View Full Version : randyc9999 Log (Eldar, WitchHunters, Others)

08-06-2008, 18:52
Here I have a variety of painting projects: WitchHunters, IG tanks, Eldar, weathering experiments, and so on.

It seems obligatory to begin with a picture of one's workspace, so here it is ...


08-06-2008, 18:55
And here is a closeup of the two different wet palettes that I use.


The one in the foreground is simply the plastic from a typical GW package. The bigger space contains my water, the other space contains some sponge from a GW blister with wax paper on top. The sponge is saturated with water. It keeps paint completely wet for at least 20 hours.

In the background is a commercial wet palette. It works okay but its paper is a bit of a hassle to prepare and it only keeps the paint wet for about an hour.

08-06-2008, 19:04
Given that the title for this log says Eldar and WitchHunters, it seems sensible to begin with chaos ...

This is a piece I entered yesterday in a local painting competition. I was trying to get a dirtier look and even tried some weathering products to help in that regard. However, it didn't win, but I think it was in the top two or three ... out of four !




08-06-2008, 19:10
There was a squad category in this competition, and I was going to enter this stormtrooper squad, but alas, I didn't have time to finish it since I was too busy trying to finish painting my eldar army for the tournament.




09-06-2008, 01:51
One of the heavy supports for my eldar army in the tournament was this wraithlord. First picture, is it after base coating.


The colors for the base coat are:

red - P3 Sanguine Base
grey - Shadow grey (Vallejo Game Color)
bone/brown - P3 Bootstrap Leather
purple - imperial purple (Vallejo Game Color)

09-06-2008, 01:52
Now after finishing the reds.


For the reds, I first inked with combo of red ink + black ink. I then blended with

1. Sanguine Base + Skorne Red (P3)
2. Skorne Red
3. Skorne Red + Khador Red Base
4. Khador Red Base
5. Khador Red Base + Khador Red Highlight
6. Khador Red Base + even more Khador Red Highlight
7. Khador Red Highlight

Steps 3-7 were pretty thinned down with water + matt medium

Purple is a color I have lots of trouble with. I tried the following:

1. Imperial Purple
2. Imperial Purple + Liche Purple (Vallejo Game Color version)
3. Liche Purple
4. Liche Purple + Vallejo Blue Violet
5-9. Progressively added bone to the mix.
10. To make it blend a bit better, I washed it with about 10:1 water:Liche Purple wash.

09-06-2008, 01:53
And here it is as it looked in yesterday's tournament. Just need to get the gems done.



09-06-2008, 02:29
It all looks pretty good! I like the red on the wraithlord.

09-06-2008, 06:57
I was a bit pressed for time before the tournament and I wasn't able to field some of the units that I wanted.

I was planning on using the Avatar as a HQ choice, but I realized a couple days before the tournament that there was no way I was going to get it done (I still had the above wraithlord unprimered, an unpainted squad of guardians, and a partial harliquin unit ), so I decided to go with Maugan Ra. Since it was going to use a similar paint scheme, I decided to paint it at the same time as the wraithlord.

Here it is after the reds have been painted.


And here it is as it was at the tournament. I still have gems and other detailing to do, but it was certainly okay for table-top.


BTW, it kind of underperformed at the tournament. The highlight/lowlight, was dying to four slugga boy pistol shots, despite the 2+ save (4 pistol shots, 3 failed saves)!

10-06-2008, 04:53
For the tournament, I ran two squads of guardians, which in three games managed to stun a single rhino, even with multiple Eldrad guiding. One of these squads had its reds and purples done but everything else still in base coat, as seen here.


10-06-2008, 04:55
The other guardian squad is almost complete. Here are three of them.


10-06-2008, 04:57
And here is the complete squad.


10-06-2008, 05:02
And finally two closeups. The one strange thing you might notice about both guardian squads. I had my son glue the models together (he likes that and playing the game but not the painting), and each and every time he decided to add an unhelmeted male head, it was invariably put on one of the few female guardian bodies. Talk about male boobs ...

http://www.randyconnolly.com/images/eldar/june2008/GuardianA.jpg http://www.randyconnolly.com/images/eldar/june2008/GuardianB.jpg

10-06-2008, 12:53
Wait, people actually like assembling the obnoxious and finicky arms of Guardians? I guess it takes all kinds..

Other than that, pretty good work on the painting. The weathering looks particularly good on the Chaos termie.

10-06-2008, 12:53
Haha. It is awesome your son is interested in the game. Not to sound like a creep, but how old is he?
Anyways, awesome shading and superb quality. I like how you do not highlight, but instead think how lighting would actually react and just shading. It creates a very distinct style that looks nice on such smooth armour as eldar. Keep up the good work.

10-06-2008, 16:18
Wait, people actually like assembling the obnoxious and finicky arms of Guardians? I guess it takes all kinds..

I was quite pleased to hand off the responsibility of gluing those guardians to my son; they are a real pain. He did refuse, however, to glue the third squad of guardians!

Haha. It is awesome your son is interested in the game. Not to sound like a creep, but how old is he?
Anyways, awesome shading and superb quality. I like how you do not highlight, but instead think how lighting would actually react and just shading. It creates a very distinct style that looks nice on such smooth armour as eldar. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for kind words. My 14 year old son introduced me to the hobby a few years back. At some point, he kind of decided that he'd rather have me do the painting rather than him. Unfortunately it was at the same time that I became a bit more slow and careful with my painting. The result: we play a lot of the time with primered only armies.

As for my painting style, I've always thought that the edge highlighting style, while it looks very good on the tabletop, isn't particularly realistic, so I've tried something a bit different with my eldar.

10-06-2008, 19:04
My involvement with 40K began a three or four years ago when my kids purchased the Battle for McCarrage set. They began to tire of marines vs bugs and so I decided to purchase an army as well to give them more playing options. The army I selected was the Witch Hunters and my first paint job was the standard black armour sisters. About a year and half ago (I think) I stripped them, rebased them, and tried a different paint scheme.

Over the next few days I'll try to post more pictures, but here are two Seraphim, one of which is the VSS. I decided to make the colored shrine things count as the Book of St. Lucius for each squad.

http://www.randyconnolly.com/images/wh/seraphim/100_0919.JPG http://www.randyconnolly.com/images/wh/seraphim/100_0920.JPG

Unfortunately, in 5th edition these extra tall models will be at a real disadvantage (I think) with the new LOS rules.

11-06-2008, 01:09
I stopped by my local game store and picked up three of the new GW washes (Black, Flesh, Red).

This is what it looks like after one coat directly on white. Most of the body is flesh, the gun is black, and the clothes are red.


And after two coats.


11-06-2008, 03:58
As promised, here are some photos of the rest of the Seraphim squad. They are not yet complete, and are getting a bit beat up from falling over on the gaming table!


The one on the right is only base coated in a number of places.

11-06-2008, 04:10
Here are a few more of the Seraphim. As you can see, the faces and hair didn't quite work out. The metal of the guns is only base coated grey as well.

http://www.randyconnolly.com/images/wh/seraphim/100_0987.jpg http://www.randyconnolly.com/images/wh/seraphim/100_0988.jpg

11-06-2008, 05:30
I really like the way you have painted the metals both on the sisters and the stormtroopers. Not as flashy as boltgun metal, yet still "feels" like metal.
The red, green and grey on the stormtroopers look good, too. Nice combination of colours.
Thank you for bringing those washes to my attention, I might just have to go and get some of them...

12-06-2008, 03:04
Still trying to finish up the posting of my tournament eldar army. Next is the Fire Dragons.


12-06-2008, 03:07
And the Warp Spiders. These guys are often the match winners for me in the game, but boy do I hate these models from a painting perspective.


12-06-2008, 03:15
My squad of Harliquins. Unfortunately, I ran out of time and didn't get a chance to finish these. The pattern was the first free-hand painting I've ever done.

I'm so used to this squad doing well that the dice gods got even with me in this tournament. In the first game, I charged a squad of fire warriors, and due to the worst dice rolling ever, I lost the combat and was swept!


12-06-2008, 03:22
My squad of Pathfinders. In the same game that my Harlis were swept by Fire Warriors, five enemy shots while I was in strong cover (pathfinder special rule gave me 2+ save) and I rolled five 1s for my cover save. Oh well, a bad day of gaming is still more fun than a good day doing gardening.


12-06-2008, 03:32
One of my two falcons ...

I also wasn't quite able to finish them for the tournament (the gems, canopy, guns, etc).


12-06-2008, 03:34
Two more shots



12-06-2008, 16:11
Now that the tournament is over, I'm a little burnt out painting eldar. The 5th Ed news has got be excited about finishing my WH army. I'm tempted to add some units that I've never really used, like Celestians, Dominions, and Immolators.

I'll show you the scheme I've been using for my regular sister squads and vehicles, and hopefully I'll get some feedback/advice on a color scheme to use for the Celestians and Dominions.


12-06-2008, 16:49
Ouch, I just discovered that the images are being resized via CSS to 800px ... (pause, while I upload resized images) ...

For each of my three sister squads, the VSS's base has a wall with a painting icon, which count as the Book of St. Lucius wargear. The following image shows my three VSS models; the one on on the right is only partially complete (but always carries around her own portable 4+ cover :)). For all my sister models, they are getting a bit chipped, especially around the head.



13-06-2008, 06:26
The Exorcist was the model that convinced me to collect Sisters. Building and trying to paint three of these Exorcists convinced me to collect Eldar.

Over the next few posts, I'll try to pass on some of what I've learned about this model. As you can see, they are not quite done ...



13-06-2008, 17:29
First and most important lesson from trying to paint three exorcists: don't glue the organ bit or the servitor until the painting is done. My first exorcist, shown here, was completely glued and then I started painting. The first picture's arrows below show the areas that become impossible to paint properly if you do this.


For the 2nd and 3rd exorcists, I haven't yet glued these parts on; as a result, the hard to reach places (shown by arrows) are easy to paint.


13-06-2008, 17:33
Your stuff is looking great. I like the way you blend your highlights and lowlights. It looks very nice!

13-06-2008, 17:58
The other main thing I've learned about the exorcist is that it is a real pain to construct. My first exorcist everything fit perfectly. My next two models made me realize that the first was an aberration. I couldn't believe the poor machining of these metal parts. The worst part was the metal base for the organ gun (outlined below).


In order to fit on the tank and for the pipes to fit on top it should be rectangular, but what you get looks more like the following


The solution that worked for me is to wrap the piece in sponge, and then put it in a vice. One can then carefully apply pressure to unwarp it.


Once it is reasonably straight, you will then need to spend a fair bit of time with a dremel (or even longer with a manual file) and also spend time trimming the plastic of the tank. Even after these heroics, you will still need a fair bit of green stuff.

[Glory] Wulf
13-06-2008, 18:10
Oh gosh... I am SO glad I'm using the Forge World Exorcist kit. :)

Great job on them though!

15-06-2008, 09:34
This all looks great, I love your highlighted really thick and clear, your Harlequins look fantastic!

The only i'd suggest is a highlight on the hair of your battle sisters? Just to bring it up a bit more, apart from that it looks brilliant!

15-06-2008, 17:54
The only i'd suggest is a highlight on the hair of your battle sisters? Just to bring it up a bit more, apart from that it looks brilliant!

You're quite right ... I've only based coated (or done some simple dry-brushing) most of the hair in both armies. What do you think for the sister's hair color: all the same color within a squad or different hair?

10-07-2008, 04:10
A local art store was having a going out of business sale the other day and so I picked up an airbrush and compressor for 70% off. My hope is that I am going to use it to paint the four rhinos that form the mobile arm of my sister list. But I need to develop some facility with the airbursh first before I tackle the rhinos.

I've a number of IG tanks bought on eBay sitting around unpainted that I am going to experiment with first. The first thing I decided to try is the salt weathering technique on a primered-only Hellhound.

After some trial and error, I airbrushed the model a dark red, spot covered it in a salt+water mush, left it to dry for a day, and then airbrushed it shadow grey and other parts Vallejo metallic silver (which was a disaster). After this coat dried, I then removed the salt, and voila, instant rust.



These photos show the result after a pin wash with the new GW black wash.

10-07-2008, 04:15
My son has an ancient predator model that had been sitting around with just primer for about five years. I also salt weathered it, but I used two different types of salt: coarse salt and fine table salt. Unfortunately, some of the table salt was way too small and it became fused to the tank. As a consequence, I decided to go further with the weathering.


10-07-2008, 04:21
After using the same salt weathering technique, I tried a new enamel-based wash from MIG, which I was quite happy with. If you don't like the result, you can use a thinner or turpentine coated brush to remove it.


I also used a tan-coloured pigment and then fixed it to the tracks and lower-part of the tank using MIG Fixer.


Other than drying time, the entire tank took perhaps 90 minutes. Most of the time was spent cleaning the darn airbrush!

10-07-2008, 04:25
Here are a few close-ups showing the salt weathering, enamel wash, and permanent pigments. The bumpy surface is from the superfine table salt that couldn't be removed.



10-07-2008, 07:54
very very nice weathering, i might use something like this as an alternate to my method of weathering tanks...


14-07-2008, 18:34
Decided to try another weathering experiment.

Started by airbrushing Tank Dark Yellow to Sand Yellow (both from Vallejo).


14-07-2008, 18:40
I then brushed Future floor wax over the entire model to give it a gloss finish. Next time, I think I will try spraying gloss varnish instead. The rationale for the finish is to make the decals look less like decals and also to protect the paint from some of the weathering coming up.

After the future had dried, I added some decals. First, I put some Micro Set onto the tank, then added the decal, then added Micro Sol on top of the decal. These two products make the decal fit well onto its surface.


To get rid of the silvering of the decal, I brushed some matt varnish on top of the decal after it had fully dried, then when that was dried, brushed some future on top of that.


14-07-2008, 18:51
Now I was ready to begin the finishing. I decided to try using some products from Mig.


First step was a pin wash using the enamel-based Neutral Wash from Mig. This stuff is just great and can be removed/fine-tuned by using a thinner coated brush.

Next I tried some Filters from Mig. These filters are oil paints thinned very heavily with turpentine (I believe somewhere around 95% thinner to 5% paint), and the idea behind them is to enrich and cause variations in the tone of the base colors.

What I learned using them is that filters need to be applied BEFORE the pin wash since the thinner removes the wash. Next time I'll know better. The following two pictures show the result after washing and filtering.



14-07-2008, 18:57
Next I tried a different filtering technique using oil paints and mineral spirits.


14-07-2008, 19:03
In this technique, you place different dots of the oil over the model.


Next, using a broad/flat brush soaked in mineral spirits or turpentine, you stroke over the oil dots, creating a more realistic varied surface.


I discovered doing this step that I made my dots way too big/thick.

14-07-2008, 19:10
The oil takes a while to dry. Here is the result after about a day of drying.


I've also added some additional weathering. Using a torn piece of sponge dipped in dark grey and then with most of the paint removed from the sponge (similar to what you would do with drybrushing), it was splotched at different spots to create the look of random paint chipping.


14-07-2008, 19:12
I also did a little bit of drybrushing and highlighting in a lighter version of the base color.


I'm going to let the oil dry for another day and then I'll start adding some pigments ...

16-07-2008, 21:03
omg this looks amazing man! Everything looks awesome! I was especially impressed by how realisticly you can paint rust/weathering on those tanks, amazing! Keep up the great work!

16-07-2008, 23:01
I've done completed my first go with pigments. I used a green, then dark earth (alomst a grey), and then a tan earth pigment.



16-07-2008, 23:03
More of the same ...



16-07-2008, 23:04
I made a fuel spill by using dark umber oil, lots of turpentine, and then some varnish.


16-07-2008, 23:06
its very nice, and i like where it going but it still seems a bit uniform to be weather, i mean it'd look good with bits of paint flakin off or some rust showing through

otherwise, its great work

edit: more pics since i posted. I absoluty love the tracks, and the section just above the grill is phenominal!


16-07-2008, 23:10
Thanks Mr. Hawke. I quite agree with you that more chippin' and flakin' is needed. I'm starting Russ Experiment #2 and I'll try to do that with the next one.

16-07-2008, 23:58
Time to start the next experiment. This time a Russ in green. The picture here shows the current state, after airbrushing, matt varnish this time, two MIG filters, and a very selective burnt umber+turpentine filter.


After this dries for a day, I'll proceed to a pin wash.

20-07-2008, 18:47
Here are some of the products I used for the filters and the pin wash. After the filters and wash, I also used some two oil colors (black and burnt umber). I placed a few dots in strategic spots and then used a thinnered brush to create streaks.


20-07-2008, 18:50
Here is the result after filters, wash, and scratches.


Two types of scratches/wear were added. First, light green scratches (to represent weathering back to original color, that is, the removal of dust and stuff). Second, black scratches to represent scratches to primer. This wear was added via brushing with sponge and also careful brushing with 00 brush.



Now on to the pigments ...

21-07-2008, 05:20
Finished with the pigments and fixer. I also went over the parts that I wanted bare metal with an HB pencil.


I'm still not satisfied with these pigments...


21-07-2008, 05:35
[Glory] Wulf's log has been showing off some of his fine zealot conversions, which motivated me to snap a few photos of the ones I did a few years ago. I really liked playing with my zealots but now that they are no longer an option in tournments, they have been languising in the back of my painting cabinet. Hopefully, whenever a new Inq codex comes out, zealots will be in there.


21-07-2008, 06:39
The eldar look really good, the Wraith lord looks super clean!

21-07-2008, 06:42
Crazy awesome stuff!


21-07-2008, 15:28
MrSean and MF3000, thanks for your comments!

Here are the ten other zealots



[Glory] Wulf
21-07-2008, 16:03
[Glory] Wulf's log has been showing off some of his fine zealot conversions, which motivated me to snap a few photos of the ones I did a few years ago. I really liked playing with my zealots but now that they are no longer an option in tournments, they have been languising in the back of my painting cabinet. Hopefully, whenever a new Inq codex comes out, zealots will be in there.

They look super! I really like the Fanatic in the first picture. What model (and with which conversions) is that?
Oh, and I like the pirate Zealot. :cool:

21-07-2008, 16:32
Wulf;2798041']...I really like the Fanatic in the first picture. What model (and with which conversions) is that?

Thanks Wulf. The model is actually from the Warmachine line. A friend had some bits leftover from the Harbinger of Menoth that he didn't want, so I gave it an Orc sword and voila, a fanatic with a big eviserator. Given the squad of zealots is 20 models large, I've even been able to sneak it in during GW-sanctioned tournaments ..

Harbinger (http://www.privateerpress.com/WARMACHINE/gallery/default.php?level=picture&id=177)

24-07-2008, 05:19
I just played my first 5th Ed game with my sisters and I've decided that I want to use them for a 2000pt tournament in October. Flamers are great in this new edition and I test drove a list with 4 squads of sisters in rhinos, 2 exorcists, 2 dominion squads in immolators, and 1 celestian squad also in immolators.

I recently stripped the paint from a bunch of the metal sisters (they were the very first models I ever painted), and rebased them.


Given the paint scheme of my existing sisters (see the Seraphim on page 1), any suggestions for the colors to use for these dominions?

29-07-2008, 04:47
Rather than primer with my usual black, I decided to try a grey primer and then did a pre-shading wash with the new GW black wash.



29-07-2008, 04:52
A couple of pages back I used the salt weathering technique. This time, for my sister army's rhinos, I decided to try using a masking solution to get a similar effect. I used Mr. Masking Sol, dipped it with a sponge, and then dappled it onto the vehicle where I wanted the weathering.


29-07-2008, 04:56
I then air brushed my base color (Shadow Grey) onto the Rhinos, and then after it dried, painstakingly rubbed and picked it off with blu tack. This step was a real pain; the salt weathering approach was way easier.


16-08-2008, 15:11
Really nice looking stuff.

Btw, I just have to praise your DIY wet palette you posted up on the first page in this thread, mixed paints drying up on me and spending roughly the same amount of time painting and keeping my paint I currently have on my palette wet has been a contributing factor to not having been able to paint much more then a single mini here and there, but now I hope painting will be smoother when I have a copy of your sweet little wet palette.

Thanks man,

28-08-2008, 04:46
Been busy with life and also some painting. I've pretty much finished a squad of dominions and another squad of sisters.

First, here are the dominions after a base coat (you can see the paints I used for this in the photo).


28-08-2008, 04:46
And here is one half of the finshed Dominions ...


28-08-2008, 04:47
And here is the other half ...


As you can see I haven't done the backpacks yet. I kind of forgot all about them until after I finished the reds. I'll do them when I paint the next squad of dominions.

28-08-2008, 04:49
Here is a close up of one of the Dominions.


28-08-2008, 04:51
And here you can see a bit more closely the liquid goo pouring out of the pipes on the bases.


I used the woodland scenics realistic water project with Vallejo Smoke added to it as well as a tiny amount of green ink.

Marshal Caligula
28-08-2008, 05:04
WOW! All of your stuff is very well done but the sister with the flamer above is incredible. The hair is done magnificently as well is the face. Also, the wear on the flamer looks awesome. Keep it up.

28-08-2008, 05:09
Marshal, thanks! I do have to find a way to zoom in sufficiently to show detail but not so much that I see every blob of paint. The models in reality are much smoother in their blends than I've captured here ...

28-08-2008, 05:27
Here is a closeup of the other two members of the Dominions.


28-08-2008, 05:36
Here is the squad of regular sisters. There are the last of my troopers, and like the rest, they will ride in a Rhino. As you can see, they are also missing their packs and the heavy flamer still needs to be glued.


28-08-2008, 05:37
Here is the rest of the squad.


28-08-2008, 05:38
And a few closeups ...




28-08-2008, 06:50
Simply amazing models, man. I especially like the Chaos terminator... I love the trophies. Very cool.

31-08-2008, 05:13
I've based my Celestians, as well as the Canonness (though I just noticed now that I forgot to include the heavy flamer and melta models in the photo).


Here is a closeup of the bases.


I need to figure out the color scheme for them, given the rest of the army. I'd like them to stick out from both the regular sisters (shadow grey: armour, red: clocks, gold: secondary on armour) and dominions (red: armour, shadow grey: clocks, gold: secondary on armour). Any suggestions?

31-08-2008, 09:23
very cool, love the attention to detail on the bases.


31-08-2008, 16:30
When I first started painting some three years ago, I painted my sisters in the standard balck and red scheme. My first attempt at an IC was this foot Canonness, in which I tried and failed (my paint was too thick back then) to give her gold armour.


I never finished this model, because I soon discovered that a jump pack Canonness was way more effective in 4th ed. Now in 5th, I'm going to go back to a foot canonness riding with celestians.

At any rate, I was considering giving the whole squad (and Canonness) gold armour, because now I think I can paint quite a bit better. If I do, what color should I paint the elements (like the eagle and fleur) that I've painted gold on my dominions and regular sisters (see page 4 for pictures)?

01-09-2008, 01:33
Well, still waiting for any opinions on what colors to use for the celestians. While I wait, I guess I'll start my next dominion squad. Here it is, awaiting the primer.The model second from the left is the VSS. In my army, the VSS have a section of ruined wall with some type of painted element on them, which signifies the Book of Brokeness (i.e., Book of St Lucius).


A bit of a closeup for the bases.


12-09-2008, 17:01
Back on page 4, I had a few posts and images showing an alternative to salt weathering approach using masking sol on a rhino. I thought I'd show a bit of an update on how the rhinos are progressing.


The Rhino on the right has had some filtering done to it using the oil paints+mineral spirits approach shown back on page 2 or 3 of this thread. It has also had a pin wash with an oil-based wash. The other two rhinos are still awaiting their turn. This was my first try at free-hand painting as well.

The Rhino on the right is still awaiting pigments and some other detail weathering and highlighting. The other rhinos also have some unfinished parts (such as the book on the front of the middle one).

12-09-2008, 17:04
Here is a closeup of the front of the Rhino that has had the filter and the wash.


As you can see, the tracks, the head lights, and the gun still need some work.

12-09-2008, 17:05
For comparison, here is the front of one of the Rhinos that hasn't had the filter or pin wash.


12-09-2008, 19:59
Here is the side and back of the filtered rhino.



12-09-2008, 22:09
And here is the top view of the filtered rhino.


12-09-2008, 22:12
As a comparison, is the top of one of the unfiltered rhinos. As you can see, the paint is still quite smooth and uniform before filtering.


12-09-2008, 23:05
Seriously great work on that rhino. I like the weathering.

13-09-2008, 01:07
Finally, a bit of a close up of the freehand. I tried to maintain some of the weathering so that the faux paint chipping would exist as well on the logo.


13-09-2008, 03:27
I'm kind of sick of those rhinos so I decided to continue my freehand painting experiments. My army will also have three immolators; two are getting close to done as far as base coating is concerned. Before any weathering, I decided to try painting the face of a saint on the back door of each of the immolators. The idea is that one will be Saint Ophelia, one will be Saint Dominicia, and the other Saint Lucius -- in other words, all saints mentioned in the Witchhunter codex.

The idea that I want to achieve is something similar to the look of stained glass in a cathedral, though obviously without the luminosity of true stained glass.

Here is the beginning.


At this point it looks a lot less like stained glass and a lot more like Les Demoiselles d’Avignon painted with crayons :p

13-09-2008, 03:29
Here is what I've got so far. I'm struggling a bit with the eyes.


Better cover this first attempt up with plenty of weathering!

17-09-2008, 23:35
I've finished the weathering for the first rhino. I used a variety of MIG pigments on the tracks and the lower body as well to create a dusted look ontop of the painted areas. I also rubbed an HB pencil on areas where I wanted bare metal.


17-09-2008, 23:39
Here you can see the bare metal effect from the pencil lead on the wheel edges, the wheel nuts, the body edge (on the right side of photo) and some of the raised surfaces of the track.


18-09-2008, 02:59
Here is a side view of the wheels. I tried to get some variance between the wheels through a combination of different oil washes and then different pigments.


18-09-2008, 04:39
Wow, I really like those freehands; they're definitely the highlight of your work. I'd definitely like to see more

19-09-2008, 05:42
Wow, I really like those freehands; they're definitely the highlight of your work. I'd definitely like to see more

Okay :)

Here is my next attempt at freehand on the second immolator in my army.


This one is supposed to be another Sister of Battle saint. The way I've painted her, she looks like she's gone a few rounds against an Ork Nob ...

19-09-2008, 16:03
Here is the front of the same immolator. Each immolator will be named after a different SOB saint.


19-09-2008, 16:05
A side view of the immolator. Each of my three immolators use the Exorcist pieces to represent extra armour.


Of course, its missing the turret, which is still unpainted. As well, I need to finish the blue and purple lights.

19-09-2008, 16:12
And here is a closeup of the stained glass-style saint face painted on the back door. It doesn't look bad from a distance ... like 20 or 30 meters away.


Trying to paint this on the relatively large surface of the a rhino door certainly made me appreciate the insane skill of those painters who paint a face on a space marine shoulder pad!

22-10-2008, 22:17
Have just seen your Sisters for the first time Randy - absolutely splendid work. Your scheme for them is very much like mine, though painted to a far higher standard :(

The weathering on your tanks is great, and the freehand is superb - and very original.

Anything more to see on them?

25-01-2009, 01:46
Anything more to see on them?

Yikes, I can't believe I haven't posted for four months. I guess I should start with some old business, the weathering on the freehand painting.

As a reminder, here is the face before weathering:


And here is the face after weathering:


While it did cover up some of the vibrancy of the original, it did make it fit into the overall look of the tank a bit better.

25-01-2009, 01:54
As well, here is the paint scheme that I ended up with the celestians. I've only finished the basecoat. The armour will be bone, the capes red, and the gun plating will eventually have the same shadow grey colour as the troop sisters.


I want the elite celestians to fit into the overall look of the army but still be identifiably different.

For colour composition comparison, here is a repeat look at the troop sisters:


... and the fast attack dominions:


25-01-2009, 02:00
On the playing side of 40K, I've been experimenting quite a bit with a hybrid list using space marines as the parent list, with sisters as allies. The intention is to make the SM fit into the existing look of my sisters. Here is part of a partially base coated (plus a bit more on the robes) sternguard squad.


The armour will eventually be the same shadow grey as the sisters. I'll also handpaint some type of logo onto the bone shoulder pads. The armour edges and aquila will eventually be gold.

25-01-2009, 02:13
And now for something completely different.

My oldest son is a very good ork player, but he is an indifferent painter, and is quite happy to just use hordes of primered boyz. I've been wanting to experiment a bit with my painting techniques, and decided to use the warboss from the AoBR (or whatever it was called) set as my guinea pig.

The technique that I wanted to use was juices (very very watered down paints) as a way to add subtle colour variation to something. In the picture below, I've used juices of various shades of red to add more interest to the green of the ork's skin around the mouth and the veins of the arm.



I also used juices of various green and brown shades to acheive a verdigris effect on the armour. When I look at the original model with my eyes I'm pretty happy with the effect. But when I look at these pictures I can't see it at all: I guess the brightness of my lights reflecting off the metallics makes it impossible to see.

25-01-2009, 07:31
Alright, I decided to intensify the armour juices and retake the photos with a much slower exposure time.



25-01-2009, 13:33
That Ork boss is a very nice piece. The "juices" really adds to the model, especially his skin.

Good job on both the freehand faces aswell! :]


18-05-2009, 05:04
Been waiting to get new glasses, so I haven't done too much painting lately (eyes are too blurry to paint details). In the meantime, I purchased a new compressor for my air-brush, and have been experimenting a bit with it.

This weekend, I finally got around to painting my baneblade. I used Vallejo Model Air dark yellow for the base coat. Based on a tip I read, I added a drop or two of future floor wax to the mix. The result is a smooth satin finish that I really like. I then added about 50% Sand Yellow (Vallejo Model Air) and added a buff of lighter color to the center of panels and to the top. This added a bit of tonal variation. I also sprayed the tracks, but unfortunately there was a bit of overspray. Next time: use tape.

It was then time for the cameo. I have never painted a cameo. I began my masking the pattern out with non-tack tape.


18-05-2009, 05:11
I then sprayed with Vallejo Model Air Cam. Green. I did a similar lightening spray by adding some tan to the green. I also added the Future floor wax to the green (and then the red).

After the green dried, I masked over most of the green and sprayed a mix of tank brown and hull red. Unfortunately, I missed one or two spots with my tape, and the brown-red showed up in a few places it wasn't wanted.



18-05-2009, 05:20
Using a sponge and some of the original dark yellow, I blotted out a variety of chip marks. The idea is that the cameo would be painted over the original paint, and over time, chips in the cameo would appear, showing the original dark yellow base coat.

I also sponged a variety of grey on the edges and various high traffic areas, to indicates chips in the yellow.


I then airbrushed Model Air Gloss Varnish onto it. This gives the model a base so it can stand up to the weathering process. As well, I will add a few decals, and on a gloss base, the silvering problem will go away.

At any rate, this is a tough step, since it is difficult to tell when or if you have sprayed enough. Worried about varnish pooling, I veered too much to too little. Oh well. I will let it dry for a day and then I can start the heavy duty oil-based filtering and weathering. Of course, there are a number of details (guns, barrels, lights, exhaust tubes) that still need to be painted.

23-09-2009, 03:40
After MIG Filters and oil paint weathering:


Still need to do some weathering to smoke launchers, tracks, and wheels.

23-09-2009, 03:44
To portray fuel leaking from the hose and engine hatches, I combined brown ink, black ink, and future floor wax.