View Full Version : Shabbadoo's WH40K Log (Dark Angels, Orks, Word Bearers, etc.)

09-11-2007, 10:43
So, with only a few models actually finished being painted, I've decided to begin a project log for my Orks, as the upcoming stuff has finally succeeded in lighting a fire under my butt to actually do something. I suffer from APADD(Acute Painter’s Attention Deficit Disorder), so it is a big step for me to actually concentrate on a single thing for any length of time. I know I am not alone in this. :D

EDIT: Oh hell. At least I got a bunch of assembling done on one army, but it's all gone to crap now. And yes, I am laughing right along with you. This is now a log of EVEYTHING WH40K I am working on which will primarily be Dark Angels, Orks, Word Bearers, Imperial Guard, and Tau. A few others models may sneak their way in here and there. I'll be posting some oldies but goodies that I still have as well.

For my first post, here are pics of what I have painted. These are my prototype models for figuring out how I want to paint all of the Orks I have. The trukk is just something I built for Gorka Morka, but I may work it into the list somehow. These models are painted simply enough that I think I will be able to stick with them long enough to get a full army done. I do paint better than this, but I'm willing to cut a few corners to actually have a full army painted to a decent standard for the first time. I'll likely spend more time on models I really like or that are HQ choices. We'll have to wait and see.

The prototype Ork models and the Trukk:

09-11-2007, 11:04
Surely nice minis. :)

09-11-2007, 14:15
Very nice. I am very much interested on what you will do to the new trukk. Keep it up!

09-11-2007, 15:08
I like the truck, the raised platform desperately needs to have a 'uge boss bellowing orders at underlings and the driver. Think back seat driver, multiplied.

I also love the work you've done on the skin, really nice highlighting.

Good luck keeping your interest!

10-11-2007, 13:37
I've combined my previous two units of Trukk Boyz into one mob now by dropping one of the Nobz and both of the Burna Boyz I had in each mob, so now I am down to 17 models in this particular unit of Slugga Boyz. I'll add in two Big Shoota Boyz and one additional Boy to round them out at 20 models. I have painted the skin on about half of them so far.

For a while I considered repainting all of my Ork skin in more muted green tones, but as I already had this much done, and I am OK with it, why repaint what is already done and doesn't look half bad in the first place?

The skin is painted as follows:

Black Base Coat
Heavy Goblin Green dry brush
Dark Angels Green wash(60/40 water/paint mix roughly)
Camo Green dry brush

The Dark Angels Green wash serves to tint both the Goblin Green and the Black Base Coat in the recesses of the musculature, which ties everything together nicely enough.

Only simple techniques are used, but that is what I wanted- something that looks decent but that is simple to do. Anybody can do this. Really simple would be Dark Angels Green with a Goblin Green or Camo Green drybrush, but I wanted a bit more depth without having to do some really intense hand painted skin tones. I'll save that for special models later on. I also tend to use a black base coat on "bad guys" or on models that I plan to paint in a dark color scheme, irregardless of what army they are for. As for Orks, they will be painted mostly in darker colors or metallics, so for me black is the basecoat of choice(usually). For painting lighter colors over black I usually undercoat with the shading color, then paint over that with the base color, following that up with a wash of the shading color and a final highlight with a slightly lightened base color. I'll not use more than 4 painting stages on any of the colors on the basic models in this army, and I'll usually use only 2 or 3.

Here are some more pics(more to come):

11-11-2007, 12:12
Here is a pic of a Looted Basilisk I have been working on off and on. I got back into working on it now that I know it has some usefulness to it under the new codex as a Looted Wagon with a Boomgun. I have washed the plasticard bits with black paint so the detail that I’ve added so far stands out a bit better in the pics. Much more needs to be added to it other than the Ork crew. I call it “The Mouth of Gork”. When Gork speaks, the enemy is in for some poundin’! :evilgrin:

In pic #1 the gun lowered, or in "assault mode" as I call it. In the other pics the gun is raised and is "ready to speak". :skull:

11-11-2007, 12:34
love it. Lets hope Gork isn't talkative, else you might run outta ammo fast :D

12-11-2007, 03:24
Orks NEVER run out of ammo. They rip out life support sytems and interior workin's just to make room for MORE ammo, not to mention very unsafely strapping even MORE ammo to the outside of the vehicle! :D

12-11-2007, 15:46
what stages did you use for the yellow on the shoulder pads please?

12-11-2007, 16:30
Those are some proppa orks you have there shabbadoo! You can consider the trukk model looted!

The Laughing God
12-11-2007, 17:05
The basilisk is awesome, the skull armour plating is very creative.

13-11-2007, 05:40
Yellow is one of the last colors I paint on the models. After everything else is done, I paint the areas that will be yellow with a basecoat of Bubonic Brown(which is ochre yellow basically). Bubonic Brown has good coverage over most colors, even Black, and as a basecoat it helps to keep the color a bit more dull/toned down. After that it gets a coat of Golden Yellow. That is it.

14-11-2007, 07:00
some good looking orks you have there, keep up the good work.


Mr Feral
14-11-2007, 09:01
Nice work there, the vehicles are awesome.
That Basilisk conversion is mad (in a good way).
Keep it up!

14-11-2007, 09:08
I will be keeping an eye on this thread shabbadoo, I like what I see so far

18-11-2007, 07:25
Here is an update on the Mouf uv Gork.

I just couldn't leave the front heavy shoota alone, so I replaced it with a scratch-built sponson instead. I built the sponson because I also had another evil plan in mind, which also involved some other modifications. Another reason is that I wanted to alter the look of the Chimera hull a bit more. I may alter it further as I go along.

Originally, the lower teeth on the “Mouf uv Gork” were glued directly to the Chimera hull, so I bashed ‘em free and re-attached them to a new plate which I mounted on the front of the Boomgun platform. Now, the whole Boomgun platform slides out, and it can be replaced with a *transport platform*. :evilgrin: So, as a Looted Wagon can have a Boomgun *or* skorcha, I made the sponson so that it can hold a big shoota to go with the Boomgun, or a skorcha for when I want to use the transport platform configuration. I’ll mount a couple of big shootas on the transport platform too, which is sized to hold 12 models(one of them being a Nob). These two big shootas will follow the same pattern as the one mounted on the sponson, which I refer to as the "twig n' berries pattern big shoota".:p

18-11-2007, 07:45
...and a pic from the side, which shows things a bit better. The gun barrel has a little bit more added to it, but its about finished. I'm not sure if I'll do anything else to it or not.

EDIT: I almost forgot to show you the kustom Boomgun shell I made! The shell will get molded and cast in resin, as I will need cratefuls of these things...literally! :evilgrin:

24-11-2007, 11:02
Luv the Looted Wagon, if gives me loads of ideas.

08-12-2007, 20:31
A series of updates here. I have finished building the Boomgun version of the Looted Wagon(and it's crew) and shot it with gray primer. Attached here are views from different angles.

08-12-2007, 21:07
Here we have a shot of my Boomgun Shells, plus some of the krew. Of special note is the sophisticated targeting system used by the Spotter. :p

The last pic is of the Boombgun assembly removed. You can see an already fired Boomgun Shell lying of the platform near the Grot covering it's ears. I have removed the Boomgun Assembly in preparation for....the transformation! :eek:

floyd pinkerton
08-12-2007, 21:10
wow, i love the basilisk

shame it's all change in the new codex:(

08-12-2007, 21:59
In the new Ork Codex, it mentions in the unit description(not the army entry) for Looted Wagons that they are most often built on Chimera or Rhino chassis. Other than that I imagine they are just thrown together with whatever mekanikul bitz the Meks have lying about, which would be sort of like one of us building a vehicle out of chopped up bitz from a Porsche, a Land Rover, a VW Bug, and a minivan(except that the Ork vehicle would actually work...somehow). :D

Anyways, the Chimera chassis offers one thing that a Rhino doesn't- ease of swapping out Looted Wagon options with very little work required. As was shown in previous posts, the whole Boomgun vehicle option is fully contained on the Basilisk gun platform. I also made a transport platform which can also be slid into place, but I hadn't yet figured out completely how to be able to swap out the other weapon options. Enter the magnet system. It’s nothing new, and anybody who has built a model with magnetized weapon options knows just how simple it is.

The first pic shows how I chose to set up the area which would take the big shoota mounts. These areas are simply covered by flat, magnetized plates on the Boomgun version of the Looted Wagon, and those plates are shown in this first pic. You can just make them out in the previous pics of the finished Boomgun Looted Wagon.

The second pic shows the bottom of the big shoota mounts. The next few pics are shots of the Transport version of the Looted Wagon from different angles. The skorcha bit is held in place by two pins of brass rod which slide into holes in the sponson to secure it in place. This is also how the big shoota on the Boomgun version is attached to the sponson. The last pic shows the Transport version of the Looted Wagon with a full payload of Boyz which includes a Nob, an Ork w/ big shoota, and 10 other Orks w/ sluggas & choppas. The transport platform still needs a slight bit of work, but it is almost done. The next pics of it will be in primer grey, so all of the details should stand out a bit better in the pics than the white plasticard does.

08-12-2007, 22:03
I love the looted wagon. The grot spotter is hilarious!

08-12-2007, 22:34
wow thats amazing work there. Are these orks part of a Klan?

09-12-2007, 05:13
I'm pretty set on painting them as my favorite clan, that being Bad Moons(Nazdreg LIVES!!!), so they will mainly be black and yellow with a bit of red as an accent color. There will be the obligatory black flames on yellow background on some of my models, and the odd checkerboard pattern here and there too. I'm not sure if I will paint this Looted Wagon fully in Orky colors, or leave remnants of the original Imperial colors on it. Suggestions are welcome.

I'm also working on a Deff Dread. I've only made a few "adjustments" to it which involved getting the upper and lower halves to fit together a bit better, and also making more stable(and interchangeable) weapon mounts for it. How the weapons mount onto the body is the only poorly engineered feature on the model. Those intermediary pieces are just too flimsy and are best chucked into the bitz box to be used for some other oddity.

Getifa Ubazza
09-12-2007, 07:48
I really like your paint scheme. Its Bad Moon, but its also easy on the eye. A strange thing to say, but its real looking. Which is a good thing.

09-12-2007, 09:49
I know what you mean. I'm not very fond of bright yellow Bad Moon paint schemes. They just tend to look too toy-like, and toy-like is definitely NOT what I am going for.

Yellow and black are just clan colors, but these are Orks. Their colors are not going to be vibrant and clean like those of, say, Harlequins. My Orks will have any bright colors painted in a muted fashion, plus they will have lots of dirt, rust, oil, and other filth on them. Some armies look very good painted crisp and clean, but in my opinion Orks don't look quite right when painted this way. Bad Moon Yellow is a near fluorescent yellow color, and it is probably the only color in the whole GW paint range that I can say I truly hate. I bought a bottle of it once, and threw it out shortly thereafter. Regardless of the name on the bottle, I recommend using Golden Yellow instead.

Oddly enough I am known for having a very clean painting style, and it really shines on things like Eldar, Tau, High Elves, and other "good guy" armies. I enjoy painting "bad guy" miniatures like Orks and Chaos though because I feel more free to paint in a totally different style that is darker and dirtier. Attached is a contrasting example of something I have painted in a "clean" style, in this case some Tau Fire Warriors.

09-12-2007, 15:28
as much as i love the way you've done your orks, those tau are simply beautiful, so clean and neat, just as the fishy people should look

10-12-2007, 01:51
I certainly like the color scheme I chose and the way they turned out. Don’t expect a Tau thread anytime soon though. Everything on these models is easy to paint, except for the carapace armor and other things that are Ghostly Grey, a color which GW discontinued while keeping the horrifically crappy Bad Moon Yellow! Fortunately, Vallejo offers a substitute for Ghostly Grey in their Game Color range called Ghost Grey. Those areas are painstakingly painted to look pristine and neat, and that takes quite a bit of time and patience to achieve. The black is simply highlighted with dark gray, and the blue is Regal Blue dry-brushed with Enchanted Blue. The carapace and similarly colored areas is Ghost Grey with Codex Grey in the cracks, and is highlighted with Skull White. The fish'ead skin is Shadow Grey, with Shadow Grey mixed with Elf Flesh for the highlights. Most colors on these models are just a base color and a single highlight color, but I'm very happy with the end result.

11-12-2007, 23:49
I'll be building more Boyz when the new models come out, as I will want to mix some of the new bitz into my squad, so I'm on to my Deff Dread now. Paint will come a bit later on the Looted Wagon.

The Deff Dread didn't quite fit together all that well, plus I wanted to build it such that the weapons were interchangeable and that it could be broken down for ease of storage/transport. To this end I created my own method of mounting the weapons which involved adding some plastic to them, as well as the body of the Deff Dread. The hollow inside of the Deff Dread body is actually partially filled with solid plastic to give the mounting pins something to insert fully into, and therefore be sturdier.

Pic 1 shows the crappy weapon mounts the Deff Dread comes with. These really are garbage, and are the most flawed bit of engineering on the model. They are just too flimsy. Other than that the banner pole should have the mounting pin on it rather than the way it is, and it really should have more than one mounting pin to disallow any twisting motion which would loosen it(and the banner poles on the metal Nobz have the same problem). Other than that the model is great, but I think pointing out the model’s shortcomings is important as it may help others building it.

The other pics show the outward results of the modifications done to the body so that the weapons, arms, and lower body can be removable.

29-12-2007, 10:19
So, it has been a bit since I put something up, so here we go again.

First, a pic of the assembled Deff Dread. It can be fully broken down to upper and lower half, and all the weapons/arms come off. This makes it easy to store as well as to swap out the weapons. I kept this one very simple pose-wise. If I build another I'll probably make it in some crazy stompin' pose.

After that we have some Warboss pics. The one with the big choppa and shoota-skorcha will stay relatively stock, but I may add some armor plates to him. This weapon combo works well as they are both two handed weapons.

Then there is the Warboss with the bionik arm. Loved that bit in the old dex, but now it is the "cybork body" upgrade. To me "cybork body" sounds like there ought to be something more than just a bionik arm though, so the Mad Dok's tools are calling to me. I figure that Warboss would be very pleased to have a much stompier leg, and maybe some facial rekonstrukshun too. Time to gather the Grot orderlies methinks. :D

29-12-2007, 10:36
The bionik arm on the Warboss is a bit small actually(better suited to a Nob really), so I am making another one that is a bit bigger. Here of some pics of the bionik arms and one of the bigger one attached to the Warboss.

29-12-2007, 16:21
cool neat ideas! I gotta convert my basilisk to update the rules now anyways... now your just giving me an excuse to one up you :P

Kasrkin 666
29-12-2007, 20:51

Lovin the Basalisk!


Brother Siccarius
29-12-2007, 20:56
How'd you make the fist, was it carved from one piece or was it built up with plasticard?

30-12-2007, 03:20
The fist is made up of a few pieces. I'll be making some more bionik bits so I will try to remember to takes pics of the process.

Da Reddaneks
17-11-2008, 03:03
freaking awsome shabbadoo! i love the looted wagon and basilisk in particular.

17-11-2008, 04:13
Your stuff further inspires me to continue my orks. Maybe i'll post a thread up here soon. Waaagh! on brother!!!


17-11-2008, 04:45
Wow, really good stuff mate, impressed witht both the plasticard work and the painting.

Keep it up.



17-11-2008, 06:47
nice work. Love the looted vehicles. My brother and I are going to do Orks once we finish our chaos force. I notice the thread is old have you done any more work?

17-11-2008, 08:25
Wow. I was just thinking that I should update my project threads, and lo and behold they get resurrected! That’s just bloody eerie I say. I really have been meaning to put up an update. I have indeed *built* quite a bit more, but I have only begun to *paint* some of it. I have been helping a friend of mine build bits of his army too, plus I have been working on a bunch of terrain as well. Since the previous update quite a bit of Ork stuff has come out, and I have been busy building some of it as follows:

Fighta Bommer
"Big" Squiggoth
24 Shoota Boyz
24 Slugga Boyz
6 Warbikes
2 Wartrakks
10 Lootas
10 Burnas
10 Tankbustas
5 AoBR Nobs
2 Deff Koptas
2 Wartrukks
AoBR Warboss

Most of that stuff has all of its little bitz added and is ready for primer or is already primered black and ready for paint. Right now I am painting a Wartrakk , a "Big" Squiggoth, a Fighta Bommer, and I am starting to get back to painting my Looted Wagon with Boomgun. I put that last one aside(and most other things) to concentrate on building stuff. I also went out and picked up an Ork Fighta.

I've also been working on some Word Bearers Chaos Dreadnought bitz for a friend of mine, but it's only 4 weapon variant arms and then that will be done. I still need to finish painting my own Word Bearers Defiler and a Rhino though. There's always something to do when you have too many armies. Not to worry though as I am getting rid of a bunch of stuff. Tightening up my collection so to speak. I've decided that Eldar and Cadian IG are going bye bye now, so I'll soon be down to a somewhat manageable 5 armies then- Dark Angels, Orks, Word bearers, Tallarn IG, Tau. For me that would be a "manageable level", as when I decide to buy stuff for an army I go all out so I have just a bit too much of too many things. Too much to focus on. Too many distractions. For now I just plan on working on Orks and Dark Angels mostly, with a bit of Word Bearers thrown in as a diversion from getting stuck painting various shades of green. :D So, to that end I will take more pics and consolidate all of that stuff onto this project log which I will rename to reflect this.

I have done some more work on the Ork Warboss pictured previously in the thread, so I’ll start with an update on him. No WIP pics I’m afraid, but you will hopefully be able to figure out how to go about things.

EDIT: So, here's the pics of the Warboss's shoota-skorcha, power pack(not quite done yet), and boss pole:

18-11-2008, 10:04
Here is the first five men of Tactical Squad #1 for the 3rd Battle Company of my Dark Angels:

18-11-2008, 10:10
Here's part of old school Devastator Squad #9 of the 3rd Battle Company which was painted in about 92'-93' and is made up of 2nd edition minis(even one of the plastic "statue" marines from the 2nd edition starter box):

18-11-2008, 10:16
Here is a Deathwing Terminator from my 2nd edition era days and a Dark Angels Master(and which is my my first ever conversion; being made mostly from one of the plastic sergeants from the 2nd edition starter box) based on the 2nd edition "Dark Millenium" boxed set cover:

Last but not least is a Blood Angels Terminator Chaplain with a few modfications, and whose hand-painted banner I am particularly pleased with. These were all painted around 92'-93', and were painted in the "GW style" of that era.

18-11-2008, 12:13
These are heartbreakingly awesome, brings back too much nostalgia. That deathwing termie captain with that super old school base brings me right back to when I started the hobby for the first time. Incredible

Gathrog Gobsmakka
19-11-2008, 03:08
Hey Shabba! It's nice to see your blog coming along again! Does this mean the dice will be coming soon? :)

06-12-2008, 21:26
More Ork stuff! This is pretty much what I am working on at the present.

For the Deffdread I am starting out with a rusty look for it, after which I will paint some of the plates to add some color. The Squiggoth skin is pretty much done, and is painted to match the skin on my Orks. After all, dey iz not so distant couzins. ;) I'll be doing the skin on any squigs in a similar way. the Fighta-Bomma was primered in gray, and has now been lightly coated with Iyanden Darksun. The pilot is done, and the bommz are primered and ready for paint too.

I also finally pulled out my airbrush and have started to mess around with it. This is a brand spanking new airbrush, an IWATA Eclipse HP-CS(it's *******' bootiful!), and I have chosen to de-virginize it spraying yellow on to my Looted Wagon. It has been a while since I have used an airbrush, and this is a new one to boot, so it's almost like learning to do it all over again. So far I am enjoying it. When I have something other than a solid yellow tank to show you I'll post some pics of it. I also got hold of some more plasticard and have started to build up a turreted boomgun for the 'Ard Case add-on for my Looted Wagon chassis. Pics of that when it looks more recognizable as actually being something.

13-12-2008, 03:50
A nice log you have here, really like that warboss :D What size guitar string do you use? I'm looking to acquire some myself.

14-12-2008, 08:18
Awesome Basilisk! I hope you get around to finishing it. The Dark Angels are very cool too. I always had a problem with their decals. Did you paint around the edges of them or use Microsol/set?

14-12-2008, 14:59
shabbadoo: The definition of crisp.

15-12-2008, 09:49
Thanks ladz.

As far as decals go, I have used Microsol and Solvaset over the years. I don't really have a preference for one over the other at this point. Once the decals are on I actually use them only as a guide and fully painte over them. Sometimes I will instead freehand a symbol, as on the "Dark Millenium" master.

Regarding guitar string, I get them from my brother so I don't know what size they are. What I can tell you is that in a standard set of guitar strings, I use the two largest sized ones. I need to tell him to play his bass more so I can eventually get some nice ol' fat strings to use on something bigger. :D

Right now I'm very happy with the rust effect I have achieved on the body of the Deffdread. I swear that in person it looks like a big hunk of iron that somebody left out in the rain for a year. I'm very happy with it- particularly because it is so utterly easy to do. Easy is always a good thing.

16-12-2008, 02:45
Hey, Shabbadoo:

You're a man after my own taste, I too play 3rd company Dark Angels. Tell me sir, how did you get that lovely deep green armor? And for that matter, the red weapon casings?

16-12-2008, 09:17
I always liked the 3rd Batle Company as it was the closest to the 1st and 2nd Companies(not that that really means much of anything). I've played Dark Angels since 87'(Rogue Trader era). I'm pretty sure I recall the colors I used on my Dark Angels, but I'll have to look up my Dark Angel paint scheme sheet, just to make sure I mention the right paint colors.

Now for a real blast from the past. Attached is a pic of one of the first RTB01 Space Marines I ever painted. It's good to keep old minis like this around to remind you of where you came from. ;) For all you n00b Dark Angels(hehe), this mini is painted in the REAL pre-green armour color scheme. Note the stylistically different chapter logo in RED. The badge below it stands for "commander". If I ever do any Heresy Dark Angels or Fallen, they will be painted in this old school scheme. :cool:

16-12-2008, 09:35
And now, here's something for the greenskins. So far I am enjoying painting this Deffdread:

18-12-2008, 12:02
Here's my paint color instructions for the Dark Angels. These instructions are for the newer models that I posted pictures of. The older 2e models use a slightly different paint palette which I don't completely remember any longer. Since then I've been getting in the habit of writing down instructions like this so that if I leave off painting something and come back to it later(which I will invariably do), I know what colors to use when I start in on things again. I need to write up a detailed list like this for my Orks too.

Dark Angels Paint Scheme Instructions

Paint Palette:

Black Ink
Brown Ink
Red Ink
Flesh Wash Ink
Chaos Black
Dark Grey (Vallejo Model color #166/994)
Codex Grey
Ghost Grey (Vallejo Game Color #46)
Scorched Brown
Bestial Brown
Snakebite Leather
Bleached Bone
Skull White
Dark Angels Green
Snot Green
Scorpion Green
Scab Red
Blood Red
Boltgun Metal
Shining Gold
Burnished Gold
Pearl White/Metal Medium(Vallejo Model Color #191/521)

*All paints used are Games Workshop colors unless otherwise stated.


White Primer basecoat (usually), Bleached Bone base coat, wash of Snakebite Leather, highlight of thinned Bleached Bone, highlight of thinned Bleached Bone+Skull White, final highlight of thinned Skull White.

Terminator Armor

White Primer basecoat (usually), Bleached Bone, thin wash of Snakebite Leather to tint the base color, highlight of thinned Bleached Bone, highlight of thinned Bleached Bone+Skull White, final highlight of thinned Skull White.

Dark Angels Green Armor or Vehicles

Black basecoat/primer, Dark Angels Green, highlight with Snot Green, final highlight with thinned Scorpion Green on higher edges.

Ravenwing Black Armor, Black Items, or Vehicles

Black basecoat, highlight with Charcoal Black (Black+Codex Grey or Vallejo Dark Grey (Model Color #166/994), highlight with Codex Grey, final highlight with thinned Vallejo Ghost Grey (Game Color #46).

Chest Eagles/Decorations

Black Primer basecoat (usually), Bleached Bone, “black-line” recesses with Scorched Brown, thinned wash of Snakebite Leather, highlight of Beached Bone, final highlight of thinned Skull White.

Eye Lenses/Targeting Lenses

Black basecoat, Scab Red, Scab Red+Black mix on upper eye lens, Blood Red on lower eye lens, thinned White highlight at bottom of eye lens, Red Ink tint over whole of area to blend, White reflection dot in upper corner of eye lens, gloss coat lens after Dullcote-ing the miniature.

Red Weapon Casings/Robes/Symbols

Black basecoat, Scab red, highlight with Blood Red.

Silver Metallics

Black basecoat, Boltgun Metal, thinned wash of Black, highlight with Chainmail.

Gold Metallics

Black base, Shining Gold, wash with thinned Brown Ink or Flesh Wash Ink, highlight with Burnished gold, final highlight with Burnished Gold+Pearl White (craft paint or Vallejo Metalizer #000).

Brown Leather items

Black base coat, Scorched Brown, highlight with Bestial Brown, final highlight with thinned Snakebite Leather.

General Skin Tones

Black base, Snakebite Leather, Dark Flesh, Tallarn Flesh, Scorched Brown; highlight with various lightercolors, final highlight with a someaht lighter shade. (*I try to vary the combination of colors I use to create a greater variety of looks.)


Black base, Scorched Brown, drybrush with Snakebite Leather, drybrush very lightly with Bubonic Brown, Snakebite Leather on rim of base.

21-12-2008, 01:41
Scorpion green on the third highlight? Really? That's very interesting . . . when you say thinned I'm thinking you mean to the point of almost being a wash?

I'm very impressed and now I really want to try the stuff you've posted here. Thanks for the list, very cool.

21-12-2008, 03:11
You are correct about the Scorpion Green. It is a very vibrant green color, so you don't need much of it. The highlight is very faint, so to get the right look you will need to dilute the Scorpion Green with water and wipe most of it off of your brush before applying it. I use the oxymoronic title of "wet-drybrushing" to describe this method of applying paint.

21-12-2008, 12:07
Here is the developing paint scheme list for the Bad Moons. I'll add more to it as I nail down how I am going to paint certain things.

Bad Moons Paint Scheme Instructions

Color Palette:

Chaos Black
Dark Grey (Vallejo Model color #166/994)
Codex Grey
Skull White
Dark Angles green
Goblin Green
Camo Green
Scab Red
Blood Red
Iyanden Darksun/Bubonic Brown
Golden Yellow
Scorched Brown
Bestial Brown
Snakebite Leather
Bleached Bone
Tin Bitz
Boltgun Metal
Chainmail Silver
Mithril Silver
Badab Black
Devlan Mud
Terra Cotta- Ocre brun(DecoArt “Americana” paint range #DA62)
Black(PLAID “Apple Barrel” paint range #20504)

*All paints are Games Workshop colors unless otherwise noted.

Ork Skin:

Primer black, touch up with Chaos Black, drybrush w/ Goblin Green, wash w/ Dark Angels Green to tint the Goblin green and any remaining Chaos Black that is showing, drybrush with Goblin Green, light drybrush w/ Camo Green; add further highlights of Camo Green around eyes, mouth, brow line and jaw line when painting the face.

Painting Yellow:

Cover existing paint with Iyanden Darksun/Bubonic Brown, paint two light coats of Golden yellow over it, wash lightly with Snakebite leather(which will enrich the yellow tone), pick out any rivets with Devlan Mud(mixed with Badab Black if you prefer a more prominent rivet), highlight rivets and the edges of the yellow area with Golden Yellow as well as the main area as you wish, highlight top portion of rivets and any hard edges in the yellow area with a 50/50 mix of Golden Yellow & Skull White, final highlight with thinned Skull White on the top portion of rivets and along the upper hard edges of any yellow areas, paint streaks of Snakebite Leather, Devlan Mud, Badab Black, etc. to simulate grime running down from any rivets or other places on the yellow area.

Red Areas:

Chaos Black base coat, paint with Scab Red, pick out any rivets with Badab Black, highlight with Blood Red, final highlight on upward-facing hard edges with thinned Skull white. Add grime as with painting yellow areas.

24-12-2008, 14:12
I just picked up a Piranha TX-42 full kit and a Tau Barracuda(X-Mas gifts to myself:D), and a couple months ago I also picked up a Hellblade Chaos Fighter(a nice, sleek, very cool little model), so that is lurking about too. I have no idea when I'll get to doing them, as I have plenty to work on already. It look like I have dialed things down to mostly working on Orks, Dark Angels, Tau, and Word Bearers now. Thoughts of cutting loose my Tallarns(about 140 minis plus at least 6 tanks and 6 Sentinels) and Cadians are floating through my mind. Four armies is a lot of stuff as it is, particularly the way I buy for them(lots of everything usually). My Tau collection is the most under control at this point. Here is a pic of a Tau Gun Drone and a Tau Shield Drone:

25-12-2008, 09:37
Hmmm... Somehow I overlooked posting this one. A couple Stealth Team members and a Pathfinder Team Shas'ui:

The inspiration for my Tau color scheme comes from the Macross Saga(Robotech). Thinking Rick Hunter's Veritech fighter was a little bit garish with its red and white color scheme(it would still work well on Tau though), I decided to go with something more like Max Sterling's Veritech color scheme:

I have of course modified the color scheme to fit the Tau models, but Regal Blue, Ghost Grey/Skull White, and Chaos Black are the colors I am using. I am happy with the overall look.

25-12-2008, 10:49
Here are few more old school 2e era pics, this time of an unfinished Stormtrooper squad and their Chimera. Once again, these are painted in a very clean 2e era style(and yes, the two guys on either end are the old 3-piece plastic Stormtroopers).

25-12-2008, 17:46
Sometimes I wonder why the painting style changes so much over time....always funny to see those old crisp neat painted models from then....and the gritty dirty realistic models from now...great nostalgic stuff there shabbadoo :)

25-12-2008, 20:36
I really like the colour scheme you've chosen for the tau, very nice. Also good to see your 2nd edition stuff, everything was so much cleaner in that era of 40k (except my caked on attempts from my pre-pubescent years :eek:).

26-12-2008, 09:08
Maybe you guys want to see some in-progress shots of something. I'll tell you what- choose something simple for me to paint, and that is among the forces I am painting, and if I have the miniature then I'll do a step-by-step pictorial of the process.

22-03-2009, 23:56
Shabbabdoo how many ork infantry do you have painted and how many will you paint?

13-04-2009, 08:22
Sadly, I only have a few of my Ork infantry painted(I can count them on one hand:(). As to what I have...

2 Warbosses(one of each metal version)

3 AoBR Warbosses

4 Big Meks(KFF, SAG, and 2 of the boss pole one)

1 Warp'ead(new)

35 Nobz(10 Nobz boxed set, 25 AoBR ones)

40 Boyz(AoBR)

20 'Ard Boyz

40 Slugga Boyz

40 Shoota Boyz

20 Lootas

15 Burnas

3 Meks(for either of the above two units)

15 Tankbustas

10 Stormboyz(new)

15 Kommandos(made from Boyz)

20 Grots & 2 Runtherds(new boxed set)

60 Metal Grots

1 Meganob that I forgot to sell(recently found, partially painted even)

1 Deffdread

2 Wartrukks(new)

6 Warbikes

8 Deffkoptas

40 Boyz worth of other loose bits

3 Wartrakks(old style; new drivers/gunners)

Looted Wagon w/ Boomgun





Fight-Bomma(partially painted)


Big Squiggoth(which is the smaller one)

That's about it. Right now I have one set of AoBR Nobs, 10 Lootas, 10 Tankbustas, 20 Shoota Boyz and 20 Slugga Boyz primered and ready to go. I also have all six of my bikes built an redy for primer, plus 4 Deffkoptas built and ready for primer. Most all of this stuff is stock, or with minor part swaps with similar models, so nothing crazy like my one Warboss' bionik arm or anything. The Kommandos are calling out to be built next.

I cut loose quite a bit of older stuff prior to the release of the latest models, so I've been building up a lot of replacements. At this point I can field around 2,500 points built, with around another 1500 or so yet to be built. I'll eventually get a few Battlewagons too. The things I want to get painted first are the models I use all the time:

Warboss w/bionik arm & shoota-skorcha

10 Lootas

Wartrukk & 10 Cybork Nobz

Wartrukk & 12 'Ard Boyz

Wartrukk & 12 Slugga Boyz

20 Shoota Boyz

20 Grots & 2 Runtherds

Looted Wagon w/boomgun


Those things form the core of my army, so they will be painted first. I'll be pretty happy when those are painted.

12-05-2009, 07:59
lovin those old stormtroopers!

any idea on where they can be bought?

26-05-2009, 06:48
E-bay? They'll probably be tough to find as they've been out of production for around 15 years or so.

29-06-2009, 19:05
Here is the developing paint scheme list for the Bad Moons. I'll add more to it as I nail down how I am going to paint certain things.

Bad Moons Paint Scheme Instructions

Color Palette:

Chaos Black
Dark Grey (Vallejo Model color #166/994)
Codex Grey
Skull White
Dark Angles green
Goblin Green
Camo Green
Scab Red
Blood Red
Iyanden Darksun/Bubonic Brown
Golden Yellow
Scorched Brown
Bestial Brown
Snakebite Leather
Bleached Bone
Tin Bitz
Boltgun Metal
Chainmail Silver
Mithril Silver
Badab Black
Devlan Mud
Terra Cotta- Ocre brun(DecoArt “Americana” paint range #DA62)
Black(PLAID “Apple Barrel” paint range #20504)

*All paints used are Games Workshop colors unless otherwise stated.

Ork Skin:

Primer black, touch up with Chaos Black, drybrush w/ Goblin Green, wash w/ Dark Angels Green to tint the Goblin green and any remaining Chaos Black that is showing, drybrush with Goblin Green, light drybrush w/ Camo Green; add further highlights of Camo Green around eyes, mouth, brow line and jaw line when painting the face.

Painting Yellow:

Cover existing paint with Iyanden Darksun/Bubonic Brown, paint two light coats of Golden yellow over it, wash lightly with Snakebite leather(which will enrich the yellow tone), pick out any rivets with Devlan Mud(mixed with Badab Black if you prefer a more prominent rivet), highlight rivets and the edges of the yellow area with Golden Yellow as well as the main area as you wish, highlight top portion of rivets and any hard edges in the yellow area with a 50/50 mix of Golden Yellow & Skull White, final highlight with thinned Skull White on the top portion of rivets and along the upper hard edges of any yellow areas, paint streaks of Snakebite Leather, Devlan Mud, Badab Black, etc. to simulate grime running down from any rivets or other places on the yellow area.

Red Areas:

Chaos Black base coat, paint with Scab Red, pick out any rivets with Badab Black, highlight with Blood Red, final highlight on upward-facing hard edges with thinned Skull white. Add grime as with painting yellow areas.

I just dropped in on this thread and I really like your ork paint jobs so far. :D
But question about your paint scheme quoted above, will the orks looks like this model of yours?

http://www.warseer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30207&d=1194608312 This one is my favorite. :D

And secondly what is your paint scheme for your Deff Dreads? They look awesome.

02-07-2009, 09:21
The paint scheme I gave for the Orks will turn out like this:

The pic of the Ork you posted does use the exact same order of colors, but there was more controlled hand painting of the final two skin tones. As that added a lot to the amount of time required to paint the skin I opted for the simpler method I described. Granted, this one is a little more messy as it regards the painting of the skin, but I didn't put much extra time into him. Viewed at actual size, he looks nice enough.

The Deffdread is(so far) as follows:
1. Primer black.
2.Touch up with Chaos Black.
3. Drybrush heavily with Tin Bitz.
4. Drybrush somewhat heavily with Boltgun Metal.
5.Wash with very thinned down Terra Cotta- Ocre brun(DecoArt “Americana” paint range #DA62). Apply extra washes into recessed areas to build up the amount of rust until you achieve the look you want. Vary the hue of the wash by adding a touch of orange if you like.

As to the rest, see "Painting Yellow" and "Red Areas" that I mentioned previously. I have done a little more work on the Deffdread(and other things) so maybe I'll post an update soon.

31-10-2009, 15:26
Love this log to bits, the models, the details, the time and effort.

On your most recent work, i beg you to darken the orc, not as an order, but i like darker skinned orc as they are said to be dark green, i tend to build up to a lightish green mixing in purple and brown before washing it down with a mix of purple and brown to create a dark natural green colour. The light green looks to cartoonish for my eyes and some people mentioned that method to me and i think it turns out great, especially with yellow's in the ork attire and the red trimmings.

02-11-2009, 11:30
The flash photography makes it look a bit brighter than it actually is, but not by much. they could use a Dark green wash to tone them down a bit, but I'll likely reserve that for the Nobz, as not all Orks are dark green. The bigger they are the darker they generally are. And besides, Orks can have varying shades of skin tones too. Some people paint squigs red(???), but they are related to Orks too. I plan on painting mine like toads- darker green with pale bellies; maybe some spots on them. They'll look more like they are part of the Ork genome family than the red ones do. The Ork stuff is meant to be simple though and nothing special. Simple techniques combined with neatness is all I plan for them. I might chuck that plan out the window when I paint the HQs though. Depends on if I get inspired or not.

I'll post more pics when I get to working on things again. In addition to not managing my time properly, I have been working on other projects; mainly a unit of Bretonnian Men-at-Arms. I have a unit of 20 more than half way done. I am also building more Orks(I finally picked up a Battlewagon) and Space Marines. The problem is, my game group has ADD. Well, most of them do anyways(not really ;)), so we jump around from thing to thing often enough to throw a wrench into most plans where one could get really inspired and work on something to completion. To make matters worse I am noted as a slow painter to begin with, so this really screws me over. Yes, the bastards are working against me purposely I tell you! :p