanism on the AB is horrid. Plus, the small piston compressor overheats rapidly. With the amount of enjoyment I got from using an airbrush to paint (just basecoating & preshading for now) I figured I may as well invest in a decent setup.

I'm thinking of getting the Badger Patriot 105 for the AB, and this compressor http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/d3000.html . This setup will cost me around $240, and I'd like to keep it at that price level.

So then I have a few questions keeping all of this in mind.

1. How does one go about priming with the airbrush? I have no idea where to get primer that's not in a can and if I'm going to be painting piece by piece it would be convenient to do it with the AB
2. Having trigger problems isn't a normal occurrence if I get a decent AB, is it?
3. Would getting a small compressor with a tank from a hardware store do the trick just as well? I know there are some attachments to buy, what are they called? This is the compressor in question, for example:
4. http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...gkw=compressor
5. Do most small piston compressors overheat after 10-15 mins of continuous spray?

Would love to get some feedback on this!

1. Vallejo makes a polyurethane primer you can spray with an airbrush. Another option is Mr. Surfacer, made by GSI Creos (formerly Gunze Sangyo). A couple of the items in that line are airbrushable, but they can be hard to find.
2. No, trigger problems are not normal with a properly maintained airbrush made by any of the major airbrush manufacturers. A quality airbrush will be machined to a high standard, so it should last for a long time if taken care of.
3. Brand is not overly important to the whole equation for basic airbrushing. Having a reservoir can be handy for longer airbrushing sessions. One very key accessory you would need for such a compressor is an inline oil trap. Another is a moisture trap - and they now make pressure regulators with integral moisture traps which can be rather convenient.
4. Not necessarily 10 - 15 minutes, but they can overheat and that should be kept in mind when airbrushing for extended periods of time. I think this can vary between makes and models, so YMMV.

Something to consider with Badgers: They are available through Michaels and that store loves to give out 40% off coupons on their website. That might be worth looking into.

Edit: Some compressors are oil free and would not need an oil trap, so that's a case by case sort of deal.

[Iron Puritan]

1) Yep, primers in a can work for airbrushing too. You can spray the primer through the AB as well, but if it's solvent-based you need to clean the AB after that. There's also primers in all the AB color product series.
2) Depends what kind of trigger problems you have. Airbrushes do need some maintenance, and can be have problems if paint isn't thin enough.
3) Any compressor does the trick, however those hardware store ones are ment for construction use and are really loud. If you have the option of placing the compressor outside your workspace, then one of those cheap ones might work. Some people have tank setups: they get a large tank, fill it up with a loud cheap compressor outside, then work with it until it runs dry.
4) Most AB compressors are designed for long-term use, but of course the cheaper ones don't always work so well. Bigger (and more expensive) you get, smaller setting you need and less likely it is for it to overheat. In general, ABing is very light work for compressors, it's really the size/noise that is problematic.

Not sure if I'd recommend decanting rattle can primer and airbrushing it. Something like the Vallejo polyurethane primer would be better.

You make a very good point about noise. They do make silent compressors, but they can be pricey. Definitely makes checking reviews a priority as people often point this sort of thing out.

[prowla]

Not sure if I'd recommend decanting rattle can primer and airbrushing it. Something like the Vallejo polyurethane primer would be better.

You make a very good point about noise. They do make silent compressors, but they can be pricey. Definitely makes checking reviews a priority as people often point this sort of thing out.

Oh, I ment that solvent-based paints are available for airbrush use, too. I've heard they are becoming less common, though, as there are stricter health regulations even in automobile painting now - there's pressure for everything to go water-based. I've never tried decanting stuff, I've heard some people do it, though.

Those Vallejo urethane primers look interesting, I need to look into those.

[Iron Puritan]

Ok, I misunderstood. You are absolutely correct about the hobby market moving away from solvents in a big way, with fewer options suitable for scale modeling as time goes on. A lot of the solvent-based stuff that is available nowadays is intended for custom automotive and motorcycle work, which would add some logistical challenges to the equation in terms of additional ventilation and personal protective equipment.

As far as decanting goes, airbrushes can spray a bewildering amount of liquids, but my understanding is that decanted aerosols can be hit or miss. Having said that, you can often get great results using products like Windex or Future in an off-label way.

[intercepta]

What about the airbrush itself guys, I have read on some forums that the brand doesn't make a great deal of difference because if the nib is xxx size on one its the same on them all, this is the one i found and it looks like its a very small manufacturer.

sorry to hijack this thread a bit but it seems relevant

[Iron Puritan]

That's only true to a limited extent. Take a look at Iwata's and Badger's websites and you'll see that as you go upwards through their product line that you move from basic airbrushes which will have a lot in common to higher end options with more individual combinations of features. What separates the major brand names apart from some of their more obscure competition is fit and finish. Their lower end models are still built to a fair standard of quality, so one of their airbrushes should last a long time, even if it is a no frills model. A little extra money and you could get an airbrush that will last you ages. Some guys I've run into have been using the same airbrush for decades - and we're talking just basic models here too.There are plenty of reviews out there, so it is worth your time to do some research before buying.

Having said that, some of the big players have been making greater strides to put out introductory level airbrushes. The Neo by Iwata is worth looking into if you don't want to sink a lot of money into an airbrush. It's pretty similar to a number of the regular Iwata airbrushes with the only major difference being that they are made in Taiwan instead of Japan.

[Vex]

Why are people talking about decanting primer from a rattle can?
Spray the primer from the can.
It's just primer.

Save the airbrush work for your good paints.

[Iron Puritan]

Like I said, decanting isn't something I'd recommend over an actual airbrush primer. Airbrushes give a painter more control than a rattle can. It can be very helpful to preserve detail, especially if you are painting something like 15mm or 10mm scale items. It can also be helpful in obtaining an even coat over large surfaces like a 1:35 scale model. There are also some logistical aspects (fumes, sensitivity to temperature and humidity, etc.) to consider with aerosols that are not as big an issue if you are set up to do airbrushing.

The same thing also applies to varnishes.

[relicpainting]

I own the patriot 105 and the renegade krome, bought both at the same time about 6 months ago and I haven't even used the krome yet. The 105 is that great. It comes with 2 nozzles, also bought the inspire compressor with a gallon tank. I've been airbrushing the new citadel paints @ about 15-17psi, at about 6-8 inches with no problems, no hazing ,no issues.
Also the 105 is really easy to tear down and clean. Mind you this was my 1st grav fed ab since I come from a long line of Aztec users, father and uncle both used the same brush that I have now,lol.
Also I've been thinning my paints about 1/1 with tamiya X20a acrylic thinner,by far the best thinner I've used yet. Hope this helps. Also one last thing, I bought my setup from webairbrushes.com got a really good deal at the time.

[Grizzlybeer]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I've thus far bought myself the Badger 105, and I'm looking around for a decent compressor now. I've tried a cheap hardware compressor, and had a horrid experience with it because it wouldn't even max out at its supposed max psi, and it was deafeningly loud. I had a small knock-off sprint-jet type ofcompressor earlier, but constantly worrying about it overheating and the uneven airflow nearly made me go crazy. I'm willing to spend up to $150, and am thinking of getting this guy: http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/d3000.html . Since it's small, quiet, and has a tank, I figured it would be a nice option. If anyone has any other suggestions do let me know! Anything that's cheaper and/or better would be great 'cause I'm already stretching thin, being a college student and all...

[relicpainting]

That's a decent compressor, at least it has a tank. Definitely get one with a tank.