Mars Axis Pattern Storm Chimera Tutorial

[Chartist Captain]

A couple days ago I tried redesigning my half track chimeras and it came out pretty good. I was able to repeat the process 2 more times and take pictures along the way to try to help any who might be interested in giving it a try. DISCLAIMER: I am not a precision builder and my methods probably don't make much sense. I did try to give good measurements. Worst case use my pics as a guide and feel free to depart from the instructions as you see fit, my magos has fulfilled his quota requirements and doesn't give a damn. The plastic card I use is 0.030 I wouldn't go thinner, as it help gives the model a lot of its structural support.I use loctite super glue, it holds and dries fast for my needs but I can break it when I mess up (I've tear things apart and rebuild them a lot!) The fumes can melt your contacts FYI.

Dimensions: extreme length 5.5", width 2.75", height to hull top (not gun shield) 2".

These are all the pieces you will need for the base hull. The OOP rear hatch isnt necessary, I just use it because I like to have the door open and close. The OOP track wheels are pretty important, trying other tracks might effect the scale alignment of these plans. Those are wheels from the ridge runner, you only need halves.


Cut the back of the forward hull off.


Now make the forward hull flush.





Prep the bottom hull.





Make 2x overhead supports with the rod.

[Chartist Captain]

Prep top hull.




Assembling top hull.



Cut the back supports down, the bottom gets in the way of the V-hull but the part I left makes for a good place to glue gear if you want an interior.


The rod supports help make sure you got the right angle for the forward hull, its steeper than standard.


Track wheels, 2" from center to center.

[Chartist Captain]

Top hull extension. These pieces widen out the top to get the V shape. 4"x3/16" They are intentionally long and will be cut to size later. !MAKE SURE YOU HAVE OVERLAP ON THE REAR AND FRONT TO GET THE RIGHT ANGLES!



Hood piece. Its 2" wide and 1-1/2" long.

ATTENTION: Put the hood a little higher than I did in this pic. Put in on the lower rivets of the hull gun mount. I had to fix mine at the end.


Side armor.




Trimming armor. Just got to eyeball it!

[Chartist Captain]

Top rear hull extension. Just cut a strip 7/16" wide and eyeball with with the lines on the GW piece.



Tapper rear side armor. Line runs from the end of the top to the end of the hull floor plate.


Capping the front hull. Just hold a bit of scrap to the face and trace the back side.





Track support. Put some rod just under the height of the treads, helps attach the tracks at the right level and keep them aligned.

[Chartist Captain]

Track guards. I am blessed with bits but this build takes a lot of precious track guards. I was able to reduce the amount needed by 1 by doing the following.




Cut a medium length guard in half.

[Chartist Captain]

Front hood.
1/4 "wide and 1" long


Eyeball it.


Same for lower part but a little wider.


Side of hood (this kind of sucks) and will take some trial and error patience. Try to trace the angle of the front hull and the forward hood plate. The back end is 3/8" wide but may tapper slightly towards the front.




Same for the lower half, it doesn't need to go as far back as it will get in the way of the wheels.

[Chartist Captain]

Wheels



I used some rod to provide extra support from the hull to the engine compartment.


Wheel guards

This part is the worst part of the whole build IMO, probably a better way but I had come too far by the time got to it. You have to go back and cut a seam to slip the wheel guard in. If you cut too much you can go back and fill it in later. When you place it, check that it is inline with the rear track guards. I have mine resting in contact with the top of the tire, it cant be seen and provides level support.


Rear I haven't attached the rear yet because I want to add interior and paint it. Press some sheet against the rear and trace it.

The gap is what I cover later with some cool looking downward sloping plate.

[Chartist Captain]

The base of the vehicle is done, time to kit it up for combat.
These are the bits I used to rig it out.


Col. Jacka sent me some engine filters he wasn't using a while back but I know not everyone is as fortunate to have these precious pieces sitting around. As an alternative you can use the leeman russ turret side armor plates to create an engine access hatch, you can even put two pieces of round rod on each side to make it look like hinges.



Shove a vox caster up the back corner las gun port, its not as bulky or prone to breaking as the standard com package, also other than for looks, who uses the vox on their infantry anyway!


Side stowage compartments.



Rear stubber mount using the leeman russ mantel as a gun shield.


Auto cannon mount using side sponson pieces


This is how the troops reach their guns.
The stubber has a fake firing step that looks like its actually attached when in the chimera.

The auto cannon gunner has a small firing platform It was the simplest and least disruptive way to do it.

[Chartist Captain]

Level gunners!


Minor interior detailing. Drive seat with a few control levers and bench seating.


FINISHED! except for paint... (Im waiting on more crewmen and a set of wheels for the last one)

[Chartist Captain]

Here's the fleet fully operational. If you are able to use this tutorial please post pics of the results!

[Leadmill]

Very Impressive

[Captain Brown]

That is quite the tutorial Chartist Captain.

Cheers,

CB

[Codsticker]

I missed this Chartist; very extensive re-build. It's basically a new vehicle- great tutorial.

[Chartist Captain]

Many thanks! Its kind of fun disassembling the GW kits and piecing together the vehicles they used parts of for inspiration and using their bits help keep it tied together in 40k scale. I must say the 3rd party guys (ratgard, models&minis, blood&skulls,mortian) all make some fine kits I probably would have went with had they been around when I started. The 3d printing is making some cool stuff too thats probably much easier/efficient than my route.