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sigur
07-01-2009, 07:49
Hi guys!

This is my third log now (after my Fantasy (http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54370) and my Sci-Fi (http://warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135759) ones; feel free to have a look). As you can see, I aim to infest all the Project Logs subsections one after another.

Anyway, let's stay on topic. This will only be a minor project compared to the great stuff people showcase in here and in other terrain forums online and we aim to get this done within this week (but we possibly need next week too).

First off, the project group consists of:
.) Mr.Space Marine (who owns a seizable and 70% painted Space Marines force)
.) Mr.Eldar (my brother, used to call himself Polymorph on Warseer, likes his Wraithlords)
.) Sigur (...)

Possibly Mr.Tau and Mr.Space Marine#2 will also drop by once in a while too.


And here is the subject of this log:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/2859138389_e299ca76cf.jpg

Until now, we used to play on the good olde Battlemat but the years have not been kind to it and it looks pretty messed up now. We got a nice deal on the battleboard so we went for it.

Our first impression after opening this nifty CITADEL bag was absolutely positive. This board is sturdy. We didn't do the Large Man Test (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXAtMryS0mI) but we are sure that the board would pass. The detail is alright although I don't know why they didn't make the whole board more detailled (in terms of texture). The skulls are nicely detailed so the rest of the board could be as well.

Anyhoo, after putting the pieces together to see how it looks (awesome), we discussed the overall theme of the board and settled for a "martian desert" theme (we're going to use the board for games of 40k mainly). Kinda like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Orks/bossbasewip1.jpg

[How convenient for me as this is how I base the 40k army I currently have in the works. ;)]

As you can see, it's a simple scheme as we wanted to go for simplicity (more nifty effects can be added with the terrain and the armies themselves), transportability (is that a word at all) and hardiness (thus, static grass was out of question quite soon).

So we decided to go straight on to the work. We got PVA glue mixed with water (must have been a 50/50 ratio or something like that), two big brushes to apply the PVA glue, some smaller brushes for fiddlier stuff and some water to put the brushes into so they won't get all clogged up with PVA glue while we do the sanding.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip1.jpg

Happily, we started applying the glue...

sigur
07-01-2009, 08:01
....and ended up with this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip3doh2.jpg

D'oh.

The glue didn't ahere to the surface because we didn't prime or even wash it. I know it sounds newbie-ish but well, I blame our enthusiasm. Alright, lesson learned.

After washing the glue and the sand off the first test segment of the board, we took some spray primer and did another test board:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip4yay.jpg

Now that's more like it! Primer for the win.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip4.jpg

As you can see, we didn't completely cover the boards in primer because it isn't really necessary. After applying the primer, we went for dinner. Then the sanding started which meant: Apply PVA glue, take the board outside (freezy temperatures), put lots of sand on it, spread out the sand evenly over the glued-up surfaces by shaking the board, repeat four times.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip5.jpg

This is the current state of the board pieces. The glue has dried for a night and this afternoon, we will shake off the exessive sand, prime a bit to finish off the texture and then apply some paint!

I hope you enjoy the log. It's very basic stuff indeed but maybe still entertaining and interesting. Comments and picture requests are very welcome. ;-)

MrInsomniac
07-01-2009, 12:49
It ceetainly is interesting! It's always the simple stuff which I find to be so useful. Can't wait to see how the board progresses.

silverstu
07-01-2009, 20:21
magic! I've been hoping to see someone tackle the new board and it's your good self sigur! Looking forward to seeing you get this baby tarted up.

N810
07-01-2009, 20:47
Looks good after you remembered to use the primer :p
I guess you are going for the rocky desert look. :)

Wolf Scout Ewan
07-01-2009, 22:55
I will be watching with keen interest.

I wouldnt have thought of priming it first. Good call! I have learnt to my own folly (hehe) that sometimes its best notto water PVA down too much. 50/50 is a bit too much imho.

A great start!

What will you be doing about the skulls?

Dino
08-01-2009, 00:46
This is gonna be interesting to see sigur, though if truth be told I think it would have been cheaper if you just scratch build your own for cheaper. Are you gonna paint up terrain to go with it?

sigur
08-01-2009, 07:37
Hey guys, thanks for the replies!

@MrInsomniac: I think this will become a kind of log from which people can learn not to make the same mistakes as we do. ;)

@silverstu: Cheers! I hope we won't mess up too much.

@N810: Indeed. We didn't expect the plastic to be so ....unadherant. :-P Let's just hope we applied enough primer.

@Wolf Scout Ewan: I'm afraid I have to agree with you on the PVA glue thing. The one we applied seems to be too thin in places. The skulls probably will be painted like ...well, skulls but somewhat toned down (= darker) and with a hint of red so they don't look too different to the rest of the board.

@Dino: It definately would have been cheaper. To be honest, I'm not completely convinced by this product when I look at the pricetag. Generally speaking, I wouldn't suggest to buy it over making a board yourself (or even a grass mat). But well, we got a good deal/it was a half-present. We definately are going to do terrain for it too. (to expand on being ready and willing to pay for overcosted GW products...) We have those craters they released some time ago and some other stuff like barricades and some of our own terrain. I think that some stone colums or bigger rocks in general would also be a possibility for the future. Possibly even some other stuff like maybe a small research installation or something.

Right, last night we applied some more primer (to somewhat seal the sand) and used black primer to prime things like rocks and anything that will look different to the sand in the end. Then, we painted the first layer of base colour on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip62.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip61.jpg

....and encountered a new problem. For the first two modules, we used too thin paint and while it worked nicely on the module in the right, it started dissolving the PVA glue (which probably had been too thin itself) and the sand started to run down the module in places as it dried.

There was a similar problem with a second module but it worked OK on the others. Seeing the basecoat applied to the board is a good feeling and gives us an idea what it will look like in the end.

Lessons learned from this session:
.) Too thin (paint or PVA glue) is not good.

Does anyone of you guys have suggestions on how to actually keep the sand on the modules? How (often) do you seal the stuff?

Catferret
08-01-2009, 07:47
To keep sand fixed to stuff, I either apply a layer of 50/50 PVA/water after the sand layer has dried thoroughly. Or you could blast if with spray varnish. Humbrol do some cheap cans of varnish so you don't have to worry about spending a fortune on the amount needed to cover a 6x4 board.

Another trick is to make sure the sand/glue layer is thoroughly dry before painting by attacking it with a hairdrier. Should stop the previous glue running.

Final trick is leave boards flat to dry rather than propped against a wall. ;)

silverstu
08-01-2009, 09:28
I think I read somewhere that people used woodglue to seal sand[watered down a touch] I think because it dries waterproof[hope that helps- basing isn't a strong point of mine- looking for tips myself!]. Even though it's early days the board is shaping nicely.

sigur
08-01-2009, 09:36
@Catferret: Thanks for the advice! The thing about the runny glue was weird. As I wrote earlier, I sprayed the board with Skull White primer, thinking it would seal the sand a bit. But it seems like it rather got soaked up by the sand and made the PVA runny again or whatever. This, plus the too thin paint we used on this board resulted in the unfortunate effect of runny sand.

Also, as soon as we noticed that the sand-PVA-mix on this particular module is runny, we put it on the ground again of course. :p

@silverstu: Yup, I read that too but I'm a lazy bastard. ;) No, we may do a layer of watered-down PVA or varnish next.


A little update: Seems like things are working out better than I thought; the sand sticks to the board everywhere and it doesn't seem to go away any more. ;)

Oh, by the way, does anyone of you have advidce for drybrushing such surfaces? I mean do you use any special thing like...dunno...sponges, those roller frame things or just regular (big) brushes? Thanks.

Wolf Scout Ewan
08-01-2009, 13:04
Sorry to hear about all those sand and pva problems. Thats something I have enver experienced!

As Catferret suggests... leave the board to dry flat and not propped up. I know that its a bit impractical unless you have the space.

silverstu
08-01-2009, 18:48
I'm a lazy bastard. ;) .

I thought I was the only one...:p
I reckon drybrushing with a large brush would be the trick- don't think rollers or a sponge would give the desired effect.

N810
08-01-2009, 19:09
Actualy painting it with one of those natural sponge rollers in a sllightly lighter color,
(between your base and drybrussh color) might look prety good without a lot of effort. :D

oh
and then drybrush it with a big house painting brush...

ps. one of these things
http://www.asktooltalk.com/store/ccp0-prodshow/HD-10915.html

krieg
08-01-2009, 20:07
the last lot of boards i made i drybrushed with a tank brush, more time consuming, but cuts down the risk of making errors with a bigger brush

Lithian
09-01-2009, 20:29
Hey sigur, great start! Iíve always been a lurker-fan on you Skull Pass log, so Iím really looking forward to this project. :D

That being said, Iíll never use sand for a board again. You can get almost identical results from a spray prime, spray texture paint, spray prime again, and then hand highlighting. Weighs a whole lot less too, with less wear & tear on your minis. I only use sand and gravel for detail pieces (like the based example you already posted.) :)

Malakai
09-01-2009, 23:27
I think I read somewhere that people used woodglue to seal sand[watered down a touch] I think because it dries waterproof[hope that helps- basing isn't a strong point of mine- looking for tips myself!]. Even though it's early days the board is shaping nicely.

Yeah Sigur, I use wood glue on everything I base in sand for just that reason.

Looks good so far man, can't wait to see it finished!

Edit: And as to your question about brushes I have one tip for you. Stay away from synthetic brushes. I just ponied up for a whole set to work on my terrain and was very dissapointed with them.

Synthetic bristles are too rigid to properly drybrush.

sigur
10-01-2009, 01:11
Reet, update time! But first off, thanks for your comments guys.

@Wolf Scout Ewan: Yeah, as I wrote earlier, we immediately layed it back flat onto the ground once we noticed the runny surface. It's not like we sat in front of it, watching grudgingly how the sand and glue ran off the board. ;-) It really wasn't that big a problem. Happened only on this one section of the board and dried up properly again (of course we removed the "blobs" of sand and glue).

@silverstu: We'll probably go with big brushes.

@N810: I'll see if I can get one of those rollers.

@krieg: Well, on the big surfaces the big brushes will do, around the edges and where the sand meets rocks, we'll use smaller ones.

@Lithian: Thanks a lot. It's nice that I still get such positive feedback on my BfSP project. :) What you're saying about sand might make sense. I mean I won't scrub it all off the boards but you might be right. Never worked with texturing sprays. Do they give you a texture as crisp and strong as sand?

@Malakai: Thanks for the reply and suggestion concerning synthetic brushes, I'll stay away from them.

Alrighty, tonight I learned two more things:

1.) If you mix your colours, always do a full working step one time. For documentation, see this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip63.jpg

I gave the lower left board pieces another coat of paint last night and today we painted the other ones. You'd never have guessed, right?

2.) Never ever prime any pieces of terrain white if you apply sand later. You drybrush over it, single grains of sand come off, leaving bright holes of white on your surface. Annoying.

Some more pictures of what the board looks like now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip64.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip65.jpg

Other than that, I started painting some barricades and craters to go with the board.. Comments and critique are welcome as always, see you soon!

Dino
10-01-2009, 01:30
Looking good. But black is seriously a better primer to use for primming terrain. Hope to see the finished barricades soon.

mrtn
10-01-2009, 12:34
Why are the stones a different colour than the sand? That implies that all the sand have blown there from somewhere else, and not a single bit of it is from the local ground. I'd have used rocks of the same colour as the sand.

Nephilim of Sin
11-01-2009, 10:51
Sigur has a new log and I was not informed?! :mad:

Well, crap. Seems like you have picked up most of my tips on your own, so I won't be of any help. However, I will say this is a cool effort, and is nice to see someone gullible willing to buy the battle board!

A few things I would have said: Don't drybrush, don't overbrush, go a step inbetween, and keep some really thinned down paint to wash over. In a few parts, the paint would get 'clumpy' or 'streaky', but the washes would take care of that (by wash, for a project this size, a full bottle of say, Scorched Brown emptied into a lot of water to retain an essence of the color).

Conversely (and even using the above method for ease), you could have bought some similar colors you wanted in spray, then 'mist' the board after the basecoat, which would also help seal in the sand somewhat. A few washes would have helped keep the colors as you wanted.

Also, the off colors you have are not necessarily a bad thing: as this is not a unit of bases, colors would vary completely over such a large battlefield (something which GW fails to realize, IMO). I think it actually helps to make it look more natural.

Alright, long post concluded. Things are looking up, although as Mrtn pointed out, you may have a rock issue, but personally I think that actually looks better to provide contrast as opposed to a static, six foot blob. Keep up the good work!

Lithian
12-01-2009, 17:53
Never worked with texturing sprays. Do they give you a texture as crisp and strong as sand?

You can tell itís not sand, but itís very similar and aesthetically pleasing. It has enough texture to take dry brushing really well. You can build up the texture with several coats too, about two to three hours between coats. Once you put another prime over the texture coat, and then Iíve been hand painting over that, itís extremely durable.

I did some desert pieces where I glued some lava rocks to a base, anchored them down with hot glue, and this builds up the base as well, primed, add detail gravel, texture painted the whole thing, primed again, then finished off with hand painting and dry brushing. When you get going it is pretty fast (sans drying time) because itís mostly spray painting with just a little bush work to make it look nice.

Oh yeah, your board is looking good! Just mix bigger batches next time! :D ;)

NealSmith
12-01-2009, 18:46
Does anyone of you guys have suggestions on how to actually keep the sand on the modules? How (often) do you seal the stuff?


I'm coming to this late, but here is my advice.

- Good layer of primer (cheap black spray paint)
- Glop on a heavy layer of "ground" paint (get the cheap stuff from the "paint returns" area in your DIY store. It's usually very good paint and it's cheap! Usually a suitable mix of colors to choose from...)
- Spread the sand out.

This usually does well for a ground base. You can also re-enforce it with the PVA/water mixture on top. If you have a "pile of sand" or rocks you want to build up, use an old model railroading trick. Use an eye-dropper to saturate the pile of rocks, etc. with a mix of water/rubbing alcohol. Then saturate the pile with the water/PVA mix. This breaks the surface tension of the water and keeps it from sweeping your rock pile away in the flood of water/PVA glue! :)

sigur
12-01-2009, 19:52
Thanks for all the kind and helpful replies!

@Dino: Work on the barricades is going well. You shall see them in the next update (= as soon as I recharged the cam's battery).

@mrtn: This shows that you have NO idea of geology. 4 out of 10 planets which are covered in red sand have grey rocks underneath. That's because of....erm..the global warming. Universal warming. Yes. Erm.

Seriously, I heard this complaint from some people now and yes, the rocks should get a bit redder. I think I reduced the problem a bit by now but I still think I'll have to chgange the colour of the rocks a little.


@Nephilim of Sin: Geez, my prime stalker got me again. ;-) Thanks for all the advice. Looking back, I think I should have done quite a lot of things differently. I consider doing this thing with the wash though. Concerning my "rock issue" (good word creation!), I'll try to make the rocks fit better but still keeping the contrast. Thanks for dropping by and posting!

@Lithian: Daaaamn, this texture spray approach sounds intriguing (...he wrote with 200kilos of sand and rubble on his hands and the floor around him...). Well, damn.

@NealSmith: Wow, thanks for all that advice! I especially liked the one with the rocks (I have a rock issue, you know ;-) ). Keep them coming, guys!

Alright, just as a little teaser for the upcoming update. There you will find:
.) NEW and DRYBRUSHED board surface!
.) Neatened-up details around the rocks!
.) ABOUT the same colour all across the board!
.) DRYBRUSHED craters (plastic) and barricades (resin)!
.) A genuine sigur rantô about how annoying it is to put the board pieces together with those little plastic...things!
.) More sand* than before!


Don't miss out on this first major event of 2009!




*may contain nuts

StormCrow
12-01-2009, 20:40
.) A genuine sigur rantô about how annoying it is to put the board pieces together with those little plastic...things!


If you hadn't trademarked it i would be ranting like crazy. Those plastic...things are so useless it befuddles me. It's interesting to see your approach with the board, so far our group has only primed our board black.

sigur
12-01-2009, 21:40
@Stormcrow: I absolutely agree with you about those plastic thingies. It's a darned pain trying to fit everything together, especially on the elevated parts. "What were they thinking!?" Honestly, I spent at least 20-30 minutes trying to put the board together neatly. Good to see that I'm not a complete ***** and other people have problems with this too.

By the way, your approach to this board is already better than ours. ;)


Anyway, without much further ado (that's what the last posting was for), here are some pictures:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/wip71.jpg

The current state of the board. As you can see, the red has been toned down massively with three "layers" of drybrushing. Now the rocks don't look as off as they used to but I think I still need to do a bit about that. Not sure, I'll ask the group about that.

Now for some pictures of the barricades and ruined walls:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/ruinswip1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/barricadeswip1.jpg

Nothing special really. The main reason why I show you these is because I think that not too many people get those and see them close-up. At least I believe that these aren't really worth the money. Especially barricades made from rubble and random stuff can easily be home-made. The trashed SM bike is a cute touch though. I'm one of those people who'd rather keep a model in the bitz box if I have no use for it rather than cutting it up and using it for terrain so I'd never do such a thing. The ruin walls are nicely detailed but still, not really worth the price unless you really have no time to do terrain yourself and are well-paid.

No closeups of the moon craters yet although I think that these are much better value for their money as you get five big pieces of okay-detailed terrain for less than 10 pounds.

Anyhoo, finally the thing is starting to take shape. Now that I see the pieces together I spot things I need to drybrush again. Next steps will be neatening up the rocks and places where rocks and sand meet. Then it's skull time!

Wolf Scout Ewan
12-01-2009, 22:01
I really like the Martian Dust colour you got going on.

NealSmith
13-01-2009, 13:01
This is looking very nice. I actually like the "gray bedrock" effect you have going on. Those barricades are looking nice too. Want to do mine for me? :)

Keep up the good work!

nutter862
14-01-2009, 07:38
i do like those GW game boards and you have done them very well. i wish i could afford those boards. bu

but thanks for the pictures this give me some great ideas for the future.

nutter862

StormCrow
14-01-2009, 09:39
With the drybrushing the board is looking fantastic. I agree that the grey bedrock looks better now, it breaks up the board nicely. Maybe some dead grass in the cracks to tie the colours together? Anyway good to see your progress (our's is STILL black)

silverstu
14-01-2009, 12:05
looking good- the softened red is working really nicely and I love the contrast with the bedrock. I really like the barricades- have them myself- must actually get round to finishing them..
Oh and I was wondering could you put a mini on the board for scale- sometimes it's easy to forget how flippin' big the board is! But looking great mate what's next for the project?

Lithian
14-01-2009, 13:37
Wow! What a great turnaround! :cool:

If you didnít want to mess with the tabs, you could make a frame or tray to set the panels in, although that kind of defeats the whole portable aspect (unless itís for home use only!) :D

Looking forward to more!

NealSmith
14-01-2009, 14:03
If you didn’t want to mess with the tabs, you could make a frame or tray to set the panels in, although that kind of defeats the whole portable aspect (unless it’s for home use only!) :D


Just a quick thought here...

You could build 4 small "corners" of a frame (picture frame corners?) and connect them using wire and those turnbuckle thingies... It would be portable at least.

Turnbuckle - http://www.stanleyhardware.com/default.asp?TYPE=CATEGORY&CATEGORY=HDW+EYE+WITH+EYE+TBUCKLE

It might work... :)

Daniel36
14-01-2009, 15:12
Hey guys, thanks for the replies!
Does anyone of you guys have suggestions on how to actually keep the sand on the modules? How (often) do you seal the stuff?

Maybe a little later but well... We throw the sand in our basecoat color. That way it's sealed...

The board is looking amazing!! I did a similar board two weeks ago, martian theme. Mine is more dark brown/red though.

It's good to finally see what can be done with these gaming boards, other than the standard GW pictures. Thanks a lot for sharing!

sigur
14-01-2009, 19:47
@Wolf Scout Ewan: Cheers. As I wrote earlier, it's mainly a practical thing as we didn't want static grass all over the place.

@NealSmith: My, what an intriguing offer ...NOT. :p Do your barricades yourself! It gives you amazing creative possibilities (in the choice of the colour on the SM bike at least).

@nutter862: Cheers. If you google a bit you surely can find how to do great gaming boards for much less money.

@StormCrow: Geez, get to work already!;) Thanks for the suggestion on how to tie the colours together.

@silverstu: Thanks for asking for a scale comparison shot (I was afraidnobody would ask)...well, I did an army shot of my currently-in-the-works Orks army.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Orks/armyshotneu3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Orks/armyshotneu2.jpg

Note that this is only two thirds of the board. But yes, it's big. You can check out my 40k log (http://warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135759&page=17)for more pictures of the army.


@Lithian: Thanks for the suggestion. We had something like that in mind. Like having a foldable wooden board with some kind of frame to hold the RoB and four somehow attachable legs to have a portable gaming table (which we don't have at the moment).

@NealSmith: That's an interesting and quite clever idea. We might give that one a try.

@Daniel36: Doesn't sound too bad actually but I always fear that the sand comes off too easily if only the paint attaches it to the board. Do you happen to have pictures of the board you did two weeks ago? What colour did you do the rocks? Did you use anything apart from sand? (like dead static grass or something) Cheers, I hoped it would be interesting for people to see what this thing really looks like and what a bunch of people who normally don't do much terrain make of it. ;-)

Kaos
14-01-2009, 20:08
Very neat job Sigur. I must say it doesnt look bad, this new table from GW.

Whats next?

N810
14-01-2009, 22:01
Yea that looks a lot better :D

NealSmith
14-01-2009, 23:29
Very nice indeed!

Wolf Scout Ewan
15-01-2009, 00:37
Wanna do us a tut on how to do the martian dust?

I think its looks ace!

Daniel36
15-01-2009, 10:25
[QUOTE=sigur;3203213
@Daniel36: Doesn't sound too bad actually but I always fear that the sand comes off too easily if only the paint attaches it to the board. Do you happen to have pictures of the board you did two weeks ago? What colour did you do the rocks? Did you use anything apart from sand? (like dead static grass or something) Cheers, I hoped it would be interesting for people to see what this thing really looks like and what a bunch of people who normally don't do much terrain make of it. ;-)[/QUOTE]

Hey Sigur,

If you go to our club's Cities of Death project log (check my sig), and take a close peak at all the modular sections, you will see what happens when you throw bird sand (the stuff that smells like aniseed) in your basecoat paint.

Now, on these boards, we don't throw too much in it, otherwise your paint will just stick to the brush and not go off. If you keep it at a minimum though, it works wonders! I guess it gives the same texture as these boards you're working on. Maybe a little less.

You should especially take a close look at the road sections. Those have all been done that way, with a black undercoat mixed with bird sand, then drybrushed with Codex and Fortress Grey.

The sand doesn't go off even if you wanted it too! It's rock hard and VERY durable. I haven't had to repair anything yet, even if I forcefully rub it.
(Rub... Go off... It's starting to sound wrong)

I didn't however use this method on my Martian board. That particular method wasn't as succesful though... But it's playable nonetheless. I don't have pics of it just yet, but it's going to be used for the first time this Friday, and I am sure pictures are going to be taken, so I will notify you when I have it on one of my logs. Looking at your boards again, my highlights aren't as refined though, so don't expect much of it.

Anyhoo, thanks for showing us a pic with forces on it. Always my favourite type of picture to look at!

Cheers.

sigur
18-01-2009, 23:42
@Kaos: Well, I'm still working on the board, the barricades and the craters so there's plenty of stuff to do. Apart from that, I'll have to leave for London again in less than a week and I strongly doubt that I'll do any terrain there.

@Wolf Scout Evan: Sure, with pleasure. Erm, i guess you only need a recipe for the colour so there you go:
The base colour is a water-based colour of a very high pigment density that is made for changing the colour of wall paint I think. It's really thick and you should be able to get it at any bigger hardware or paint store. We used this one Genius Pro Effects AbtŲncolor Ambiente (schokobraun) (http://www.genius-pro.com/media/de/produkte/pro_amb_effects_abtoenfarbe.jpg) but I doubt they sell it in the UK or the US and it doesn't really matter. Anyway, the colour we used was chocolate brown which looks a bit like a 60/40 mix of Scorched Brown/Graveyard Earth. (we had to water it down quite a bit and 0,5 litres is enough to finish the board comfortably).

This was mixed with a hint of Blood Red for the reddish tone. This was applied as a basecoat several times.

For the drybrushing stages, I did lots of more or less random mixing and experimenting. The first stage of drybrush was the base colour plus quite a bit of Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Brown. Then I left out the Khaki Brown and went for VMC Ice Yellow instead because I didn't get the colour to be bright enough. For the later drybrush stages, I gradually added Ice Yellow, added Graveyard Earth when it got too bright (or too yellow-ish), etc.
That's it really.

@Daniel36: Hmm, that's a lot of interesting advice and tips there, thanks. Remind me to ask you first before I commence any new terrain project. ;-)


Alright, a little update on those barricades:

side 1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/barricades2.jpg

side2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/barricades1.jpg

broken screen detail
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/barricades3.jpg

I'm not sure if you can spot it but there is a Space Marines bike hidden in there. :p I'm not quite sure on the colourscheme yet. I guess it would be appropriate to use Mr.Space Marine's chapter scheme but I'm not too sure what it actually looks like. Blame my lousy memory.

Or does anyone of you have suggestions on how to paint the bike?

Catferret
19-01-2009, 01:49
Awesome! I'm loving the smashed monitor. Looks aces.

Daniel36
19-01-2009, 13:22
[QUOTE=sigur;3203213

@Daniel36: Doesn't sound too bad actually but I always fear that the sand comes off too easily if only the paint attaches it to the board. Do you happen to have pictures of the board you did two weeks ago? What colour did you do the rocks? Did you use anything apart from sand? (like dead static grass or something) Cheers, I hoped it would be interesting for people to see what this thing really looks like and what a bunch of people who normally don't do much terrain make of it. ;-)[/QUOTE]

As a matter of fact I do!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/bretonniaholland/40k%20toernooi2009/DSC_0580.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/bretonniaholland/40k%20toernooi2009/DSC_0561.jpg

Unfortunately, in different light it looks rather black. I was going to redo it anyways. For this we used textured paint, the kind you slap on walls. Excellent for creating snowtables, though not so excellent for anything else. It chips like a madman (Do madmen chip?), leaving a ton of white little dots on the table.

What I was aiming for is shown better on the little tree base, which is far lighter, with more reds and yellows.

Now on to YOUR update! The attack bike looks ace but the smashed screen is seriously out of this world awesome! I am a sucker for the small details, and this is by far one of my favourite small details! Kudos!

Wolf Scout Ewan
19-01-2009, 15:46
Blimey that does sound complicated! Hmmm. I may have to try it myself at some point.

Cracked monitor looks brill good job!

Tommygun
20-01-2009, 11:07
Ouch! Broken plasma screen. At least it wasn't a 50 inch screen.
I want your painting skills Sigur.

Malakai
21-01-2009, 04:42
Lovely barricades Sigur!

silverstu
22-01-2009, 08:57
Wow! barricades look awesome! Especially love the smashed monitor.

sigur
22-01-2009, 20:01
@Daniel36: Looks very nice and thanks for all the advice concerning this chipping madman of a textured paint! ;)

@Wolf Scout Ewan: Cheers! First I thought of just painting it greenish but then I thought it would fit the overall scenery if the screen was broken.

@Tommygun: Nevermind, it was just one of those quite useless screens that are slapped on the walls to make stuff look sci-fi. All it did was display the current time on Terra. Of course I won't give you a bit of my painting prowess but I wouldn't mind having some of your converting skills.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/ruins1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/ruins2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/Lexandro/Terrain/ruins3.jpg


Well, I'm glad that you like the cracked monitor. Here's some new pictures.

The bike is finished and there was some additional drybrushing and inking on the barricades overall. I think I'll call the job finished now. Apart from that pedal on the SM Bike I just noticed. Damn.

N810
22-01-2009, 21:12
Those are some Nicely painted barriers Sigur. :D

NealSmith
22-01-2009, 23:03
I think I'll call the job finished now. Apart from that pedal on the SM Bike I just noticed. Damn.

Isn't it amazing what you notice when you take pics of your minis? I find stuff like this all the time after I take pics of them.

Well Done!

Lithian
23-01-2009, 13:23
Looks great! :cool:

I'm glad you dirtied up the bike a little bit, it was looking a little too brand new before! :D

Oh, and I went and checked out your ork thread, very cool. :)

sigur
30-01-2009, 17:56
Well, the project has to be put to rest for at least half a year now. There is no terrain to do for me where I am now.:p Time to focus on other things. Green things, that is.

Thanks a lot for your support guys!

Tommygun
27-02-2009, 22:41
Well, the project has to be put to rest for at least half a year now. There is no terrain to do for me where I am now.:p

Prison or college?