The Mars Warlord Titan Project

[fiore hellheart]

Haha, thanks, Yea, it really isn't that necessary, the internal structure makes it really strong as is. I decided to try it just then so I stood putting my full weight on the octagonal 'puck' like piece. Didn't do a thing. I think people underestimate the strength of some good supports. Aside from that I'll be having the leg parts will be cast up in resin anyway, which will probably make them weaker, but means I can try to make a more of them, and don't have to do as much work, if it goes well that is. I don't think I'm going to be completely content with just one of these...

[AlexCrute]

I hereby solemnly charge thee, in mine authoritative capacity as anonymous internet-gazer, to proceed forthwith in all haste with exceeding skill and rigidity of purpose, to pursue to your perfect satisfaction the completion of this most glorious martian monstrosity (and multiples thereof) documented herein.

This project has visible potential to produce the best and most marvellous warlord titans ever fabricated by man. Until Forgeworld does them, but that's what you're competing with.

[AlexCrute]

Gaaaaaaaaaah!

[fiore hellheart]

Henceforth I shall attempt in all my skill and honour to achieve those goals of great hood passed unto me by the judging eyes of the internet anonymous. This model shall be great or I shall die trying...

Thanks AlexCrute, Though I don't think my titan will beat the ones built by dave smith and rebuilt by blackadder, both are fantastic models and really good inspiration. But I'd quite like to see if I can manage to build something approaching that good a model. Thanks for the olde speak compliments anyway Not sure about the gaaaaaaaaah however :P

Well, some more progress and pictures.






The toe armour piece has now been mostly plated right, I have a panel I intend to redo however. In the last photo of the two you should be able to see that the narrowest end to the right doesn't lie flat. When I sanded the rough edges down I didn't notice it hadn't glued properly, letting me over sand it down, I tried to get it to work but having looked at it I'll just redo the plate there. Shouldn't be too difficult.





This is the connector piece I showed before with the edging added. I still need to sand down the edging at the ends, but the middle parts I'm satisfied with, I need to put rivets on this afterwards then should have my first finished part.






This is the ankle cap circle thingy, I could really come up with a definitive name for this part... It's been reinforced with spacers between the two circles and is waiting to have the filler applied so that it is sanded down to a cylinder. The cog detail is glued onto another circle which will go on the side, as the other circle has been placed. The detail on the cog itself was redone because I wasn't quite happy with how even the smaller indented circles on the edges were. Hence the comparison shot, I know there isn't a huge change but felt more comfortable with it a little neater.





Somewhat blurry picture of the toe mid piece, I only need to apply the filler now, it's been sanded down on all sides and I'm happy with the seamless appearance. I've been using my phone for the photo's, but I might need to steal a camera that can handle a bit of macro in order to show some of the finer detail when I get started.





I've blutacked in place the circle connector thing to show the placement. The grey plastic paste stuff, which is a mixture of old sprue and some of the liquid solvent I use, makes it appear unsmooth, but it actually is. Again this is showing the more seamless effect of the sanding, and is another piece that's awaiting the filler before I can add the last detail to it.





The Edges on the foot base have also been finished, now I need to begin to build another slightly raised section on the part to give the beveled edge. This is why I've left a lip to the edges. This will let me push the angled plates into the edge so that they have some extra support, and that when it's sanded it appears even.


Not sure how much work I'll have done today. It's my school's leavers ball so I'm occupied for the evening. But I'll try to do some stuff during the day.

[fiore hellheart]

Short update for today's stuff



I fixed the problem mentioned before with the over sanded plate. Didnt take long as I expected which was handy.



I also got around to using the filler, this first application is more of a rough coat. After sanding this down, hence the smooth parts, I'll apply another coat and sand that down, hopefully that will leave me with a very smooth curved surface, onto which I can build the edging and the box for the connector to attach to.



The ankle cap was also filled, here you can see another part that's lower than the desired level hence needing a top up before sanding again.



Same again with the toe, although this is much more roughly filled as I didn't mix enough to completely fill the cavity, I should have reduced it's size really, but it will be fine after a second coat another day.



The ankle joint. This needs the second coat obviously, but I may decided It's easier to search for an appropriate diameter tube, that's if this doesn't work well enough, but I have hopes it should suffice.



The toe midpart has been filled in enough, this will now get close to me finishing it as I need to add some small detail now and it's effectively done.

That's what I've been up to this morning, I may get some more work done when I return from my prom. I often stay up to between 4 and 6 in the morning doing work, I find I think clearer then. So there might be an update tomorrow morning or if not, then the evening.

[fiore hellheart]

I started of tonight by beginning the curved heel plate, it was quite daunting and I think I was avoiding it slightly, but I pressed on. This is the way I'm choosing to give it internal structure, the two walls are assembled from lots of fixed width rectangles. Because I was sure to make all the angles, right angles, when I joined two of the plates together to make the curve, they stand perpendicular, meaning the entire wall has a uniform height. This just means I can easily build another layer on top. The walls are slightly behind the edge of the true curve as I will fill the created gap with the filler, smoothing to give the curved plate.






This shows the end curve where a gap exists so that the ankle caps don't intersect. To build this I cut each of the vertical pieces according to my templates and spaced them correctly before adding spacers between to provide support. The spacers also guarantee they are perpendicular. I built two of these, and this is just showing the placement on the heel piece. Compare this to the back plate of the foot on the renders if anybody wasn't sure what I meant.





I will be continuing to build the centre part to match the height needed. This is just using the same wall method as before, take ages though so it shall be completed another day. Once that is completed I'll begin to apply filler just as in the other curved pieces.





I have finished a piece, just the toe armour connecter, but it is detailed as much as I wish. For the rivets I'm using some 1mm diameter steel balls. I got them on ebay on some craft shop. To place them; I drill a hole with a 1mm drill bit of sufficient depth, then I place superglue in the hole, put the rivet in the hole, then use a 0.5mm piece of plasticard with a hole in it as a spacer to level the height of the ball using a ruler. If this method isn't clear just ask and I shall try to make a picture tutorial. Also, as a tip, when drilling the holes I used a template, with pre-measured holes drilled in, this way I wasn't measuring on awkward pieces, or just guessing.






I feel comfortable enough to say that I have completed the toe mid piece too. Although there are slight details on it I would wish to change, the effort to re-do the piece wouldn't be worth it. Instead I'll accept it was an early piece and that I made some possibly avoidable mistake, but shall just have to learn for in the future. The curved section on the top with the slats is a style I intend to reproduce on the the joint for the ankle. I like the way it looks and think it should scale up well enough. The only problem with that style of curve is making the slats appear individual enough. To achieve that I had to cut individual slats and then sand the edges so that they more resembled a trapezium. The slanted sides meant that the gap was much more visible. I did these ones by hand, but I shall try to assemble some form of jig for sanding the larger slats down when I reach the ankle joint.





I also completed the ankle cap detail. In addition to the rivets I added a raised trim around the edge of the cog and inner circle. It was just a bit more detail that I felt helped to make it seem more 3 dimensional. It was difficult to achieve however and took a long time with gluing parts and holding them in place to dry, as I had no suitable sized clamps. The effect was worth it however...






...Not that it matters. This is just a picture of some plasticard stuck to my table. If you haven't guessed it yet I managed to knock over the small bottle of plastic weld that I use. It flooded over my plasticard covered desk and stuck loads of loose plasticard onto the table, even my speakers were melted into place. In terms of damage to my model it could have been much worse. Just managing to splash over the octagonal foot base. As the ankle cap detail was on top of it though, it glued them together and effectively melted all of the detail on the ankle cap piece. The foot base fared better, with just slight cosmetic detail and no lasting structural damage. I may choose to only replate the part which shouldn't take long and will fix it easily. The rest of the parts were saved as I was storing the pieces with the filler on in a plastic bag, and the two finished parts on my shelf just above the desk. As a side note I use the plastic bag as for a while after setting the filler gives of an unpleasant smell, so I bag them up when not in use. The bag itself was splashed but saved the contents.


I will hopefully manage another update tomorrow, but after that I'll disappear for 5 days on a short holiday. Soon as I get back though I'll be working away, and no doubt I won't be able to stop thinking about the model whilst on holiday

[AlexCrute]

Gaaah means double post

Those bits look promising. You would think that since I now have your log to follow as well as Blackadder's, I would be satisfied by an ostensible and approximate halving of the time between Warlord-related updates, making that time more bearable. This is not the case, and it vexes me so. I am now twice as excited to access teh interwebs and my mouse is getting tired of my clicking it.

Do continue, won't you?

[fiore hellheart]

Haha, Indeed, I'm following his eagerly as well, fantastic work but I always want more

So yea, continuing...

Thanks grizz, should be less complicated later on if anything, excluding the curved armour plates that is, but I hope it's interesting enough to read.


Well, I'm back from holiday, aside from trying to find a job and then doing that job, I'm intending to spend most of my time on this for the next few months. Whilst away I had a good chance to think about the construction of parts, and I think I'm going to buy some acrylic pipe. I've figured out that by combining different wall thicknesses and overall diameters I can minimise the cost of the piping by using parts for more than one place. For example I intend to use a 34mm OD piece on the male ankle join section, paired with a 40mm OD piece and a 3mm wall thickness for the female part. This gives an 34mm ID which means the two will 'telescope' to use evergreens terms. The The 40mm OD piece will also be used for the axle part of the hip. On the hip it will slot within a 50mm Od piece with a 5mm wall giving a 40m ID, again telescoping. This 50mm OD piece will also fit in a 60mm OD 5mm wall 50mm ID piece to give the biggest diameter section at the top of thigh. As the knee will also use the 50mm OD for the male part, the female part will be the 60mm OD part. Also the inside of the calf will use the 50mm OD piece. In this way I only need 4 pipes, instead of the probably 7 or 8 diameters I was going to be making using the filler. This does mean that the diameters are slightly different to those on my original plans, but I'm sure that nobody else but me will have noticed, and that plasticard detail would have altered this anyway. It's going to be interesting figuring out how to effectively cut the tube accurately, but I'll get around to that once I've received the order.


I have also ordered a chopper like tool, I went for this, http://www.proopsbrothers.com/acatal...tting_12.html,, instead of the micromark chop it or the NWSL choppers. I'll put a full review when it arrives.


In other news I've been able to turn more parts of my 3d model into templates, so I'll print those and begin on stuff like the thigh and hip whilst I wait on the pipes. I'll also attempt to finish the toe and toe armour pieces as soon as possible along with repairing the foot base to completion and the heel plate. Lots to do for now but I will update as soon as I'm able to. Lastly, Anybody have any thoughts on names? If people can give me suggestions I'd take the ones I most enjoy and do a small poll.

[fiore hellheart]

Update as I promised then







I continued with my work on the heel plate, with the intention to reach a point at which I could begin to apply filler to give the main shape of the piece. When I returned to it I realised that my previous method of cutting rectangles and forming a wall was very time wasting. I get the exact same result by just bending a single piece in a curve.. Felt smart realising that half way through the part. Well, I continued in that manner and had completed the internal structure as shown in the pictures.






I then placed an edging onto this, going all the way around the part. This was done wider than the internal structure so that when I smooth the filler out it sands evenly. Where the plasticard peeks through the filler it can sand slightly uneven because the filler and styrene are different materials. It will sand like this at the edges but it won't be as noticeable here, and I intend to be adding an edging onto the piece anyhow which will go over any unevenness at the side. This part is now done until I begin to apply filler, I may need to buy some more however as it is a large part.






I also got around to rebuilding the part that was melted when I spilled the glue. This time hoever the cog is slightly smaller and I fancied adding a thicker edging around the edge and keeping the same edging on the inside of the cog, except only on the cog part, not on the central circle. Unless there's significant protest /i felt this looked better and intend to stay with it instead. The parts aren't currently glued together, but I will do so when I add the rivets to the piece.






This is the filler I use, having just picked it up at halfords one day. I may try other brands in the future, but this stuff seems good for now. Today I did however realise that I hadn't been using enough of the catalyst. The material on the parts such as the toe end that I had already done was not completely mixed and as a result it softened part of the plastic along the edge of the toe end. I plan to use the filler to repair this but it is a little annoying. I hope that it's because I haven't mixed it well enough with enough catalyst, the material under the softened plastic parts was still soft, so I think I'm right. The second picture is just the parts right after applying the filler. I applied it to the toe armour piece, then the ankle cap then the toe end, and you should be able to see that as it has hardened in the 15 minutes or so of work time it's become less smooth to apply. Which is why I did it in the order I did, doing the most desired smooth piece first.

[fiore hellheart]

The two pieces are now sanded and very smooth to touch, smoother than the plastic in the case of the toe armour piece even. Aside from the gouged holes in the toe end piece, I'm slightly unhappy with the toe armour piece too. Where I used supports on the inside the outside plastic has bowed inwards, I think this is because I haven't used enough supports. You can just about see this on the photo where, at the edge of the filler and plastic, the sanding didnt give a straight edge but a bowed line, this is because the join is uneven due to that bending between supports. In order to fix it I think I should be able to apply some of the filler and then sand this down into a right angle, but I have already attempted to minimise the visibility by sanding some of the plastic down too. I think I'll spray paint the piece white too in order to better see how smooth the joins are and where I can improve the piece, likewise with the toe end.





This is the sanded down ankle cap piece with the detail placed on top. The two variations are so that I could see which way is best for the positioning of the edging I've placed on the part. I prefer the edging at the top as in the left picture, but I would like other peoples opinions too, bearing in mind the positioning from the earlier renders.


I still have a long way to go, but I intend to begin working on the main thigh part and the hip soon as I've only got to print the templates out before I can begin. Tomorrow I hope to have been able to get some work done on the base of the foot, and possibly the filler work on the heel plate. Hope that satisfies everybody's interests for now

[fiore hellheart]

Yet more updates,





To continue on the foot base I begun by building the spacing and then placing the top part of the foot base. I had intended to use plasticard to do the angled edges, but I considered that this would end up weaker than the alternative use of filler, so I used that instead and plan to sand down until I have crisp edges. In terms of detail I plan to add riveted plates, but little else as other things will need flat spaces to attach to the foot base.






I also used the filler to attempt to repair the edges on the toe armour piece, and to fill the holes in the toe end piece and level the base of the piece too. Once these two have been sanded down I think I'll complete them in just a few days as the detail is minimal.






I thought I'd run down the rivet process for anybody who's interested in it. First I drill the holes in the part, I go all the way through as otherwise they won't all fit to the same height. Once drilled I force the balls into the holes, but without glue yet. I also make sure to press each through so that the bottom of the ball is level with the bottom of the o.5mm plasticard. This ensures that half of the ball is above the surface, and half beneath, and means that all the rivets will be of equal height. Once placed I flip the part and then I apply the super glue on the bottom, this stops and from bleeding over the surface which happens if the glue is placed and then the rivet placed in the hole. Once this is done the piece is finished, and provided the spacing between rivets is even, they will look good. Even heights go a long way to adding a manufactured feel.


Also, I went to collect the chopper from the post office today, and I'll try to upload a review and some pictures soon. It seems suitable so far.

[fiore hellheart]

More updates





I glued the ankle cap detail on, so the piece is completed for now. I next need to begin building the connector that holds this onto the foot base part.





I used the filler to fix the edge on the toe armour piece, so it's now straight enough. I'm pretty happy with it and I will start to put another part onto it, which is a box at the back, after which I will rivet and add plating.





I also sanded down the first coat of filler on the foot base, the edges are all crisp and I'm pleased with them and don't think I'll need much more than just one more coat of filler then a bit of detail, as I've said before however this is going to relatively sparse in detail.





I also started on the armour plating, however I'm not too happy with the design I've done and think that I will remove it and go with the detail I had in the 3d model. I didn't expect a departure from that to look any worse, but I'm not as pleased with it.


Not loads of updates, but something. I'm waiting to get a job before I begin the main parts of legs as I need to order acrylic pipe, and just don't have the money for it now. But I will try to do any detail that will go onto the parts, and much like when I waited for glue, will do as much as possible. Also, is anybody able to confirm what I believe and tell me that the solvent weld, dichloromethane, will bond acrylic to styrene? I did a small test which seemed to work but if somebody can confirm more thoroughly I'd be happier for it.

[Commitz]

Dichlo is pretty potent stuff, it's what's used to weld acrylic seamlessly in industry. It'll work on ABS too (and styrene of course).

I would generally advise against using it from an open bottle though, as it vaporises very quickly. Also that spillage hazard as you experienced :P

You can get little pump dispensers. I think they're used for nail varnish remover mostly, but they're good for dichlo too and will let you dispense small volumes at a time. Not sure where exactly to get them but I'm gonna try ebay soon so I'll post again if it's any good.

[fiore hellheart]

Awesome, that's nicely reassuring to get a confirmation on what I thought. I must admit I get through a lot of this stuff, even when I don't pour it over the desk, and I have indeed seen those pumps online before. Nifty things, really made me want one when I saw a youtube video, for anybody who's unclear on this, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myh8-zpJt9Q

I was going to say that they've been too expensive, but having done a quick search with what I think are different search terms to last time, I've found something I'm going to buy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200ml-Clea...item5ae6f748eb It's odd really, the other place I'd seen them for sale was my plasticard suppliers site, where they were £22, excluding postage. Might be awful quality, but i'll try it much like I did with the chopper. Thanks for prompting me to find that.

So, more updates today, more pieces essentially finished.







I decided I really didn't like the plating look, so it was scrapped. Just thought I'd show what a mess I made of it. I'd used the plastic solvent so it was welded together, in future I plan to do the edgings all with superglue. It's much easier to separate the join of superglue and the residue can be sanded down more easily. The new plating is more angular than the other stuff, but it's closer to the render and I'm much happier with it. I'm also not too fussed about the angular edges as the Reaver toes are very angular in their edging, whilst the rest isn't. So I don't feel like I'm making too large a departure in style here. I also glued the housing for the connecting pipe between the toe armour plate and toe end piece. I'm not entirely sure how I'll do the connecting piece itself, but I at least doubt I'll put another housing on the underside of the toe armour piece, it would take up too much room and won't be seen due to the angle anyway.





This is the connector between the base of the foot and the ankle cap piece. I'm undecided on how much detail and riveting to put on this part, but I may have to do it heavily riveted to match the rest of the pieces, in the picture later on in this post it looks a little sparse. I've left the end unplated as I plan to use filler in order to match the height of the part to the position on the foot base as best as I can. It also isn't noticeable in the picture but I need to use some filler to repair some melting from overzealous glue usage, and uneven sanding. It's not the bst part I've made but I'll try to improve it.






For the plating on the toe armour piece I decided to start to introduce the curves into the edgings. I'm quite happy with the effect and depending on how I feel whilst edging other parts, my titan may end up more angular in terms of the edgings than the forge world ones. I still need to decide how and where to place rivets onto the edgings before these are finished though. Ideals I need a set of 2mm spheres that don't cost a lot of money, so far the only thing I've seen is ball bearings which are more expensive than I can use. I could use the leather punch pressed rivets, that are flatter and more disk like for the 2mm upwards rivets I want. I'll try some things out and come back with the results another time, but if anybody happens to know where I could get some 2mm spheres that aren't very expensive, I need a few hundred I think, I'd be grateful.





Lastly just a blu-tacked shot of the parts so far. I'm pretty chuffed at how stuff's going so far, although it is slower than I'd need to meet the deadline of October, it's faster than I'd actually expected to achieve. There is a larger image that's 1024x768 in resolution in my photobucket gallery here:
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/a...2010/10_08.jpg
If you want to check it out in more detail that the small images I use for the forum posts.


If anybody has any questions, just ask, thanks again.

[Yodhrin]

Holy balls It's only when you've put the components together that the scale becomes apparent. How modular will the model be once complete? I imagine it will be a bit of a pig to transport with all that filler adding to the weight.

[Guilliman]

Really cool to se the pieces together! Can't wait til you get more parts finished. How about a scale shot next to a miniature?

[Radium]

You have entered the hallowed ranks of the Plasticard Elite!

This is so insanely awesome, I can't even begin to describe it. Do keep working on this, kind sir!

[fiore hellheart]

Thanks Yodhrin, I plan to get some custom foam packaging, but I need to find a box that will fit the width of it. Something I'll look into once it's complete really. Modular wise I intend to have the entirety of the legs glued to a dynamic pose. However If i'm clever I might be able to make it so that the legs are independent of each other and just slide onto a single axle through the hip. I would need to add some locks to prevent rotation along the bar, I wouldnt trust friction, but If I managed that I could just have two legs to transport rather than the much bigger leg and base assembly.

Guilliman, It was only when I uploaded the photo that I noticed that I'd forgotten to put a scale miniature next to it, which was a silly mistake. I'll try to put a scale picture on the next update that I've got all the pieces together. They move between my room and a small workshop in the garden as that's where I do the filler work due to the smell. But I'll give it a shot later, and I'll tell you already it's not small

Haha, thanks Radium. I'd like to think that, but I know that there are still many many more skilled plasticard workmen out there. That said I never expected that I could do as well as I feel I am. It's all just a matter of jumping in and trying it out for yourself. I used to be awful at plasticard work, just check out some of the photo's of my warhound titan pair in my old project logs. Not great, but I stuck with it and after plenty of practice I'm improving to a level I'm happy with. That said I wouldn't think that I've headed into the elite yet, maybe by the end of the build, but not just yet and thanks for the encouragement too

No update right now, but I've thought about what I'm doing and I think that I'll start on parts for the thigh and both the knee and ankle joints. I'm waiting to do the calf as the design gives a part of a cylinder with a cutaway to an octagonal structure inside that the toe armour connectors are attached to. To do this successfully I think I need to have the cylinder it rests within, but ca't get that until I've ordered the tube after getting a job. Woes of the unemployed hobbyist eh? :P So yea, that's the plan for now, from there I'll want to start the body I imagine

[Erazmus_M_Wattle]

This modelling log is fantastic. You've got your scale absolutely perfect in my eyes as 26" was what I had planned to make one at. Although I'm doubtful I'll actually ever start that project.

Keep it up. It's so easy to lose momentum in a project like this. I want to see this finished.

[fiore hellheart]

Thanks Erazmus, It's certainly difficult to get the ball rolling. I just got lucky with the opportunity by having the next couple of months free so though I'd try. I'm trying to keep momentum up and think I'm slowing slightly, but I reckon that's because I'm getting bored of the same part of titan for the last few weeks. I might make it more interesting in a bit by trying other parts and just starting them, if not immediately finishing them until a while later.

It's been a while coming, but I've got some more updates, again, not much but I have an excuse. A couple of days ago I felt that the foot base wasnt good enough, when I first sanded I did it on a tray that had a lip on the underside I hadn't noticed, meaning the surface of the tray was slightly raised above the surface of the table. When I sanded it meant that it bowed downwards slightly, so all of the edges on some of my early sandings are slightly curved. I've sorted this now and put a piece of wood under the tray to raise it so that it doesnt sand wrongly, but I'd already done the foot base. Because of this I decided to rebuild the foot base all over, so spent a long day recreating it so that all of the edges were perfectly flat and perpendicular. After I'd done this though I spent a short amount of time sanding the original one, which I'd already put filler on, and after a short amount of sanding the edges are close enough that it's not noticeable anymore. So in effect I wasted a good deal of time duplicating a part for no reason. Which is why the updates taken so long. I intend to learn from this lesson though...





After that I decided to get started on some other parts. These are the two pieces that will cap the end of the ankle joint tube. I've cut the circles to slightly less than the 34mm outside diameter of the pipe. This is so that when I get the pipe I'm sure that it will fit within the tolerances of the pieces and happily fit onto the end without much fuss. If there is a slight increase in size It's just appear to be more edging and not matter. Building this I'll say that the chopper was really useful, I used it to ensure that both of the trapezium type parts were correct using the adjustable angle guides and it was a lot quicker when cutting right angles for the 0.5mm width edging.





I haven't got and earlier picture, but this is the second coat of filler on the heel piece. I'm pretty much out of filler now so probably need to get some more, but as soon as I have done I'll be able to get close to finishing this. The inside isn't as close and has only had one coat of filler, but I have figured out how to easily sand it now. Using a large diameter piece of tubing that my plasticard was shipped in, I just wrap it with sandpaper and sand using that. Because the curve is smaller than the curve on the part it isn't perfect, but it's better than any other method of sanding I have and has worked well so far.





I also put a second coat of filler onto the foot base part. You should be able to see that now the edges are all fairly crisp, I've also been careful to get a very similar angle on at least two of the faces opposite one another, as they will take the ankle cap support piece. The sort of P shaped one. On the left of the closest edge in the picture you might notice that theres a slight imperfection at the corner. This is because I've almost sanded all the way through the plasticard whilst trying to fix the curve and the slight slant. As luckily it's the same only on the opposite face, I'll add some extra plating to this which will act as a placement guide for the ankle cap supporting piece. this should solve the problem and make it clear as to the orientation of the part, given that some of the faces are slightly dodgey fits It'll avoid misplacement by accident.





I decided it might help to give a diagram of the progress, and I'll try to update this picture every few updates. That way people can tell where I am in the build without figuring out all the different pieces I've built so far. Things coloured green are finished, things orange are a work in progress, and I haven't started the white stuff. So I've got a lot to go.