transfer help!!

[Lavadude360]

Space marine shoulder guards are IMPOSSIBLE to get transfers to sit neatly on!!!

If anyone can help me get them to sit right I'll give them not 1 not 2 but 12000 cookies!

Please help me!

[schoolcormorant]

micro-sol and micro-set.

if you can't get that, you can cut nicks around the transfer, very thin ones when you position them, this sort of compensates for the uneven surface and should help.

SC

[time wizard]

First you have to trim the transfer. Cut away any part that does not have the image on it. If you look at the transfer you will see an area of clear film around the image.

After you get the transfer on the model, blot off any water. Then apply a drop or so of a decal softening solution (I use a product call solvaset, I'm in the USA, don't know if it is available everywhere). Then let the model sit until the solvaset dries. This should soften the decal and allow it to form on the pad.

[Bregalad]

You usually get micro-sol or micro-set in model railroad stores or mail order shops (like Walther's).

[Lavadude360]

thanks guys that is really helpful coz there isn't a tut in the 'how to' section.

[GTARob]

Forgive me for necro'ing.

I'm pretty new to converting and painting in general, but I was frustrated with the decals as well. I cut slits in my Templar decals to help them lay flat, and then held the model about 4-5 inches over a candle. It caused the decal to go all shrinky dink and conform to the pad in the areas that, previously, would not lay flat. Has anyone else tried this?

[xrey]

is there any other way apart from "decal-softener".........................

[USABOB]

Has anyone else tried this?

I guess yes : )

I have a rather unorthodox way of applying transfers. I put the transfer in the correct place (after the water phase) and give it a burn with a cigarette lighter (light it and immediately let it shut off letting the flame touch it no more than quarter second, may need to be done more than once to get the edges you missed). I suggest you experiment on an unfinished project first, if done right the transfer appears painted on and the gloss is significantly reduced. That method works for me and didn't require me to buy decal softner, which made it more appealing and doesn't burn it up like a constant flame .

[xrey]

it works! my thanks to you sir

[Kotobuki]

You can use plain white vinegar in the place of the expensive decal softeners.

[Wintermute]

is there any other way apart from "decal-softener".........................

No there isn't.


BTW in addition to decal solvents, you need to put a coat of gloss or satin varnish on the area where the decal is to be placed, and then another coat after the decal (using solvent) has been placed. You can then add a coat of matt varnish if you want a non-shiny finish

[Vermin-thing]

I tried to apply some via the instructions on the back of the sheet, but alas they all fell of.

Anyways I found a article on applying transfers on the GW site.
Linky >>> http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/co...03&aId=2600032

[Corvus]

There are two alternatives:

1) use a hairdryer: be careful not to melt plastic models! Just give it a few seconds.
2) use vinegar (haven't tried this): it's the main ingredient of commercial decal softeners

But if you have access to Micro-Sol or something similar I'd advice to get a bottle of this: it's cheap and will last for hundreds of decals.