PDA

View Full Version : Nightgoblin question



Herod
05-04-2009, 17:50
Hi all,

I am in the process of putting togther a Night Goblin heavy army. The question I had is how to best rank up units of Night Goblins.

I plan on units of 35-36 (but am open to suggestions). I am leaning towards 6x6 blocks of 36 (or 35 w/ character).

I have not decided whether to go with HW+shield, or spears.

If I do hw+shield, I was thinking that 5 across by 7 deep might be better because the point would be to preserve ranks as long as possible. With spears I thought maybe 7 across and 5 deep would be best. THEN I figured 6x6 would be a good compromise, and I could change facing easier. argh.

Ineed to make a lot of movement trays, so what does everyone (or anyone) else think? Thanks in advance.

H

RossS
05-04-2009, 18:34
I don't generally give my Night Goblins spears. I prefer either hand weapons and shields or short bows. Spears do improve the fighting potential of Night Goblins against truly miserable opponents, like zombies, but against most anything with a pulse the Night Goblins suffer higher losses for little discernable benefit. There is, as most players observe, a big differrece between a 5+ save and a 6+ save.

Heavily armored and/or proficient adversaries seem to slash through them with even greater ease than usual. The hand weapon and shield combo just emphasizes, for me, what is the role of Night Goblins; they hold things up for a turn or two while Orcs or other goblins get in a position to overwhelm the enemy with superior numbers.

I think the 5 wide and 7 deep formation is ideal for this kind of thing, although it does make the unit vulnerable to flanking and altogether less maneuverable. But who cares? Goblins aren't supposed to be maneuvering. They are the Warhammer equivalent of the levee en masse armies of the French Revolution.

If you do elect to arm your gobbos with spears, I think the 6x6 setup would be ideal.

Braad
05-04-2009, 19:44
I run my blocks in 6x5, 30 strong. I think more than that is just a bit overdoing stuff, less means you loose ranks too easy.

Spears are slightly better than hand weapon and shield, if you ask me. However, they are also a point per model, which adds up for units of 30+... costwise, I got the feeling hand weapon and shield is better, especially on the larger units. Mixing it up a bit, like 1 unit with hand weapons, 1 unit with shields could be nice, as it gives you some options. Just keep in mind that a unit with spears can also use hand weapons if they need to. It's just a matter of if you are willing to pay that point or not.

Quick, cheap and easy way to make movement trays: plasticard sheets (2mm works great) and edges made from the outer rim of your leftover sprues...

dijit80
05-04-2009, 19:46
Go for shields and handweapons. Minimise contact (ie 5 columns) so that you effectively minimise the incoming attacks and maximise the effect of your CR.

scolex
05-04-2009, 20:04
I'd say keep your main units 35-36 (ranked 5x7 or 6x6), and go with Hand Weapons, Shields, and Full Command.

A big fighty unit for 2k+ games should probably be 44-48 gobs with a big boss/warboss (ranked 5x9 or 7x7).

Small support units meant entirely for flank charges should probably be 20 (5x4) with a musician.

Keep Bows, Spears, and Nets rare. Use the Nets to protect a character only, as they won't make up their points protecting 3 point Goblins. Ditch the bows if you find you don't face large targets ,and don't have hills to stand them on. I would actually say avoid Spears completely.

dwarfhold13
05-04-2009, 23:51
i have a friend of mine with an all night goblin army.. i think he's got something like 4 bolt throwers in it and a giant.. but really not much other than just a boat load of goblins with hand weapons and shields.. he runs them in either 5x5 or 5x6 just to get max combat res... of course nets and lots of fanatics.. its a pain in the butt for a shooty army.. but if you get one unit to panic.. chances are good that everything else might run with it.. thats the only drawback of the list.. but its funny to put on the table
Jon

Herod
06-04-2009, 02:12
Thanks all, some good info there!

H

Tag
08-04-2009, 04:20
Quick, cheap and easy way to make movement trays: plasticard sheets (2mm works great) and edges made from the outer rim of your leftover sprues...

I just use cardboard for my ones rather than plasticard. I suppose plasticard warps less or is it just for the better durability of it?

Braad
08-04-2009, 07:33
Plasticard can be painted as well and in the same schemes as the bases on it, indeed it doesn't warp if handled correctly, easily cut to size, and just looks so much better and more professional...

In my blog, page 6, I gave a tutorial how I make mine, if anyone is interested: http://warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142576&page=6
Takes me at most half an hour to make one, exluding basecoating.

Tag
08-04-2009, 10:07
Thanks heaps for the tutorial, that's a great way to do it with the gaps for ranking and it looks amazing.

Urgat
08-04-2009, 12:50
Well, I could never find sprues I could use for biulding movement trays, so I've found another solution:
I use cardboard (this can be painted too, btw, why not?) and for the edges, I use chopsticks :p It's cheap as hell, and not too hard to do:
http://warseer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2733135&postcount=123
They're also tough as hell, btw.

Anyway, I ran my gobs 6*5 too, and I use hand weapons. I do believe spears would be useful in many situations, in fact, but if I bought spears for my gobs, for the same price, I'd have to cut 1/4 of my gobs from my list... and I don't believe it's worth it.

Briohmar
08-04-2009, 12:57
Another cheap option for movement trays is CD cases. the clear plastic CD case is nearly optimal for either a 20 strong unit of orcs or a 30 strong unit of goblins. All you have to do is break off the four little tabs that are there to hold the insert, and if you so desire, spray paint it black.

Herod
08-04-2009, 14:45
This thread delivers!

H

rtunian
08-04-2009, 15:18
i used exelon floor tiles. dirt cheap at $0.66 apiece at menards for 12"x12" tiles. come in many colors, one side is kind of glossy, but the other side can be painted and grass glued on. very easy to cut with a razor blade (score it two or three times and then just snap it off)

i bought 8 tiles, cut up only 4, and that made about 25 trays, in a wide variety of sizes for both 20 and 25mm (5x4s, 5x5s, 5x6s, 5x7s, 6x6s, 6x7s, 5x2)