View Full Version : V_ol_tron's orky conversions and scratchbuilds, and some painting too!

09-02-2008, 17:32
A little while ago I put a poll up to ask how I should paint my ork army. I got some good feedback, so I decided I should do a project log. Any comments or criticism would be greatly appreciated.

The whole army is slowly getting redone. I've got about 6000 points worth of stuff, so this could go on for a while. Here's a short list of some of the upcoming projects, I'm working on a big mek list at the moment.


9 Scratchbuilt killer kans DONE!
a scratchbuilt shock attack gun DONE!
paint the big mek w/ kff DONE!
lootas DONE!
paint burna boys DONE!
5 scratchbuilt deff dreads
scratchbuild the stompa's from the apocalypse book
scratchbuild 3 battlewaggons
scratchbuild some deffkoptas

so, starting with the kans, here's the prototype i came up with, its mostly plasticard and acrylic tubing.





09-02-2008, 17:40
more pics of the kan. I used magnets for the arms so i can do up all the weapons, easier to transport as well.





Kasrkin 666
09-02-2008, 17:44

Thats amazing! Can't wait to see what else you make.


09-02-2008, 17:58
Here's the shokk attack gun. made it from a regular boy that I biggified. the gun was a lascannon from a land raider i think. the gears were from a toy car that i took the wheels off of for my trukks. saved me $40 w00t! Yep, I'z a stoodint wiv no teef.





09-02-2008, 18:02
more pics of the SAG.





Red Skullz
09-02-2008, 18:12
Some fantastic scratchbuilds here!!

Can`t wait to see more :D


09-02-2008, 18:20
After the prototype kan (and some minor design changes) I started mass production! Here's where I'm at with the other 8.






Metal Fingered Villain
09-02-2008, 19:56
This is some good stuff, the plethora of Kans is impressive, have fun with them rivets! :D The SAG is pretty slick too, get to some paintin.

09-02-2008, 20:04
The sheer number of scratchbuilds alone is impressive let alone the great craftsmanship.

10-02-2008, 16:24
Thanks guys!

Hopefully I'll get the kans done by the end of the week, I've got a game set for next sunday. After that it'll be time to paint the meks.

have fun with them rivets!

Come on! It's only like 200... ...per kan.:cries:

10-02-2008, 18:13
great stuff dude, worthy of the title Orkish.


14-02-2008, 19:03
Oh, great scratch building there! Looking very stompy!

14-02-2008, 19:51
Lol great stuff, but I think the 1st prize goes to that shokk attack gun its just about the best thing ever!

Death Korp
14-02-2008, 19:58
Bloody hell, them kans look ace! I really do wish i could model like that .... :)

Keep it going :)


Grumbeard Starbreaker
14-02-2008, 20:32
I have always said that ork dredds and kanns were walking trashcans.
Buy you realy made pimped up trashcans!
Love the shock atack gunn, it should be interresting how you are going to paint it.

It would be realy neet if you changed the poses of some of the kanns.
You could always make a half trashd kann with one flank of the crew compartment destroyed so you can see the gretchin driver.

17-02-2008, 04:19
thanks for the c&c guys!

I've been working on a the kans a little more, I took your advice grumbeard and tried posing them a few different ways. have a look.





17-02-2008, 04:25
stomping details.





17-02-2008, 04:26
running details.




17-02-2008, 04:56
Hey those are looking raelly good.

keep up the good work.

17-02-2008, 10:38
Lol ace concept, i love that running killkan. great work vol!


21-02-2008, 18:54
I'm nearly done building the kans, just the rivets left, which are driving me crazy. So I stopped that for a second to paint up the first kan. The kans are bad moons as well as the kff mek (he built em after all). the gun was my take on the kustom mega blasta. so here's the first one.

just a quick paint job to have punch at arms length (I gotta do 9 of these afterall), a bit sloppy up close though. my first try at oxidized bronze as well. i might do chipped paint, but a fresh coat of paint is also very bad moons, feel free to give your two cents on the matter.

Otherwise, C&C would be greatly appreciated.

note: the lighting on the last 2 pics is off (stupid camera) the first two are much more accurate to the real colours.





Red Skullz
21-02-2008, 20:12
Very snazzy paintjob! I`m a huge fan of yellow schemes :D


21-02-2008, 21:43
Wow! I'm really impressed by your conversion skills. My own killakans look like neanderthal cave art when compared to leonardo da vinci's mona lisa...

And the SAG is really nice too. Good luck with the painting. Dipping I presume?

03-03-2008, 04:38
thanks guys! i got a couple more painted up, the pace has been kinda slow recently due to mid-terms and whatnot, but there's more to come. no dipping here Ironjens, just a boat load of chestnut ink.

so here's the 2 new ones, and the 3 together.

3 down, 6 to go.





03-03-2008, 04:40
the other one.





03-03-2008, 04:43
all 3 together!! plus a closer shot of the tank of the first new one.





Col. Wales
03-03-2008, 05:23
Nice Job the Bronze with patina looks spot on.

19-03-2008, 06:50
Gah! midterms have been keeping me away from my projects for the last couple of weeks, so progress has been slow. I'm nearly done painting the rest of the kans, but I decided to take a break from them to put together some lootas. I bought 8 of them and converted the other 7 to make a full squad. I had a load of crisis suit bits left over so i put them to good use.

I recently noticed that i've broken with tradition by not posting my workspace, so here it is in all its glory, along with my freshly converted lootas.

C&C would be welcome and appreciated.





19-03-2008, 06:54
And here's some individual shots. my fav is the guy with the two missile pods and the launch button.





19-03-2008, 12:50
Great looking orks you've got there!

What did you use for the tank on the Kan? Is that a part from the Manufactorum-set?

19-03-2008, 18:06
Ooooh, I just love those lootas, they make my own look really bad since I just stuck a load of guns on them. I concur that the missileguy is most ace but for me the biggest eye opener is seeing your rivets. Had I not seen them I would have been stumped as to what to do with my ork vehicles now that I've run out of old school rhino railing. Now I'll just roll out the greenstuff. Thanks man!

19-03-2008, 18:42
Absolutely stunning - can't believe I missed this the first time..

Any chance of a run down on how you make the Kans? They look as good if not better than the official ones

19-03-2008, 21:02
you have really inspired me with these, fantastic stuff

20-03-2008, 03:14
Thanks for the input guys!:)

OnnO: The tanks were made from scratch, its basically a piece of tubing with two halfs of a big bead on either end. plus rivets of course.:p

EvilMonkee: I'll see about doin up some drawings for how i put em together, check back in a couple of days, ill post up some plans.

so i figure the next stuff on the to-do list is finishing the kans, and then ill probably get started on painting the big meks.

20-03-2008, 18:51
Cheers, they are too good to pass up on looting from you - which one Ork to another I feel is as big a compliment as can be paid :)

20-03-2008, 19:30
howdy again.

i did up some sketches this morning that show a basic run down of the parts and how to do it. these with the WIP pictures on page one should give you a pretty good idea. nothing too fancy here, just lots of plasticard, tubes, wires, glue, and time. these things can take a while, and you may want to kill yourself when you get to the rivets. Loot away good sir!!

also if anyone has any questions stick em up here in case anyone else is wondering the same.

I would love to see anyone's builds of these, let me know if you do em, hell, throw em up here if you dont have a log. just be sure put your own spin on it, no two big meks build the same way!

also, heres the thing i used for the bases.






20-03-2008, 20:21
Superb diagrams - thanks a million for sharing - very interesting to see how someone comes up with these things. I am more a kitbashing Mek than a plasticard guru but will deffo give this a whirl.....

29-03-2008, 20:47
howdy again,

i just put together a big squad of flash gits. They're all supposed to be nobs in the new dex so i had the idea of using regular boyz and "truescaling" them. i pretty much just put some platform shoes on them and extended them at the waist and covered it with a plate, i think it works out, I'd love some input or ideas on how i could better "nobbify" boys though. the last pic has a regular boy in the mix to show the size difference.

I'm gonna do up kaptin baddrukk soon, just waiting to get a used warboss model off of my buddy. gotta do some ammo runts too.

the kans are almost done, 5 down, 4 with just highlights left, next post they'll be done i swear.

as always, I'd love some c&c. Thanks ladz!





29-03-2008, 21:30
Great looking ORKS you've got there v_ol_tron ! I like the Lootas the most! Good job man!


29-03-2008, 22:23
I'm sorry to bring such a base concept as money into this thread, but being a poorish student myself I got to wondering, have you priced up these creations?

I don't know if you made them for cheapness or for the heck of it (by the craftsmanship I'm guessing the latter!), but with all that plastikard of different thickness and studding and so on do you know what they cost each?

Truly brilliant work though, a true artisan.


29-03-2008, 22:52
Thanks guys!:)

I'm sorry to bring such a base concept as money into this thread, but being a poorish student myself I got to wondering, have you priced up these creations?

I don't know if you made them for cheapness or for the heck of it (by the craftsmanship I'm guessing the latter!), but with all that plastikard of different thickness and studding and so on do you know what they cost each?

I am infact a poorish student myself, which is the main reason i got into trying to scratchbuild and convert stuff, MY @$$ IS BROKE! But i really love building them and having "my own" models too. So i guess its a little of column A and a little of column B.

The trick to getting plasticard is to go to an industrial supplier of plastics, bust out the yellow pages and you'll find one somewhere. they usually sell styrene sheets in 8 x 4 feet whith the price going directly by thickness. they had a minimum order of $50 so i went with a buddy and we split everything in half. we got 4 different thickness sheets and a whole load of acryilic rods (they didn't have styrene rod :() for about $100, we now both have nearly inexhaustible supplies. so in terms of material cost per kan, less than a buck each, they just take forever to make is all.:p

30-03-2008, 20:51
I love your flash gitz, I wish I'd done the guns the same way you did, they look absolutely loaded with dakka! Super sweet.

When I did mine I based them on fantasy black orcs but I think yours look nice, just a bit difficult to see how they are in this state.

I you're interested in how mine look take a peak at this (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee89/Ironjens/flashgitz2.jpg?t=1206907188) and this (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee89/Ironjens/flashgitz1.jpg?t=1206907255), but now their snazzgunz look posetively dwarfish... I tried to make them look like the picture in the codex with the glyph-plate bands running down their sides, but I guess they'd look nicer if done in plasticard.

Anyway, love your work, keep doing what you do!

26-04-2008, 02:48
Hi again,

school's finally done for the semester so I'm back at it. I've finally finished up all 9 kans. w00t! here they are, more posts will follow now that i have my life back!


26-04-2008, 07:45


dude fricking wow! im subscribed

27-04-2008, 20:13
Kick ass and super sweet! Keep 'em coming!

Mr Feral
27-04-2008, 20:27

Mad props for your excellent and very bright yellow Killa Kanz! I can't think of anything constructive to say, so well done!

Lord Malorne
27-04-2008, 20:31
Cool :D. Its even cooler that you decided to do Bad moonz painting.

28-04-2008, 16:07
thanks guys!

well now that those kans are out of the way, ive decided i need to do something about the 100 and something gray/primer coloured footsloggas on my shelf. ill post up the first batch when they're done.

maybe in the meantime ill put up some picks of the whole army as it stands, a lot of it is going to get touch-ups.

28-04-2008, 16:22
I love them all. Kanz, lootaz, gitz

All amazing


My name is Daniel and i am a wargamer

06-05-2008, 16:26
wowoww i just can say that maybe you're crazyy,i really like your killa kan and the stompa,great job man

07-08-2008, 10:01
Now thats wicked! them Killaz are the best Iv sen! and i love your paint job rly stands out. great job

22-11-2008, 14:45
Got a link for this thread off another Forum and felt your Kanz were that good I had to register to say so. I think that says it all.

Keep up the good work.

22-11-2008, 17:59
Voltron, I saw your post in my thread and had to look into yours consequently, and what do my eyes see?
NO UPDATES since April?

Seriously, dude, your stuff is amazing. Those kanz, man. Arenīt yours those scratchbuilt ones? Those where thereīs plans for on the net?
At least I have those plans, and these were the kick off for me to start my Orks.
Just so that you know ;)

So get going again man!


24-11-2008, 21:53
Thanks for the support guys!:D

I've been lazy with the log for the past few months, but I've gotten a few things done, mostly trying to grind out troops and work on my daemon project. I did finish my two big meks though, which I will take pictures of and put up soon. I also did up two mobs of boys and the lootas are almost done.

So, I'm gonna take some pics and do a nice big update tonight or tomorrow.

thanks again guys!

25-11-2008, 03:57

w00t! after months of neglecting the log, I have finally gotten off my @$$ and taken some pics!

Here's the KFF big mek





25-11-2008, 04:01
Shokk attack gun Big Mek!!





25-11-2008, 04:04

here's the dynamic duo, 2 mobs, and the first 6/15 lootas.
the rest of the lootas just need some yellow highlights at this point.





25-11-2008, 04:06
This stuff is sick. I really love everything. The painting is very bright and well shaded. Just ace

25-11-2008, 21:35
Dictator: Thanks man!:)


YES! Another update! Those lootas are painted. half of them are the standard models, the rest are conversions.




25-11-2008, 21:41
close ups!!!!!





25-11-2008, 23:57
this army looks great! keep up the good work

TigerBear MkIII
26-11-2008, 15:00
That Mek w/ Shockk Attack Gun Looks Better than the Metal GW one those KAns are amazing too nice job on the conversions and paint jobs:D

26-11-2008, 16:59
Excellent work man, I really like your painting. How do you get plasticard into bent shapes? I tried heat, but that didn't work out so well...


26-11-2008, 17:49
Nice work Vol, infact i like the yellows a fair bit, nice and clean. make da orkz prowd!


30-11-2008, 14:36
Thanks for the compliments guys!

Scrap-miester: As far as bent plasticard goes, I really just bent it by hand with no heat or anything and glued it into place, it only really works with thin stuff like 0.030" and under.

Another update!

finished the burna boys!

Also I started my dreds. They have to top my kans in terms of stompyness, killyness, and general badassery. So, they're gonna be big. I'll try to give a more complete step by step process this time, should be fun. Enough jibba jabba, here's teh pics!!~1~!!one~!1





30-11-2008, 14:40
here's the first pics of the dreds gettin started. the bodies are pvc tube, plasticard, and MDF so far. I'm gonna get the overall shape done up and then go on to the detailing.



30-11-2008, 15:06
hmm seem a little bricky to me, however the boys are looking pretty tip top!


30-11-2008, 18:29
One cannot have enogh dreads! That is for sure.

I do not see the brickness, seems like the basic hull as in the original models. But what do I know, I donīt even own one, and those Iīll have will be scratch too.
SO do a decent documentation, that I can steal from you ;)

Canīt wait for the new grots, for I need some for my dreads and kans. Any such thing on your side planned?


01-12-2008, 15:04
with you being a poor student you should make up the kans and sell them. people here would pay a good price i'm sure, not just if you made it cheaper than GW, but as the quality is great!

01-12-2008, 18:29

did some more work on the dreds today. I'm still mostly trying to get the overall shape before the detail work comes in. So i did parts of the legs and a foot. the foot is going to be cast cause it's long and complicated to make. I'll probably do the same for the CCWs and guns and the engine on the back but so far I'm just playing by ear (like a real big mek should).

here's some pics!

Warflag: I was planing on getting a box of the grots to turn into ammo runts and oilers. Its always fun to have them climbing all over stuff.





01-12-2008, 19:47

I got some more done last night. The three parts there are going to be cast. what are they you ask? stay tuned to find out!





01-12-2008, 20:32
Very nice work here, Kan's, Lootas scratch built shock-attack? You sir are an artist!

Although I agree on the dreads looking blocky as of right now, your other builds have convinced me that they'll end up neato.

Getifa Ubazza
01-12-2008, 21:47
I really like your Killa Kans. Very Orky.

15-12-2008, 04:26
Hey again!

I finally managed to pull away from the studies for a day so I did some more work on the dreds. i finished up all the parts that were to be cast and made the molds last night and today and I just pulled out the first batch of arms and gubbins.

I hope I'm gonna have enough resin left to finish everything, I think i may fall short of 10 batches though. :mad: anyway, here's a few pics of where I'm at so far. I'll take some more detailed pics of the whole assembly and "how to" business later on. It's all planned out upstairs just you wait n see.;)

These dreds are gonna make my kans look like the weedy grots they are. :evilgrin:


28-12-2008, 01:03
Update time!

The first dred is 90% done! I just gotta do up the guns, put the gas tanks on the back, and a couple little details. after this I'm gonna do up the other 4 in one shot and do a big walkthrough deal.

C&C welcome!!





28-12-2008, 01:08
more pics!!!!





28-12-2008, 16:59
I'd just say that it looks stupendously sweet and I'm really green of envy. I wish I had your skillz :p

30-12-2008, 03:04
hey hey hey!

Thanks again to everyone for all the compliments.:D

So, today I've been trying to grind through some more troops while casting up the rest of the parts to finish my dreds.

Now that the casting is done I'll finish this squad tonight, and then i can start putting the other 4 dreds together in various high flying action packed poses, YAY!!




30-12-2008, 09:12
Very impressive builds. I love the attention to detail and realism. And magnets of course! :D

Quick qs. The right eye on the skull (insect like), howdya do it? And the claws. What thickness plasticard?

30-12-2008, 09:48
xedric: Thanks man! :D The eye is the searchlight from the chaos vehicle upgrade sprue, It's white cause I cast it. The thickness of the claws is 0.100 inch, which is close to 2.5 mm if you work in metric.

So, it's going on 5 am, I finally finished that squad of boyz. so tomorrow I'll be getting started with the dreds and that tutorial i promised.

Any more questions, comments, or criticism is more than welcome!:D

31-12-2008, 10:57
I thought it was a cast searchlight, just wanted to be sure :)

And 2,5mm you say... Thanks!

And heres me nitpickin a little. Hidden magnets look much better. Like the dreads. The cans magnets are showing and it bothers me a little :p So the cans only get a 9 out of 10 while the monster wicked dread gets a full 10+ :D

01-01-2009, 10:30
your plasticard fu is azwesome, really good - and the fact that you cast the dread after you made it great!

youll ahve a unique great looking army in no time!

01-01-2009, 11:13
Subscribed, awesome looking conversions....... keep it up!!

01-01-2009, 13:28
These dreads are absolutely ridiculous.

What I would love to see is a walkthrough of the casting process

Terminator jax
01-01-2009, 17:23
Good orks here, plasticard and painting is amazing, but one thing and sorry if you've said already because i must have missed it but on post #65 on picture 2 there is an ork with a very cool helmet with lots of lenses and i was wondering if you could post a tutorial on how you did it, thanks.

01-01-2009, 17:41
What I would love to see is a walkthrough of the casting process

nothing to add other than QFT. as im looking to cast my own scratchbuilt truescakle amrine parts, it will be very helpful

01-01-2009, 22:18
thanks for all the feedback guys!:D

Terminator jax: that dude's helmet is just the little camera part that goes on top of the land raider sponson with part of a choppa glued on top. i pretty much just hacked his head off from the nose up and slapped that on in its place.

Arsenal, synapse: you want a casting 101? you got it. also, if anyone has questions about casting their own parts and whatnot feel free to PM me and I'd be happy to give you a hand.

01-01-2009, 22:39
Subscribed, your work is excellent. Especially like the shokk attak gun. Though was a little disappointed to see you'd painted the bit on the back as brass. Would've looked really cool left clear with a snotling inside it!

02-01-2009, 22:33
finbob: Honestly, I had thought of doing the clear tank with the screaming snotling in it after i already built the whole thing, so it was kind of too late. But I just might make another 2 or 3 of these to have the apoc formation, so that could be a project for the future.

Alright, time to kick off the casting 101. first things first, yall have to do some homework. :D


these guys are a supplier of mold making stuff, and that page a has a bunch of good articles of basic mold construction. It'll give you an idea of what a 1 part mold and a 2 part mold is. there's more than one way to skin a cat, so look up as much on that site as you can.

if you wanted to get your hands on some silicone and casting resin, make sure it says "no degassing required" unless you happen to own a vacuum chamber. smooth-on has one called oomoo or something, never tried it though. but i used some of their other one's at school and they worked well.

this is the one that I used, it was great, real easy to use, and pretty cheap. I recommend it.


There's 2 versions of the kit, the only difference being that the one they ship outside the us doesn't have the spray mold release agent (not a big deal).

anyhow, I'm gonna do up some pics and get back to this with how i did the parts for the dreds. stay tuned.

edit: I found this little guide too, he goes over strategies for setting up molds, really good for beginners in my IMO.

http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.danperezstudios.com/images/workshop/molding_casting/undercut.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.danperezstudios.com/workshoppages/molding_casting.htm&usg=__o9ChDLQTYmHEl0kPG7wPAevF5_g=&h=432&w=400&sz=8&hl=en&start=5&tbnid=VyyZkL2bQ28xSM:&tbnh=126&tbnw=117&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dundercuts%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3D G

03-01-2009, 01:06
I'll just take a couple of lines here to go over some general casting guidelines and tips.

As far as mixing and pouring and all that jazz goes, it varies with the brand you use, so just follow the instructions that come with the kit and you should be fine with that end. The tricky part of casting is knowing how to set up a mold that is going to work properly, by that I mean the plastic will fill the cavities nicely and you'll actually be able to pull your part out afterward. You should be thinking about how to cast parts from the start of when you build them, some shapes are just flat out not castable.

So naturally, a one part mold is the way to go, since you don't have to worry about bubbles and you can get away with some small undercuts. always make parts you want to cast to be done as a one part mold if you can, it makes life easier.

Here's the one part molds I did with the patterns beside them


a good thing to do if you have a whole bunch of little parts is just to make one mold for all of them together. As you can see there i did the other part on its own because it needed to be twice as deep as all the others, so this cut the amount of silicone i needed in half.

03-01-2009, 06:11
wont the resin on the top of those casts end up concave? or does it dry flash with the mould?

03-01-2009, 06:34
synapse: The plastic doesn't shrink upon curing, so if you get it flush with the surface then it stays nice and level. however if you get bubbles in your resin when you mix and pour it sometimes expands a bit and and goes convex. You get bubbles if you mix your resin to hard, so stir lightly.

what i do is fill the mold a little bit over the edges, shake the bubbles out, then scrape the whole surface off with the broad side of a popsicle stick.

03-01-2009, 06:53
i see, thanks! maybe one day ill get round to casting my truescale marines.

03-01-2009, 10:13
Looking great, your Orks are getting better and better.

V_ol_tron, where do you buy your castig materials?
Question goes for both for the molds and resin.

03-01-2009, 10:15
This is officially now one of my favourite PLOGS on the whole of the net. Those Kans and Deff Dreds are exceptional!!!

04-01-2009, 18:57
Thanks again for the compliments guys!:D

Synapse: Dude you should make the entire world eaters pre-heresy legion!
OnnO: I put a link to the store I got my stuff from on post 89 dude.;)

Triszin The Wrath God
04-01-2009, 19:09
cool i've been wondering how to make molds and casts, thanks. i might have a go at this since sculpting a bunch of torsoe's will become rather annoying after a while.


04-01-2009, 19:11
Synapse: Dude you should make the entire world eaters pre-heresy legion!

cool. 17 down... 9,983 to go :D :(

04-01-2009, 19:15

Time for 2 part molds.

Here's the main block for the claw.



for this one i just stuck it to the side of the little yellow box before pouring in the silicone. The side is cut out in this picture, but the box was intact when I poured the silicone.



04-01-2009, 19:22
Here's what it looks like after pouring. when it was cured and ready to go I just popped out the block and chopped it down the middle with an x-acto where i wanted the parting line. You kind of have to do this operation blind, so you really need to know your part.


and here it is ready to cast. Just gotta pour the resin in the hole.


04-01-2009, 19:32
this part was a little trickier to do. I basically had to put it on stilts to pour the silicone into the box, these stilts were later used as my injection point and vents. I hope that makes sense.





the resin had to be injected for this one, sometimes gravity isn't enough to fill a mold. in fact, the molds that are used for high volume production are very high pressure, so its no surprise that little hobby ones like this get lots of bubbles.

04-01-2009, 19:34


should have had more vents, oh well, nothing a little gap filler wont fix.:D

04-01-2009, 19:39
and the last 2 part mold. the elbow joint.



for this one i just glued it down inside a plastic shot glass and chopped it afterward. like the claw box i just had to pour in the resin.

04-01-2009, 20:14
Back to the builds!!

here's some shots of the legs gettin put together. 3 of the 5 dreds have ball joints in the ankles in order to put them in cool poses.





04-01-2009, 20:20
I got them all standing now! the bases are gonna get magnetized to the feet. I'm still trying to get through the rough builds before the detailing comes in.

Lots more work to do! Arm poses are gonna get done today. Stay tuned!:chrome:




04-01-2009, 20:55
These builds are fantastic! Good luck finishing the dreads, can't wait to see them.

04-01-2009, 20:59
This is really awesome. You're dreds are very inspiring. Especially I love the klaws.

Scratch on!!!

05-01-2009, 09:48
OnnO: I put a link to the store I got my stuff from on post 89 dude.;)
....Crap.... Uhm, I knew that, really... :)

05-01-2009, 14:20
Good job. Good luck finishing the dreads

05-01-2009, 16:28
Just wondering where do you get that resin casting kit from? And what kind of price are they?

06-01-2009, 07:15
Just wondering where do you get that resin casting kit from? And what kind of price are they?

See post 89, I asked the same thing :)

06-01-2009, 08:40
Hello! I love this thread, and your work is awesome.

Therefore, I am here to HELP YOUR BUBBLE PROBLEM.

Head out to your local store, and buy one of the following:

A cheap motorized sander, or a cheap motorized handheld massager. Basically, something that vibrates. Don't use a 'toy'. (ahem)

After you inject or pour your resin, hold the sander (without a pad, natch) or the massager on the box, and crank 'er up. The vibrations will make all the air bubbles work their way out.

Easy, cheap, and will get rid of most of the bubble problem.



PS: This works on any method of casting, including plastic cups. :D

26-01-2009, 03:53
Hi again!

First off, thanks to everyone for the kind words.

Slipstream: Thanks for the vibra... I mean uhh, cheap motorized handheld massager trick! I tried it on my last little casting project and it worked like a charm.

So, they're done! Had a bit of a delay from starting back at school this month, but I took some time to finish 'em off this weekend. Here's the final builds.

C&C welcome and much appreciated.





26-01-2009, 03:54
And a few more pics!




26-01-2009, 04:41
Waagh, Stompy. Gork and Mork are pleased. :D


Commisar Xi
26-01-2009, 07:17
Those dreadnoughts are ******* amazing, and HUGE! Your killa kan plans are immensely helpful to me, thanks for that!

26-01-2009, 19:23
Those look splendid V_ol_tron! And as mentioned bloody big. Looking forward to seeing them in colour

27-01-2009, 23:39
Wow yuur dreads look ace! I'm in the middle of making mine now and would like to aspire to your level of detail.

And thanks for putting in progress shots of your casting. Makes me more willing to give it a go myself, great timesaver!

28-01-2009, 07:05
Bloody awesome; 'nuff said :)

Mega Nutz
28-01-2009, 07:58
Absolutely love the Kans & dreds, awesome scratchbuilds!

28-01-2009, 16:01
v_ol_tron, good info here. I have a quick question though. I tried casting some of my own stuff, but am running into a problem. I have Armalite (?spelling) resin, and mix it lightly, so there are no visible bubbles when I pour it. The problem is after it gets into the mold it seems to react with something and just start foaming. A couple of times it has foamed up so that almost all of the resin pours out, and I'm stuck with a sponge version of what I wanted to cast. Have you ever run into this? If so, how do you avoid it?

28-01-2009, 18:41

I've never had it happen all that bad. Some resins may need to be degassed before pouring, which means you may need a vacuum chamber. The only solution I can think of otherwise would be to seal off the mold totally after you pour. So fill it to the brim so there's no air pocket, block the holes, and hold it down tight till it cures. bubbles can't form with nowhere to go! :D

hope that helps:confused:

29-01-2009, 18:20
Thanks, that's what I've been thinking, just haven't had a chance to try out yet. This weekend probably will.

29-01-2009, 18:29
WOw, ridiculous scratch builds. They are just amazing. I cannot wait to see 'em painted up!

29-01-2009, 18:45
Wow, Ive never really liked Orks, but yours are great! Your scratchbuilding skills are awesome!

avatar of kaine
30-01-2009, 18:45
I have to say Gork and Mork would be proud (if they existed that is). Good job.

30-01-2009, 18:51
The effort thats in this log is simply AMAZING

congrats sir.


Brother Muninn
30-01-2009, 20:42
Excellent stuff you've got. I've even forwarded your log to all the Ork players I know so they too can be amazed and aspire to such greatness.


31-01-2009, 10:37
Love everything you've done in this log, especially the custom Lootas and the paintjob on the Kans (yellow + oxidized metal looks great). Saved a few pictures for inspiration, hope you don't mind!:D

01-02-2009, 02:35
Thanks a lot to everyone!

Right now I'm going back on the original design and rebuilding everything so the whole dread can be 100% cast with no GW parts. I'm also going to be doing the same thing for my killa kans after this. pics soon.

24-02-2009, 18:25
howdy everyone,

I finally got all the parts for the dred built and ready to cast. Today I'm gonna do up the molds, and hopefully get started casting tomorrow. more to come.



26-02-2009, 20:15
Molds! :eek:moar molds than you can shake a stick at!

i just poured these ones


these ones i finished last night


I'll be done all the molds for the dreds and kans tonight, hopefully I'll be able to cast some stuff.

26-02-2009, 20:19
This all looks bloody brilliant :D
The dread I particuarly admire. Can't wait to see it casted :)

27-02-2009, 06:31
thanks man!:D

I got some more stuff done, time to call it quits for the night. so all the molds are done for the "little ones" as well as the "big ones". i got a few of the "big one" parts cast as well.

tomorrow: testing and building the first batches.





27-02-2009, 09:06
Vol... these look absolutely amazing...

I have to say you have really done a truely incredible job on them!


My name is Daniel and i am a wargamer

27-02-2009, 11:34
holy mother of hell dude hi 5 to these builds make me wont to scratch build ork walkers....AND I DONT EVEN DO ORKS! this is an inspireing blog and it shows your tallents hopefully i can scratch build somthing nice for my tank company or even just for fun. maby even my own walker for orky playes lol because that is impresive man. wookiee gives you 20/10 nice

27-02-2009, 16:25
Thank you both kindly. :D

I started casting this morning, most of the molds seem to be working OK, as in, they fill... mostly. But I'm having some bubble trouble, big time. No matter how much I smack or vibrate the molds the little bastards wont come out of the rivets.:mad: I mean, it's nothing that cant be fixed after with GS, but it would be nice to have no visible bubbles.

So it's off the the store for me, time to build that hyperbaric chamber. The idea is that after pouring the resin you throw the molds in the chamber and pump up the pressure to like 4 or 5 atmospheres, and all the bubbles shrink to super tiny. :chrome:

I'll still cast up a full model of each to build for fun and put together the instructions, and once I get the chamber going I'll start crankin' out the good stuff.

On a lighter note, here's the humble beginnings of the first paintjob. Notice how the little plague marine is totally unaware of his imminent death.


27-02-2009, 16:30

some pics of the casting this morning.

dred parts


the uncooperative weapon sprue

and the kan body, with a base!

27-02-2009, 23:52
Insane! But I love it :)

How come you got into casting? I mean, it's cool and all, but isn't it just getting skills of dubious value in the rest of your life? Or are you just model crazy?

Myself, I'm model crazy, but I've gone down the "make-everything-out-of-cardboard" route. A very useless skill...

28-02-2009, 01:10
Simply awesome! :D
Consider me spending the weekend trying to make something half as good with plasticcard as your inspiring stuff..
Great mate!

28-02-2009, 02:04
Thanks again guys!

Ironjens: I got into casting through school. I did my first degree in industrial design, and we had a big class on making prototypes for our designs. In this class we learned how to make silicone molds and cast parts. So my immediate reaction was to start making 40k stuff.:D

So, today after my bitching about the bubbles I went and did what I said I would do. I went to the store and got me a pressure cooker and built me a hyperbaric chamber like a true mekboy! I put a valve on there so i can fill it with the compressor, I'm putting it up to 4 atmospheres. I'm gonna test out some parts in an hour or so, hopefully this will help. stay tuned, here's some pics!


28-02-2009, 03:26
Great success!!:D

the chamber worked like a charm! no bubbles!! w00t!!1!!1~!one!!`1eleven~1!

I tried a couple of problematic parts and they came out mint. this should make for some very sharp looking parts from now on. Mass production now begins!!

here's the two trial parts.

28-02-2009, 07:12
Insane! But I love it :)

How come you got into casting? I mean, it's cool and all, but isn't it just getting skills of dubious value in the rest of your life? Or are you just model crazy?

Anyone who works with prototype models will generally learn casting techniques. All sorts of industries use molding techniques. You should see how they build the fiberglass hulls of boats- very large molds. Engine blocks and other large metal parts? You guessed it- molds(made of sand no less). The skill is not just for hobby fields. Most every little weird plastic(and often metal) bit you have ever seen in a package at the store once had protypes made for it in a similar way. As rapid prototyping techniques have advanced we now see less and less of this, but the formative knowldege is still useful in manufacturing fields, particularly for smaller companies who cannot afford rapid prototyping machines. Even still, it's cheaper to create one rapid prototype and then cast the prototype using the techniques you see here, so the process is still used frequently enough.

Nice stuff by the way v_ol_tron.

Mega Nutz
28-02-2009, 11:03
Look superb castings, can't wait to see these things built for real rather than the mock ups!

28-02-2009, 14:21
Nice paint job! My other half loves them!
Good idea with the pressure cooker, I hope the resin casts come out alright and I can't wait to see them finished!
Keep me posted! ;D

28-02-2009, 14:51
very cool stuff as usual, really looking forward to seeing a fully painted dreadmob.

01-03-2009, 17:58
Hi again!

shabbadoo: Thanks for expanding on that.:)

For the rest of yall, shabbadoo nailed it on the head in case you were wondering. Thanks once again for all the comments.

For the record, I don't recommend anyone build that pressure vessel unless you really know your way around that sort of thing. I had the main gasket blow out a couple of times while I was testing it and the whole thing got serious lift off. Damn near rocked me in the face too. So yeah, it works great once it's going, but that stuff is dangerous. I'm now using it at 3 atmospheres instead of 4, still works great. I guess it was to be expected, any mekboy worth his salt has had at least a few things blow up in his face.:D

The mold for the guns is giving me a hard time still, nothing that can't be fixed with a little GS though.

Anyway, here's some pics of the parts. The first two pics show all the parts needed for the "Large robot". It needs one set of the first picture, and two sets of the second picture.


01-03-2009, 18:02
More pics!

The first pic shows the parts for the "small robot".

The second and third show the arm with the two close combat options.




01-03-2009, 18:05
These are mighty impressive :D
You've given me a lot of ideas for my own home-grown Kans. You do a great service to Orks everywhere :chrome:

01-03-2009, 18:06
And here's the guns. These things are still giving me a hard time though. They're all set up so that they can be left or right by cahnging the side of the magazine.

Missile launcher

Machine gun


Energy blaster

01-03-2009, 19:27
that is a lot of bits, but I guess thats necessary to get the level of detail you do.
For the small bots, have you made Grotzookas as well?

01-03-2009, 19:36
Alas, I did not make a grotzooka. I might come up with one eventually though. I had some ideas, kind of elaborate though. Could be a project for the future.

pics of the "small robot" coming in half an hour or so. Stupid battery died.:eyebrows:

01-03-2009, 19:41
v_ol_tron your work is really impressive! But more impressive is the truly orky way you build your minis! You are the Ork man!

01-03-2009, 21:22
Thanks chadenej!:D

Here's the final fully cast "small robot".:chrome:



01-03-2009, 21:23
More pics!!!!!!!


02-03-2009, 01:34
Here's the final fully cast "big robot".


02-03-2009, 01:36


02-03-2009, 11:22
Very cool. Those things are monstrous. Im intrigued by your pressure cooker idea. Do you just fill your resin into the mold close the pot and fill it with more pressure?

02-03-2009, 11:41
wow dude those resin cast came out great really smart kits you have created you have really given GW a run for there money. smart kits i'd recomend you to any ork player who wonts a nice big ******* off dreadnaught in there army seriously man really really smart kits 5* ;)

02-03-2009, 11:50
Excellent work! Those Kans and Dreds are simply amazing. I especially like the dred with two arm sets. It just looks orkawaii with those tiny claw and buzz saw.

Also thanks for the links and tutorials ;)

02-03-2009, 13:43
Thanks for the kind words guys. :)

tcraigen: You got it. It's a pressure cooker I got at Canadian Tire. I just plugged up the safety valves and put in a car tire valve to fill her up. I throw the mold in the pot, pour the resin, then close it up and increase the pressure to about 3 bar. All the little pain in the @$$ bubbles shrink down to nothing and when the resin sets, they're trapped that way. Dangerous though, I had the gasket blow out a couple of times and the whole pot went flying, now I strap it down to a chair.

02-03-2009, 14:46
Have you tried reversing that idea? If you were to use a pump and suction out the air you would draw the bubbles up and out of the resin by creating a vaccum. I have done this in very limited ability on a couple of small things by making one with a re-corking kit for wine bottles. If you do it slowly it won't "hick-Up" and explode up words and only thing that can really go wrong is have a seal go as aposed to losing and eye or a face full of shiny bits.

Mega Nutz
02-03-2009, 16:11
Dangerous though, I had the gasket blow out a couple of times and the whole pot went flying, now I strap it down to a chair.

Good to see age old Meks principles in use!!!

02-03-2009, 17:27
Looking awsome! I really love the "big robot" with 4 close combat arms. Sweet!

03-03-2009, 17:34
Thanks for the kind words guys. :)

tcraigen: You got it. It's a pressure cooker I got at Canadian Tire. I just plugged up the safety valves and put in a car tire valve to fill her up. I throw the mold in the pot, pour the resin, then close it up and increase the pressure to about 3 bar. All the little pain in the @$$ bubbles shrink down to nothing and when the resin sets, they're trapped that way. Dangerous though, I had the gasket blow out a couple of times and the whole pot went flying, now I strap it down to a chair.

Wow I'm amazed that it's that violent at three bar, sounds simple enough to do but in practice ensuring it's all plugged up and glued right is another thing.

Have you tried reversing that idea? If you were to use a pump and suction out the air you would draw the bubbles up and out of the resin by creating a vaccum. I have done this in very limited ability on a couple of small things by making one with a re-corking kit for wine bottles. If you do it slowly it won't "hick-Up" and explode up words and only thing that can really go wrong is have a seal go as aposed to losing and eye or a face full of shiny bits.

I could see that working with some molds but on others where the bubbles are properly trapped it would just result in bigger cavities I would have thought.

03-03-2009, 20:18
Not going to lie, I need to go get a towel to wipe up all the drool after seeing these conversions. Awesome job!

04-03-2009, 12:41
Once again, thank you all for the comments. :)

tcraigen: I had originally considered using a vacuum instead, which would work well for open faced molds, but not as good for two sided ones. The reason it blew out those couple of times was because I had the idea of applying a bit of vaseline to the main gasket to reduce the wear on it, because it's so flimsy it just kind of slipped out the side enough to make a gap and decompress. None of the parts were damaged but I had to try it again to see where it failed. As it is now I don't even approach what the metal parts can handle, if anything is gonna go again it will be the main gasket, which will only really be inconvenient. I am however still wanting to make a vacuum chamber to degas my silicone.

Ugh. :(What a week this is shaping up to be. A paper and two lab reports due on top of trying to get a bunch of the robots cranked out for some of our fellow members. Probably gonna have a day or two delay on those, worst case scenario it'll all get done and shipped on Saturday. Wish me luck guys.

Off too school then the dentist to get one of my teef pulled. I wonder if he'll take the toof as partial payment. :D

04-03-2009, 14:26
Let us know wheather he accepted :p

Those casts are enormous. I like how they seem to combine the old design, a bit round, and the new one, which is more edgy.

I wish I had the means to do that kind of stuff, but I fear that would take up too much of my time and money. And then, I do every model completely different, so I would not need to cast parts anyway.

But maybe... I have made my own tank design...

However, good luck on the paper and the lab stuff. And donīt drink too much painkiller :D


04-03-2009, 14:31
hey dude hope it goes well for you at the dentist and i feel the same i hate teeth being pulled any way your stuff looking well good.

by the way speeking of dentists and drill's lol you should make a weapon varient for your kanz whitch is just a huge drill like the one the big daddys carry on bioshock


05-03-2009, 11:59
Sadly da toof was destroyed during the removal process and was no longer valid for use as legal tender, sneaky humie git dit it on purpose I'm sure.

Seriously, this one was worse than my wisdom teef, mouth is not a happy place today. No Muay Thai for me tonight, guess that means I got time for minis!:D

05-03-2009, 12:03
sorry to here about your tooth man aww well in da gud ork style more teeth lol. hey and as you say gives you more time for your minis and a drill arm dor a dreadnought??? lol sorry i am gunna make one soon i jst wont to see a huge sige drill arm or somthing.

05-03-2009, 13:05
Thanks for the kind words guys. :)

tcraigen: You got it. It's a pressure cooker I got at Canadian Tire. I just plugged up the safety valves and put in a car tire valve to fill her up. I throw the mold in the pot, pour the resin, then close it up and increase the pressure to about 3 bar. All the little pain in the @$$ bubbles shrink down to nothing and when the resin sets, they're trapped that way. Dangerous though, I had the gasket blow out a couple of times and the whole pot went flying, now I strap it down to a chair.


Okay, here's some helpful information(intended for everyone) to keep anybody from blowing the lid off of a pressure cooker and killing themselves. For the love of Gork & Mork use one of these instead: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93119

First, a paint tank like this is made to be put under pressure- up to 70 PSI safely. You could probably push it to 80 PSI safely but there is no need- casting resin in this way usually only requires about 40 PSI *AT THE MOST*, which is well within the safe range.

Second, the tank is a good deal larger than a pressure cooker so you can put more/larger molds in it.

Third, this particular tank comes with a pressure release valve(a safety feature), plus a handy air flow control valve(not really necessary for molding purposes, but for painting houses and cars when using an airgun it's a nice feature) and pressure gauge built right in.

I'd also add a shut off valve(http://www.builderdepot.com/browse.ihtml?pid=607173&step=5&prodstoreid=2304 you can find them cheaper than this) and a quick change coupler(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65066)- male end attached to the shut off valve; female end attached to your air compressor hose(this is how mine is configured). Here's the process:

1. Pour/inject your resin, put the molds in the tank, clamp the lid down, and close the shut off valve.

2. Attach the air hose, open the shut off valve and fill the tank up with air until the desired pressure is reached on your pressure gauge (usually 40 PSI), and then close the shut off valve

3. Disconnect your air hose and wait until the resin cures. If you have forgotten to close the shut off valve before you remove your air compressor hose, or open it before the resin cures, the depressurizing tank will suck the resin out of the mold(s) and spray it all over the place. You'll only ever make this mistake once, as it is a pain in the **** to clean up. If you ever do this twice, well, you are an idiot and probably shouldn't be doing this in the first place. :p

4. Once the resin has cured, open the shut off valve slightly and release the air in the tank *IN A CONTROLLED MANNER*. When the air has stopped flowing and your pressure gauge reads *ZERO PSI* it is safe to unclamp the lid and take out your molds.

This is very simple to do in practice, and it only requires a small compressor(models comparable to this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97080 , this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55993 or this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95275 will work fine).

If this all still sounds complex to you then you probably ought not to try it at all, as you would likely be a danger to yourself and others and this will just be one more way you might add yourself to the list of Darwin Award winners(http://www.darwinawards.com/). :D

05-03-2009, 18:51
You lot listen to shabbadoo!! 'e knows a lot a fings!!

Seriously though, thanks shabbadoo, and really great solutions there. I kind of had that, maybe I shouldn't have posted this feeling after I put that up. In future I think I'll keep anything to myself that requires a "Don't try this at home kids" tag line. I did my homework and made sure not to exceed the original safety valve pressure (480 kpa), but **** still happens when you start mekboying stuff around.

I highly recommend that anyone seriously interested in this sort of thing get that tank he put up. That whole system he proposed would make for a phenomenal set up for this purpose. I would have for sure had I known about it. Hindsight is 20/20.

whitewookiee: I think I just might give that drill a go, it would be pretty badass.:D

I'm off to the post office for Warseer's first "big junkyard robot" recipient.

Thanks again shabbadoo.:)

05-03-2009, 18:56
wooooooooooooow sieg drilllll carnt wait o see that my friend ohh yer.

06-03-2009, 22:13
How much are you selling these bad boys for?

06-03-2009, 22:31
I'm so impressed you built your own HB chamber. Hats off and kudos to you sir.


08-03-2009, 05:04
Thanks again ladz,

Well, today I finished casting up my 2nd order for another member, gonna ship that out tomorrow. I think the next thing to do is cast up my dread mob. I'm thinking a total of 10 dreads and 30 kans would make for some colorful apocalypse games. :) After that it's stompa time.

stay tuned.

08-03-2009, 05:26
All I can say is these are phenomenal. I love scratch builds.:) One question that I had was how close are the def dreads compared to GW?:confused:

08-03-2009, 05:29
Well, my "big junkyard robot" is way bigger check some of the pics in the middle of the log. My small ones are about the size of a deff dred.

Bigger is ALWAYS better. :)

08-03-2009, 17:03
indeed bigger is always better and you stompa? are you planning on casting and selling them and what are they going to look like roughly?

08-03-2009, 20:09
Would have thought they would be rather expensive to cast

08-03-2009, 21:06
whitewookiee: I wont be doing any molds for the stompas, so these wont be for sale. They're probably going to be similar in size and shape to the GW ones, but obviously with my personal spin. :)

Yayale: The molds were expensive. I easily used over $100 worth of silicone for the big robots. The actual resin isn't super expensive per model, just very time consuming to do a good job. Just casting up all the parts for the big one takes over 3 hours if all goes well.

08-03-2009, 22:28
The time , the effort and results are just amazing. This is one of the best ork blogs here on warseer. Keep up the great work.



09-03-2009, 00:58
I've attached a couple of pics of the air tank set-up and the type of small compressor I normally use. I have over 15 years of experience working with this sort of set-up.
This is a very nearly idiot proof set-up, and trust me when I say that this is about as safe as it can get, and about as cheap as it can get. We are still talking about roughly $200 US to get all of this though, and that is not even including the cost of the rubber and resin which could run you another $100-$300 US depending on how much you get and who you get it from.

So, this is not for the casual hobbyist who'd rather spend their money on models.

The first pic is just of the the air tank and compressor. I've removed the air regulator(the big black clunky bit in between the pressure gauge and the tank) as it isn't necessary for our purposes here. You can see that I use a quick-change set-up on this cheap coiled yellow air hose. We're not dealing with very high pressure here, so even one of these cheap coiled plastic hoses works just fine.

The second pic simply shows how the shut-off valve is arranged.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled Orky programming.;)

10-03-2009, 03:05
lorcan: Thanks man!

Shabbadoo: That set up looks great. I was thinking of throwing a gauge on my tank, but for the time being I'm using the regulator from the compressor to keep it at 40 psi. maybe I'll throw that valve on there too. I'm pretty sure the first thing that's gonna go on mine is the main gasket, who knows when. The day that comes I'm definitely gonna put together a rig like that. How many psi (or kpa) are you running it at for casting? So far I've found 40 psi does the job.

Off topic, progress has been slow the last couple of days. That tooth extraction turned into a case of dry socket and a big infection, no fun.:mad:

Dry socket = teh suck!!`~1!one!1eleven~!!

Progress will come soon.

10-03-2009, 07:00
40 PSI works very well.

19-03-2009, 01:16

For the last little bit I've been painting up that dred, but I'm taking a little break to do a blood bowl team contract for a buddy of mine. So here's the pics of those, more on the dred later.


22-03-2009, 18:58
Painted the linemen.


22-03-2009, 19:00
more pics!!!!!!!!!


23-03-2009, 05:26
The team is painted!!

C&C welcome!

the team
the blitzers
the blockers
the linemen

23-03-2009, 09:59
good work, they turned out really nice!

23-03-2009, 10:41
Hey man they look so cool.

31-03-2009, 20:25
Great work on those kans and dreds, and I really like you blood bowl team too:D I've been thinking bout making my own kans, now I got a how to guide :)

31-03-2009, 21:54
Anyone who works with prototype models will generally learn casting techniques. All sorts of industries use molding techniques. You should see how they build the fiberglass hulls of boats- very large molds. Engine blocks and other large metal parts? You guessed it- molds(made of sand no less). The skill is not just for hobby fields. Most every little weird plastic(and often metal) bit you have ever seen in a package at the store once had protypes made for it in a similar way. As rapid prototyping techniques have advanced we now see less and less of this, but the formative knowldege is still useful in manufacturing fields, particularly for smaller companies who cannot afford rapid prototyping machines. Even still, it's cheaper to create one rapid prototype and then cast the prototype using the techniques you see here, so the process is still used frequently enough.

Nice stuff by the way v_ol_tron.

my school (nt private thank god) will be one of the first in under six months in the uk to get a rapid prototyping or rip-rap machine. I am heavily involved in the techie dept. (live there) and the techie teacher that runs the young engineers club used to be a design engineer and still has many friendswho like us!

my legions of school made tanks hall crush all my foes then my local gw manager shall ban them for being non-gw and he shall die a little more inside as his soul is consumed by corporate britain!

great work though, molding is good bt you are a great painter

31-03-2009, 22:06
awesome bb team! im surprised ive never seen conversions like these before! great job, love the helmets

01-04-2009, 04:42
Thanks a lot guys!:)

Xarius: I'm ultra jealous of the fact you have a rapid prototyping machine at your disposal, I'd kill for one of those. Sadly my uni doesn't let undergraduate scum like myself touch the fun toys.

Keep an eye on the log for more BB action, and a fully painted dred in the near future. (hopefully by the end of the week)

Colonel Cleric
09-06-2009, 19:56
Were you a Mek in a previous lifetime???

Those Killa Kans are awesome, and the sheer amount of conversions is amazing.

My friend likes to convert all his Orks but you do it brilliantly!

Almost makes me want to start a 40k Ork army......

CC :chrome:

24-06-2009, 19:08
At the request of some other Warseer members I'm putting up some scale comparison pics for the dreds and kans.

More work on this army will follow.





24-06-2009, 20:07
Thanks V_ol_tron, that was really helps. The Big "Junkbot" is big enough to use as a mini-stompa. These guys have some serious bulk on them, but I guess that is the point when you're using them to screen your Boyz. And its size doesn't matter when its picking up the +4 obscuring save from the Big Mek's KFF. :D

24-06-2009, 20:49
awesome log, lots of fun conversions, an usefull information on casting. 5 stars (little circle thingies) for you sir!

24-06-2009, 21:50
I have been watching this log of yours for some time and i must say that it's awesome!
Isn't that dread too big for actual gameplay?
The blood bowl team is really cool too and some nice converted fantasy orks there!

26-06-2009, 14:08
Wow those things are far larger than I thought!
Maybe a touch over sized for my liking but still nice mini's none the less!

27-08-2009, 10:56
Everything is awesome! These are amazing, love all the ork stuff.

27-08-2009, 11:20
some very helpful posts here about vacuum chambers... might need totry experiment with some soon.

great casting, as always

14-02-2010, 01:56

It's been a while, but here's some new stuff

Quick and dirty Old Zogwort



part of the horde

14-02-2010, 02:09


(drum roll)...



Scratchbuilt out of a cereal box and a few random bitz. Still needs highlights on the yellow.

Aside from this stuff, Forgeworld just put out the mega dred. It just so happens it's the same size as mine. The other week we had a big Apocalypse game at the GW for the Nid launch in which I got to use the whole dred mob, using the big ones as mega dreds, brutality ensued.

More to follow soon

14-02-2010, 06:58
We make a good team,
You like showing off good scratch builds
and I like looking at them.

14-02-2010, 15:19
Brilliant mate, cant throw enough compliments at those kans n dreds.

I reckon you've inspired me, Orks being one of the ton of stuff I keep meaning to get round to. Once I finish off the Vamps I'm painting I'm gonna make a start on those orks that have been hiding in my hobby room for a couple of years.

31-05-2010, 02:02
Most of this stuff is going up on ebay. Give it a look. Uncle v_ol_tron needs a car!

08-06-2010, 08:11
Here's the new pics for Jay.


08-06-2010, 08:15

08-06-2010, 08:16

08-06-2010, 08:17

08-06-2010, 13:40
Excellent job on the home made shock attack gun *claps*

08-06-2010, 14:24
Praise to Gork (or Possibly Mork!)

v_ol_tron, you Sir, are a Genius! This is an immensly inspiring and impressive log, and I will be looting like mad from this!


absolutely stand out A1 class Sir!
(Please take 5 of these shiny stars!)

19-02-2012, 22:25
How do you paint your skin?