For some reason the
double-ended taper has a finer point than the corresponding regular size 0 taper. At least that's the case with the few I have.
Otherwise, looks like I'm preaching to the choir! Although, ever thought of an optivisor...?
I have the larger sized tapers which seem even usable for 15mm, tried on 10mm on "rough" up sculpts of a couple of Dwarfs yesterday and note useful at all. lol
Will have to invest in the smaller "detail" ones me thinks!
I was actually wondering what those were (Optivisor) after seeing a few images of master sculptors using them.
Personally I think I'd work slower using one and a tad pricey considering I'm not as of yet thinking of making a career out of sculpting.
Also, I somehow have a very very good vision and manage very tiny details without one. So not wanting to mix up my methods of sculpting with any devices yet.
Maybe in the future I'll get tempted.
I meant 10mm too - I have a wee Warmaster HE army myself, among other bits and pieces.

(I should probably go measure some of them for you) For all their other faults I think GW did some of the most elegant, good-looking 10mms on the market, especially the Bo5A plastics. (Although they had the advantage of 3-ups)
I don't think I noticed that person doing 6mm here. Do you have a link?
Oh I clicked on the link Samsonov posted a few posts above.

I have to admit, GW have done a very good job in a 10mm scale attempt, just a shame the spear tips often bent/broke easily that it would be difficult to create in plastic/resin without breaking becoming even more common.
Oh and measuring even just any warrior top of head to bottom of boot would be awesome if possible. (I used to have a regiment of Dwarf warriors, High elf spearmen, Skeleton warriors before I passed them on to a friend) Also checked the web and not found any useful way of finding an exact scale to replicate. :P
So the help would be very well appreciated.
Especially since I've done 3 very rough looking warriors (not finished) to be scaled off and practice. Along with a slightly shorter one that looks much better, looks like an ironbreaker with two handed hammer, a Dwarf super unit? lol
I currently only have my iphone or my gf's ipad to take pics from to show you, but tbh the camera can't zoom enough to get any decent pic.
May put the "best" image I can get as a means of showing how he looks at least later tomorrow when I get home.
Along with my most complete 15mm Space marine.
I use a bit of milliput myself, especially for cores and underlayers.

And I almost always use it with at least a bit of GS mixed into it.

You should give it a try soon. Greenstuff has it's little idiosyncracies that can sometimes cause problems, but they also make it probably the best putty for mixing with others; especially hard-curing, claylike types like milliput. I love that kind of mix for general sculpting, meself. Currently I'm using a GS/apoxie sculpt mix for things. The elastic, chewing-gum texture of the GS helps bind together the soft, 'crumbly' claylike putties, while they soften and loosen the memory and sometimes-stiffness of GS. Kinda the best of both worlds.
I probably don't have to tell you milliput can be sort of... aggressive.

I've found it can dominate mixes, more so than others. You'd probably only need fairly little if you just want to loosen up GS a little, but more GS if you want to firm up some milliput.
Hope that's more help than waffle! In any case I'm looking forward to see your results.