Toschenko's big & yellow log - Battleworn Imperial Fists

[Aulbath]

Let someone rename it (or move it somewhere else) and make a index in the first post leading to the good stuff

[Lord Azoth]

awesome tutorial... one question how long (aproximately) did take you to paint a SM to this lvl?...

[Toschenko]

Let someone rename it (or move it somewhere else) and make a index in the first post leading to the good stuff

I've thought this, but I didn't want to do the tedious job... oh, you're taking sense I guess, in a day or two I'll get my lazy **** off the chair and organize the first post in an index

awesome tutorial... one question how long (aproximately) did take you to paint a SM to this lvl?...

Usually I tend to don't take care of the clock while I'm painting (just to try to don't depress myself for being so slow) but it took three painting session to get that marine done, and I worked about two hours and half per session (a mean value, the first took a lot less time than the second). You have to take into account that in the first session I preshaded and basecoated all the five sternguards, while in the remaining two I painted the marine I showed and at the same time that with the beaky helmet that appears in the early stages pics... in reality that model is missing only the fifth step (that is to say the detailing work after the weathering stage) and now he's sitting on my desk awaiting completion. So I can't really answer your question, because in these 7/8 hours I didn't work on a single model - but you can have at least a rough idea of the time spent.

Pics or it didn't happen :





Toschenko

[Lord Azoth]

Thanks mate!..In a non distant future IŽll start to paint my SW army..and although the colours will be totally different, the technique could be the same (maybe as not as spectacular as you, of course!).... keep on Toschenko!

[garinator]

Hey Toschenko

Really love that you are demonstrating how to use weathering techniques on infantry models, usually you only see them on tanks. I'm now going to try to do the same thing!

I have a question about your pigment use (which looks amazing). Do you mix some water with the pigments before you apply it and then airbrush over? Or do you just apply the pigments dry and then airbrush? I'm just having real difficulty getting dry pigments to stay put!

Oh and actually, one more question: About the MIG wash you use. Is that any different to Citadel washes?

[Toschenko]

Thanks mate!..In a non distant future IŽll start to paint my SW army..and although the colours will be totally different, the technique could be the same (maybe as not as spectacular as you, of course!).... keep on Toschenko!

Thanks for the encouragement! Care to post a linky to your plog when you'll start it

Hey Toschenko

Really love that you are demonstrating how to use weathering techniques on infantry models, usually you only see them on tanks. I'm now going to try to do the same thing!

I have a question about your pigment use (which looks amazing). Do you mix some water with the pigments before you apply it and then airbrush over? Or do you just apply the pigments dry and then airbrush? I'm just having real difficulty getting dry pigments to stay put!

Oh and actually, one more question: About the MIG wash you use. Is that any different to Citadel washes?

No, I use them straight from the pot, without water or any other thinner: I apply a little quantity of pigment where I want the shade to be stronger and then blend it with a old small drybrush GW brush. I have to specify that I don't use the airbrush after pigment application - I seal pigments with Tamiya or Humbrol spray matt varnish (the ones that come in cans). If you blend them carefully they'll stay in place (very often I have troubles to remove them by using simply a brush even prior to sealing, most of the time I have to use my finger).

To answer you second question: MIG washes are enamel-based so they flow very easily in the crevices compared to the water-based GW ones. They take a lot longer to dry so you may always try to correct some mistake, or blend them with a lot less effort using an enamel thinner (like the MIG one). I use them because armour detailing can be made with relative easiness: just load the brush with a little wash, apply it touching softly the spot you want to emphatize and watch the wash flow naturally in the recesses without spreading all over. The result is dependent on the quality of the detail though, as in a rough sculpt (or damaged mini) the wash will not canalize properly into the details. It also helps to have a smooth application surface, the wash tend to spread more over a rough surface (like a very matt one) than a smoother surface, like a gloss varnished one.

Toschenko

[claudiomarino]

Fantastic tutorial. Thanks a bunch for sharing.